Do it yourself Moly

powdergun

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Has anyone used the Lyman kit for Moly coating bullets. What kind of results did you get?

Second question: How good are the Frankford arsenal brass cleaners ?
 
Boer seun said:
What's the pro's and cons of moly coated bulletts? I have never used them


Oh, wow, this is going to get interesting :)

There are a LOT of claims about what moly does and does not do. Basically, moly reduces bore friction, and lowers pressure. So, for equal bullets & charges, the moly one will exit the barrel slower. But pressures will be a lot lower, too. So you can add more powder to your moly loads before they reach the same pressures as the non moly load. Now this is where it gets really cool - with loads at exactly the same pressure, the moly one will have a higher muzzle velocity!

There is a lot of debate as to what other advantages moly may or may not offer. As far as anyone can tell, there is no accuracy gain from using moly. Moly WILL reduce copper fouling in the barrel, but the moly itself will build up, so you still need to clean your bore often. Some even say that moly increases your BC because the bullets are better lubricated against air resistance. No actual evidence of this has been found

I just use the lyman spray-on moly. Works great. Spray the bullets evenly, allow them to dry for an hour or so, then wipe off the excess or polish with a cloth
 
Get an aerosol can of dry molybdium di sulfate (SP) lubricant. try auto parts store. cost is about 20 bucks. NAPA can order it, if the guy behind the counter gives you a blank look tell him to start flipping throught his catalouges. It exists and it is the best stuff to use.

degrease bullets with alcohol or something.

get a cheap hair dryer and a card board box, stand bullets up on flat surface, cover with box, put hole in box and insert dryer, heat bullets till hot, remove box, and spray with moly, careful not to knock bullets over (this is a pain) put box back on and insert dryer for a few more minutes.

Viola a real nice moly job. Moly will stick like glue if you do it this way and not come off unless you scratch it off. If you like pretty bullets it polishes to a real nice shine using toilet paper. If you don't heat and degrease it wont stick. It holds up amazingly well. and if you polish it a bit it wont rub off on your pants pockets, fingers, truck seat etc.

DO THIS OUT SIDE MOLY IS TOXIC and Toleen is bad news for the family jewels.

Benefits are Huge, more consistent velocity , in 30-06 and 6.5x55 I get at least 100 fps more velocity! Barrel simply does not heat up any where near as quick as with uncoated bullets.

There is also some sort of moly kit designed to be used in a tumbler but I don't know anything about it. I do know the above works and have done a lot of bullets with it.
P.S this is a great chance to say to the wife:

"gee honey that old hair dryer of your's it just is'nt good enough for a woman as great as you. Why don't I just fire that one in the garbage right now and tommorrow you go out and buy a nice new one for yourself"

Gets her out of the house, bonus points for you and a molycoating dryer to boot!
 
Boer seun said:
So there is no real advantage when useing this in a hunting rifle?

I seriously doubt it for all the stuff one has to do.

Deer in woods..."Dang that bullet that hit me was only 2300 fps, not 2400 fps"! :D

Interesting idea for competition bullets though, and sounds like it would help me keep the names I write on the bullets from wiping off so easy. ;) :D
 
The advantage of moly, at least I find, is less cleaning.
I have gone over 900 rounds and should not have cleaned when I did.
I use the tumbler method with moly powder. 5 minutes in corn cob to clean, 1 hour in the moly/steel shot bowl (if I don't forget and leave it running over night). Roll them in an old rag to get the excess off and load them. I have been using moly for about 7-8 years and will continue with the next barrel that is going on in a few weeks.
 
Degreasing the bullet before molly seems to be the key. There was an article awhile back on the degreasing process and they foundwDAWN (dish soap) was a great degreaser and once the bullets were degreased the molly adhered much better no flaking off or clumping.
 
Rinsing them under (really) hot water has always been sufficient for me. Plus, once they dry off they're still warm, which aids the spray-moly's drying

Trevor60 said:
Degreasing the bullet before molly seems to be the key. There was an article awhile back on the degreasing process and they foundwDAWN (dish soap) was a great degreaser and once the bullets were degreased the molly adhered much better no flaking off or clumping.
 
I use the tumbler method. Dead easy. I degrease using aersol brake cleaner.

Dump into tumbler, sprinkle some on top (nothing scientific here as any excess will simply be at the bottom of the tub), turn on and leave the room (very noisy). I let it go for 15 min. wipe off excess using paper towel. Good to go.

I have seen huge benefits in production and military rifles. Any bore that is not lapped smooth will see gains both in reduced fouling and increased velocity.

Bore stability is also enhanced. Meaning, POI stays consistent after many shots fired. So indirectly, moly does improve accuracy.

I don't suggest using it in a hunting rifle or any rifle bore where you need to protect from rust. Moly layer needs to stay untouched for max benefit. If removed due to cleaning or oil, you will need to shoot several rds to stabilize.

That is just a royal pain and a waste of ammo. I use moly on almost all my rifles. I also don't clean my rifles often. Cold barrel impact is usually right on even when sitting for very long periods of time.

I don't believe in moly build up as it has a very hard time sticking to anything let alone itself. Also, I don't believe that moly causes rusting by attracting moisture. If so, it would never stay an ultra fine powder when opened to atmosphere. My moly has been left on my table for 6yrs now and the same as the day I bought it.

Moly bullets (unwaxed) are dirty to touch, will rub off. I haven't used spray stuff so can't comment but sounds like a cleaner way to go. I don't recommend waxing bullets as carnuba wax does burn and any wax that burns will leave a soot fouling that would be a royal pain to remove. There are many that disagree with me on this.

I believe it is this burnt wax that causes the problems blamed on moly. No data, just a hunch.

Moly offers me more benefits then negatives so I continue to use it.

Jerry
 
When I did moly my bullets, I used the tumbler method. I even experimented with the spray stuff but dumped that really quick when everything in my workshop had a very thin coating of moly including the insides of my nose. The bullets did look really cool with its shiney grey finish and did notice that they did chronograph a little faster than the uncoated bullets. Although it didn't hurt my gun, I don't do it anymore because I've just gotten lazy, and the groupings I got from the coated and uncoated were aboute the same. There is a lot of 'Hocus Pocus' in reloading and shooting in general, but if something brings you just that little bit more of confidence on the firing line then I say go for it. Good Luck!:)
 
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