It seems his trouble is with the seating. Try setting your dies up with the Hornady bullit, no crimp. As all bullits are seated off the ogive, and they are different. I know my method of determining OAL is not the best, but it'll do in a pinch. If you got 2.444 then your 2.350 should chamber easily. If you set your dies for the Sierra bullits first and then used the same setting for the Hornady, I would think that would cause you problems. Probably because of a different ogive, you are squatting the case.
Difficulty closing bolt on 22-250 with reloads
- Thread starter black alder
- Start date
Hello GanderIf he's using two different bullits but with the same FL brass, and only one type won't chamber. Wouldn't that be a bullit problem only? Or is it possible that he's setting his dies for the Sierra bullit and then using the same die setting for the Hornady bullits, thereby causing his problem?
I said "....either the shoulder has not been sized back far enough, or the bullet is too long and hitting the chamber throat."
The latter is the bullet out too far, as you suggest.
As i re-red the issue and think about it, I think the problem is most likely his seating die is turned in one rev too far.
back off the seating die body one full turn, and then re-adjust the seating stem for the same OAL. I think you were crimping and causing a bulge.
Huh?? - The possible crimping issue is due to setting the seating die too tight to the case, not the bullet - reread Ganderites post.
why is the Sierra cartridge clambering fine and not the Hornady? He said he was using identical cases. What I'm saying is, shouldn't you have to reset your dies for each brand of bullit? As the bullits seat off the ogives and not the tip. Im just trying to learn as well
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Assuming it is a crimp issue, there are several reasons why one bullet may be problematic and another not.
1) The crimp offered by the seating die is meant to work on cannelured bullets only.
2) A given bullet may have a slightly larger OD at the crimp, or harder bearing surface.
Anyway, a bulge created by a crimp should be very obvious. The remedy is to eliminate the crimping action of the die - see post #22.
My understanding is that the OP has adjusted the seating screw to get the spec OAL with the offending bullet.(see post #1) By incrementally increasing the seating depth he should be able to determine if he has a land interference problem very quickly. It appears that he has made this partial determination already (see post #7), lets not confuse this lad any more.
1) The crimp offered by the seating die is meant to work on cannelured bullets only.
2) A given bullet may have a slightly larger OD at the crimp, or harder bearing surface.
Anyway, a bulge created by a crimp should be very obvious. The remedy is to eliminate the crimping action of the die - see post #22.
My understanding is that the OP has adjusted the seating screw to get the spec OAL with the offending bullet.(see post #1) By incrementally increasing the seating depth he should be able to determine if he has a land interference problem very quickly. It appears that he has made this partial determination already (see post #7), lets not confuse this lad any more.
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I didn't realize the crimping feature of my dies were for cannelure bullits only. I've used the taper crimp on all my .223 bullits (without cannelure) and haven't had a problem with them (2000 ish rnds). I'm saying it's right , but it has worked well for me. I'm loading for a semi . When I first started I had a couple of setbacks and then decided to use a slight taper crimp and haven't had a problem since.
I gentle taper crimp is fine. But if it is over-crimped, it causes a bulge.
I seem to be getting more confused by the moment
I am not crimping the bullits at all , just pressing them into the case.
I just checked about 20 cartridges that I full length resized reloaded at the same time using the hornady ones and I find that of the 20 there are 7 that chamber ok and the bolt closes fine. The remainder I did not even fully close the bolt due to the high resistance
As I stated I am new to reloading and I do appreciate all your help
I am not crimping the bullits at all , just pressing them into the case.
I just checked about 20 cartridges that I full length resized reloaded at the same time using the hornady ones and I find that of the 20 there are 7 that chamber ok and the bolt closes fine. The remainder I did not even fully close the bolt due to the high resistance
As I stated I am new to reloading and I do appreciate all your help
As a newbie, you will have a steep learning curve.
Most things you learn will be the hard way. That is how we all learned.
Crimping is done with the seater die. If the die is turned in past a certain point, it will crimp. Back it out one full turn, and turn the stem down a bit. This will make sure there is no crimping gong on.
take one of the rounds that won't chamber and force the bolt to close, then open the bolt. Look for new marks on the case/bullet to show what is interfering.
Most things you learn will be the hard way. That is how we all learned.
Crimping is done with the seater die. If the die is turned in past a certain point, it will crimp. Back it out one full turn, and turn the stem down a bit. This will make sure there is no crimping gong on.
take one of the rounds that won't chamber and force the bolt to close, then open the bolt. Look for new marks on the case/bullet to show what is interfering.
I have a Lee Prescion hand press that travels with me to the range that I use to set reloads to different lengths. I know what my Max COL is for every given bullet for each firearm, however this is not necessary optimum length. I have the cartridges set slightly longer at home then tweak them at the range to avoid wasting rounds or time pulling bullets at home.
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OP - based upon your latest post, it would seem that some of your cases did not get properly resized. This is easy to do, if you don't fully complete the sizing stroke with your press lever, or don't lube the inside of the neck. Follow Ganderites advice ....
Yup, a comparator will give you more reliable measurements, but won't solve the OP's issue. The fact remains that a maximum OAL has to be established for each bullet type in a specific rifle. The back that of 10 - 20 thou and you should be good to go.
There are two ways to set up the sizing die.
One involves allowing the handle to cam over.
I much prefer to turn the die in a few revs further, so the die hits the shellholder hard, and does not cam over.
In this way I know each case got sized exactly all the same.
If you are using the cam over style, it could be that some of your cases are not full length sized all the way.
One involves allowing the handle to cam over.
I much prefer to turn the die in a few revs further, so the die hits the shellholder hard, and does not cam over.
In this way I know each case got sized exactly all the same.
If you are using the cam over style, it could be that some of your cases are not full length sized all the way.
got this from a shooting magazine 20 years ago. full-length resize case. then cut a slot from casemouth to just into the shoulder. seat a bullet out long then chamber the round by hand. carefully eject case making sure not to drop it or let it hit receiver. the bullet is now seated deeper. there will be rifling scratches but measure to the end or thickest part of the bullet. this point will be smaller than the ogive. now seat bullets .020" shorter so the bullet is off the rifling. now here is where the fun starts. you can fine tune your load by trying different powder charges and then play with bullet depth or length. just remember to check for pressure signs especially if you find your best accuracy has the bullet touching the rifling. i have met bench rest shooters who have the bullet as much as .020" into the rifling.
That's a different take than mine - I cut the stops off so that the ram cams over so that the case gets hit twice - the second time on the way back.
I do this so that "I know that each case is sized exactly the same." I find it hard to tell if I have hit the shell holder or if it just got stiff to resize at the last - but with the die set to cam over , I know that it is home.
I guess that it could be the OPs problem - just short-stroking a bit.
Thanks Guys.
I think that is what I am doing - just short stroking by a little bit. I think that I stop pushing the ram up when I hear the spent primer being ejected from the case. I guess on the majority I do use the full travel of the ram and on some others I stopped when the primer was pushed out. I will set up my press all over again
Much appreciated
I think that is what I am doing - just short stroking by a little bit. I think that I stop pushing the ram up when I hear the spent primer being ejected from the case. I guess on the majority I do use the full travel of the ram and on some others I stopped when the primer was pushed out. I will set up my press all over again
Much appreciated
