Do I need an Optics Rail?

D

Duner

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I am starting in the precision shooting world (and loving it!), I started off with used Rem 700 VS in .308 Win, with a fixed 16X SS scope. I am thinking of upgrading the scope to a variable power Leupold (or similar) this summer.

I will probably upgrade the rings and bases as well because I don't really like the leupold STD rings that it came with because of the windage screws on the rear base (not known for their strength and possible source of loose screws). I was thinking of upgrading the rings and bases to the leupold dual dovetail, as these have been proven to be durable and I use them on my hunting rig which sees more than its fair share of abuse.

Most precision rigs that see rough field use seem to have a 20MOA (or similar) rail. I plan on getting a scope that has enough elevation to get to 1000+ yards without a cant to the base.

So here comes the question... Do I really need an optics rail, or would Leupold DD bases be just as durable without the added weight and bulk of a rail.

Thanks
 
Theory says yes because scopes work better if you are not at the extreme ends of the adjustment range. Better to have your 1000 yard setting some closer to the middle rather than the top.

20 MOA scope rails don't have to be bulky and expensive. I've got a EGW rail on mine, ordered it direct and I think it was under $40.00

Another option is to use Burris Zee rings with the adjustable shims to give you 20 MOA in the rings.
 
I think you are on the right track and welcome to the addiction.

For what it is worth.... 99.9% of long range precisiion shooters use 1-piece bases/rails in either Picatinny or Weaver spacing 100% of the after market precision scope rings are made to fit that type of base. So... if upgrading your scope, I would suggest it. There are many many different brands, I happen to love Ken Farrell bases.

Also, the best variable power scopes (and I assume you want to upgrade in quality) have 30mm tubes. These give you more internal adjustment and often negate the need for canted bases.

Lastly even a typical 180 grain bullet doing 2600 fps out of a 308 will drop only 39 minutes at 1000 yards from a 100 yard zero.

I would personally suggest staying away from the 20 MOAbases as they are generally not needed, but if you are worried, simply go 10 MOA.

Some set-ups actually make it impossible for you to zero at 100 with 20 MOA. I actually cannot even zero at 300 with a 20MOA base. This is not true with all rigs, but it is with one of mine.
 
Obtunded said:
I think you are on the right track and welcome to the addiction.

For what it is worth.... 99.9% of long range precisiion shooters use 1-piece bases/rails in either Picatinny or Weaver spacing 100% of the after market precision scope rings are made to fit that type of base. So... if upgrading your scope, I would suggest it. There are many many different brands, I happen to love Ken Farrell bases.

Also, the best variable power scopes (and I assume you want to upgrade in quality) have 30mm tubes. These give you more internal adjustment and often negate the need for canted bases.

Lastly even a typical 180 grain bullet doing 2600 fps out of a 308 will drop only 39 minutes at 1000 yards from a 100 yard zero.

I would personally suggest staying away from the 20 MOAbases as they are generally not needed, but if you are worried, simply go 10 MOA.

Some set-ups actually make it impossible for you to zero at 100 with 20 MOA. I actually cannot even zero at 300 with a 20MOA base. This is not true with all rigs, but it is with one of mine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise!

It sounds like a 10MOA base might be the way to go. I am going to upgrade to a good quality scope with a 30mm tube... I want to do it right the first time not having to upgrade the same part over and over.
 
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