Do rings make a difference?

seamusm

seamusm

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Does anyone here find the rings they mount their scopes in makes a difference?

My thinking is as long as I'm mounting my scope in 4 or 6 screw rings, not cheap rings off amazon, they're all pretty much all the same. Am I really getting more going from a $60 Weaver set to a $250+ set?

I'm asking because I'm putting together a new 308 rig. I'm not oppose to spending big money on the rings if they make a difference. I can always mount them on my next rig if I upgrade.

P.S. I know this could be the wrong forum, maybe optic, but I want to ask LR shooters, not hunters.
 
So the first thing is go up to something like Warne or something a little better than weaver. The cost jumps up in materials. You may find that weaver will be made a little cheaper and can actually shift or the metal can even stretch. The other big difference is weight. If it's a straight bench gun then it doesn't really matter but the more expensive rings may be made of stronger yet lighter materials.
 
For a small increase in price and a big increase in quality over the Weaver rings check out the MDT Premier Scope Rings.

https://mdttac.ca/premier-scope-rings/

I find anything priced above that gives you a miniscule quality increase for the substantial price increase.

I do not believe paying $250 to get a set of quality rings is necessary.
 
They do. I have quite a few lapped Burris Zee rings (you can cold blue after lapping). They used to cost around $60 with lapping at a local gun store. The price is closer to $80 all in now - MDT rings are a better deal.

I have a set of MDT Elite 30mm rings on my 300PRC - the Nikon FX1000 moved after my first range session (20 in lbs). Re-torqued to 22 in lbs, marked location and it didn't move after the next...

I have read that you need to put a little grease on the taper of the mounting screws or you could get false torque readings. I am going to try that and torque to 17 in lbs - see if that holds.

Finally - use Loctite Blue 243 since it rated to work even if there is a little grease/oil in the threads.

Preparation and installation methods are just as important as the rings you select.
 
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For my bench rifles I use Burris Signature Zee Rings on a 20 moa pic rail and two hunting rifles.

They off an addition up to ~ 20 moa in the ring inserts as well. The inserts will not mar the scope body.

For mounting degrease/oil everything that makes contact , screws as well, then apply a very small amount of clear nail polish on the screws, some will put colored nail polish on screws to indicate if the screw has moved.
 
NaviDave said:
I have read that you need to put a little grease on the taper of the mounting screws or you could get false torque readings. I am going to try that and torque to 17 in lbs - see if that holds.
Click to expand...

Wet and dry torques are different. Wet torquing something increases the torque applied.
 
What is your scope worth?
I really like the ARC M10 rings and I have a few sets of ATRS rings that don't leave any marks on scopes.

Most rings over $80 hold the scope but it will be preference of weight, height, material etc that will dictate what rings I choose.
 
I have a made-in-1955 Winchester Model 70 in 30-06. It has aluminum Weaver bases, the old school Weaver big knob rings and a Weaver K4-1 scope. Not going to be changing anything on that outfit - is about perfect, as is. What you want to spend on rings / bases is all up to you - I suspect once you get to a level of quality that includes quality screws that can accept proper torque without the heads turning off, then it becomes a diminishing return in performance as you spend more money. Lapping the installation is the single best thing I know of to do, after torque spec and removable loctite in the base screws. Some people want to spend the more money - makes them feel better about their rifle, I guess??
 
I don't do long range shooting, not my thing. As a hunter, in my opinion, rings matter. I used to be the guy who didn't really care what rings I used on my scope until those cheap scope rings came lose and I hadn't really paid attention. The buck basically laughed at me while running away, after I calmed down and started to do a quick check on the scope and rings..turned out that a couple of those cheap scope rings screws were loose there was enough movement that the scope was out. That experience changed my mind about rings. Weaver Grand Slam steel rings are ( so far) the best rings I have used with no issues. You don't need to break the bank on rings, but don't be afraid to spend money on good rings. You won't regret it.
 
I'll echo that the MDT Premier rings are a fantastic value, I use them on my hunting rifle and have had zero issues with them (which is about the best thing you can say about rings, haha).

I've used many of the high end rings/mounts out there: MDT Premier and Elite rings and One Piece mount, Badger Ordnance rings and Unimounts, Leupold Mk4 rings, ADM mounts, ARMS 22 rings. What they have all had in common is no scope movement and no zero shifts. Generally, what you're paying for with "higher end" rings is precision/matching machining so as to have 2 perfectly aligned rings with no need to lap them. Past that, you get into different material costs (steel vs Al for strength vs weight), area of manufacture (Can, USA, EU, offshore) and different capabilities (like ring cap interface options for adding rails, offset sights, co-ax LRF, ACI, etc) and some extras (like included bubble levels, etc)
 
BCBRAD said:
For my bench rifles I use Burris Signature Zee Rings on a 20 moa pic rail and two hunting rifles.

They off an addition up to ~ 20 moa in the ring inserts as well. The inserts will not mar the scope body.

For mounting degrease/oil everything that makes contact , screws as well, then apply a very small amount of clear nail polish on the screws, some will put colored nail polish on screws to indicate if the screw has moved.
Click to expand...

This. - dan
 
BCBRAD said:
For my bench rifles I use Burris Signature Zee Rings on a 20 moa pic rail and two hunting rifles.

They off an addition up to ~ 20 moa in the ring inserts as well. The inserts will not mar the scope body.

For mounting degrease/oil everything that makes contact , screws as well, then apply a very small amount of clear nail polish on the screws, some will put colored nail polish on screws to indicate if the screw has moved.
Click to expand...

dan belisle said:
This. - dan
Click to expand...

x3
I really like the Burris Signature Zee rings as well. The plastic inserts grip the scope, don`t leave any marks and also let you put in some offset for elevation or windage if you want to.
I have never had any issues with these rings on my hunting rifles and they are not super expensive.
 
I feel Ihave been doing a poor job in Mounting scopes, and am trying to improve it.
A couple of observations I think about.
-consistent torque on all screws is as important as correct torque. So torque wrench good.
-after lapping, the high and low areas in the rings are surprising, as evidenced by Abrasive wear on the blueing. So lapping good, I feel.
I like Leupold rifleman rings, seem to be a decent cost/quality Choice
Still learning
 
You do get what you pay for with rings...no doubt about it...materials/design/function.

One of the biggest reasons to use quality rings is their ability to hold zero ...especially in a rifle that gets field or other rough use.
Ammo is expensive...chasin your ass with loose rings and or rings that dont hold zero every time they are nudged gets expensive,,,and frustrating

They are the least expensive element to a precision rifle setup....hardly worth skimping IMO and experience.

Lastly...support a CDN maker
 
I do not think it has been mentioned - can not expect same performance for rings with a 2.5 power 7 ounce scope on a 257 Roberts, versus a 2 pound 6-24 power scope with 50 mm Objective on a 300 Weatherby Mag. Is about what the rings / bases being asked to hold against. Heavy scope, heavier recoil rifle is a higher demand on rings and bases than lighter ones.
 
Start by checking that the top of the action and the base mount true and straight... then you just need any ring that is made well enough to hold the scope in place and have the openings line up with each ring.

if the action is not true (more often then shooters think), then you should shim the base to make it true... then see above.

if you are simply going to bolt on a base onto a generic action, then Burris Sig rings with inserts... sig Zee or the newer XTR signature.

I do not lap the rings nor do I recommend this be done. If the rings dont line up... get better rings... fix the action and/or base.

Or use Sig rings with inserts and not worry about any of the above.

simple

Jerry
 
As a multiple season with multiple contests Match Director, I get to witness all kinds of fzck ups on the firing line. Good, bad, or Indifferent….. I get to see it all.

I’ve seen screws loosen among the rings, bases, add ons, and finally, every single point of failure imaginable on the PR rig. I get to see what works and what doesn’t work. I get to kick back and say, “Nice rig, but this ain’t gonna end well.” :eek:

I’ve seen reticles fail, adjustment knobs strip, zero settings wander, bases shake loose. If it can fail/loosen/weaken it will and it will accelerate the more I watch you fumble on my firing line. Then I end up with all sorts of anecdotal funny stories to relay on to my students at my courses. Oh my….. :rolleyes:

Solution??

Spend your money on reputable gear, tools, rings, optics, fasteners, ammunition…. I realize everyone is likely on a budget, but if you find yourself short on money; Quit drinking and/or Quit smoking. Just don’t quit fornicating… that should be almost free ah aha ha ha ha ha. Weak attempt at humour here. Sorry, I could not resist.

I know someone out there is going to flame me since they have a tiny sense of humour, but I’m speaking from experience as a Match Director. I don’t run one match a year …. I run one or two a MONTH, plus deliver my classes.

Many new shooters choose to spend lots of $$ on the rifle or the wrong items, and I will find out sooner or later at my sessions. Save yourself the anguish. Don’t be THAT guy…. :evil:

Old fashioned wisdoms like “You get what you pay for….” Kicks into high gear here.

Or

“Buy once, cry once”

Or

“Save your money”

Or

“Buy what you can afford for now , but plan on upgrading later on….”


Okay, at one point, I have to offer practical solutions instead of being such a blowhard (just ask my wife…) LOL.

Find a decent/good/respectable/ somewhat affordable brand wth a budget-corresponding/friendly price point. Do your research. Read the reviews. Attend some matches. See what people are using. Discover what the experts started out with when they were rookies, you will be surprised.

Many scope brands have good/great/ fabulous product lines at varying price points. Learn to find these price point models. See if that brand model can work for your needs in the interim as you grow your experience set. Upgrade when time/expertise/experience/budget/opportunity allow moving forward.

Let me share just ONE example. Back in my early Service Rifle days of 1989, I ran a flat top AR. Scope rings? I began using Millett Angle Loc rings because LeBaron always had them on sale in all the heights and diameters I needed. I broke a screw or 2 along the way, Mllett in California sent me several screws of varying labelled sizes. I became a fanboy. Now I had spare parts and this encouraged me to run their AngleLoc rings in my SR AR15, then my Precision Rifle, and also my groundhog hunting rifle.

I won several gold medals along the way. I worked a part time job at the Ski Hill and was able to save up for Leupold Mark4 rings over the next few years. Then my work with 2PPCLI Sniper dets had me looking at TPS Rings from Brownells. The decades rolled by and several sponsors later, I’ve recommended many of my clients towards the MDT Premier Scope Ring line because of their price points, quality control, spare parts availability, and Marten Van Ruitenberg kindly sponsors my Junior Program kids with chamber flags. :wave:

I’ve sent many clients over to Vortex rings with fantastic success, and Burris, and Leupold, and Warne, and Talley. The list goes on and on. Same advice can apply for optics brands.

Many of my shooting clients and contacts in Garrison Petawawa have multiple deployments. I’ve since modified my advice to :

“Would you take this gear overseas???”

That’s my latest acid (Metaphor warning) test to several of my clients these days. Find what works for you and your game, budget, comfort level, price point, research, LCF (looks cool factor) and then do your research. Save up some money by avoiding vices, then “Buy once, cry once!”

It’s worked for me for over 40 years. I am very blessed….


This is a great and helpful community with tonnes of experience and advice. Thank you for all you support over the decades!! :wave:


Peace Be The Journey!

Cheers, Barney
 
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My f-class rifle bardard s , on third barrel. Changed at app. 3000 to 3500 rounds, lapped rings when i insaled them
troqed them at 22 inch pounds ,never moved in 8 years
tps rings alloy app 100.00
 
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