Does Pitting Matter? Should I get a stainless Barrel?

[cz858lover]

I have a CSA VZ-58 and the barrel just won't come clean. I've tried everything and it still doesn't look good. I've probably damaged the barrel by now with my OCD cleaning and am ready to just give up on it and get a new stainless barrel. Does Stainless handle the corrosive better then the regular barrel?

The worst part about all of this is that I cleaned it after shooting the corrosive, I guess I used the wrong solvent and/or didn't clean it good enough. Do you think its worth it to install a new stainless barrel and make sure to give it an extra good cleaning right after each and every shooting session?

 

[Scotty454]

...Does it still shoot OK?

Stainless would hold up better, as the corrosive salts simply cause a carbon steel barrel to rust (A decent SS won't rust). But all of the gas block/piston parts will still rust with a stainless barrel (Unless the gas block is integral with the barrel, and will also be stainless? I don't have a VZ-58, so not sure how that works...). Better off just cleaning it properly after each trip shooting corrosive.

 

[cz858lover]

...Does it still shoot OK?

Stainless would hold up better, as the corrosive salts simply cause a carbon steel barrel to rust (A decent SS won't rust). But all of the gas block/piston parts will still rust with a stainless barrel (Unless the gas block is integral with the barrel, and will also be stainless? I don't have a VZ-58, so not sure how that works...). Better off just cleaning it properly after each trip shooting corrosive.

Thanks for the response. I had it out shooting and I wasn't overly impressed with how it shot. now that being said I could barely see the target past the post of the front site so it might shoot better if I went with the right target. I would say I was getting 6-8" groupings at 50 yards. Very terrible i know. I might be able to tighten this up if I brought a target more suited to shooting with irons at longer distances though.

I gave it a good cleaning with hoppes #9 and thought all was good. from now on I will give it the boiling water treatment followed by a really good cleaning.

I was also cleaning it like an OCD so chances are i've probably damaged the bore from my excessive cleaning without being able to get a straight shot at the breach with the rod.

 

[pcvando]

Hoppes 9 alone won't work.

Boiling water. Maybe windex with ammonia, then let dry/patch til dry. Then oil.

Hope that helps.

 

[Nbhunt3r]

Before I'd go buying new barrels etc, I would take to a gunsmith or someone with a bores scope. I'm asuming your shining a flashlight down the bore. Also is what your seeing a copper colour? If by chance you are, you are going to need a copper solvent to remove it.

 

[cz858lover]

Before I'd go buying new barrels etc, I would take to a gunsmith or someone with a bores scope. I'm asuming your shining a flashlight down the bore. Also is what your seeing a copper colour? If by chance you are, you are going to need a copper solvent to remove it.

I've tried giving it the wipeout treatment. When I look down the pipe I see greenish spots with what looks like rust and crud in between. I'm just worried I may have ruined the bore with my cleaning rod. the cost of the new barrel is over half the cost of the new price of the rifle. hardly seems like a worth while investment. It doesn't really look pitted, I am just puzzled with my terrible groupings I got from it.

 

[svt1940]

I've tried giving it the wipeout treatment. When I look down the pipe I see greenish spots with what looks like rust and crud in between. I'm just worried I may have ruined the bore with my cleaning rod. the cost of the new barrel is over half the cost of the new price of the rifle. hardly seems like a worth while investment. It doesn't really look pitted, I am just puzzled with my terrible groupings I got from it.

I dont think you ruined your bore with the cleaning rod. Does the csa come with the military cleaning kit or you must use others cleaning tools?

 

[Nbhunt3r]

I've tried giving it the wipeout treatment. When I look down the pipe I see greenish spots with what looks like rust and crud in between. I'm just worried I may have ruined the bore with my cleaning rod. the cost of the new barrel is over half the cost of the new price of the rifle. hardly seems like a worth while investment. It doesn't really look pitted, I am just puzzled with my terrible groupings I got from it.

Like I said check with a bore scope.

 

[ice2152]

Green spots would likely be copper fouling after its been wet. There are copper solvents.

 

[cz858lover]

Like I said check with a bore scope.

I checked it with a scope. It actually didn't look too bad at all down the pipe. I just wonder why its grouping so badly though.

 

[Claven2]

I checked it with a scope. It actually didn't look too bad at all down the pipe. I just wonder why its grouping so badly though.

Poor ammo or poor aiming technique? Also, the VZ is hardly a match-grade shooter. Maybe you're expecting too much from it?

 

[Sir Plus]

I think the only problem your barrel has is its owner. I shoot corrosive out of many guns and it does NOT need any special treatment beyond a few wet patches. Never had any rust.
If you obsessively clean your rifles you'l just wear the rifling prematurely.

 

[EHG]

Before you go changing barrels, try recrowning the muzzle. That's where most of the damage comes from obsessive cleaning.
Have a gunsmith who can check that. I've recrowned many barrels and accuracy returned.

 

[CanadianBaconPancakes]

Thanks for the response. I had it out shooting and I wasn't overly impressed with how it shot. now that being said I could barely see the target past the post of the front site so it might shoot better if I went with the right target. I would say I was getting 6-8" groupings at 50 yards. Very terrible i know. I might be able to tighten this up if I brought a target more suited to shooting with irons at longer distances though.

I gave it a good cleaning with hoppes #9 and thought all was good. from now on I will give it the boiling water treatment followed by a really good cleaning.

I was also cleaning it like an OCD so chances are i've probably damaged the bore from my excessive cleaning without being able to get a straight shot at the breach with the rod.

It sucks to hear guys that avoid using boiling water and damage their rifles. So much miss information out their that people think their is somthing wrong about using water.

I used boiling water for 2 years and the guy that got my VZ was very happy with the condition. Says allot about how safe it is. It was my main shooter too. Loved it. No damage or pits.

A VZ/CZ should group about 4 MOA at 100 Yards. Post some targets up at 25 and at 100.

 

[Dake21]

Ive heard a trick about checking your crown. Make sure your firearm is unloaded, take a complete cartridge and insert the bullet into the muzzle. If the bullet goes in all the way until it hits the cartridge case then your crown is damaged.

 

[Sir Plus]

That's for wear. A damaged crown could easily pass the bullet test if it has seen little use

 

[Dake21]

Damaged, worn, whatever. If it was actual damage like a dent you would see it anyway.

 

[Tyler]

Nothing wrong with boiling water, just be carful when you pour and handle the rifle afterwards.

It works. Just oil it after.

OP: try some foaming bore cleaner, the copper will run right out.

 

[DT741]

I checked it with a scope. It actually didn't look too bad at all down the pipe. I just wonder why its grouping so badly though.

1-shooter induced accuracy/innacuracy

2-type of ammo used

6-8" at 50meters is horrible groupings, rifle is capable of 3-4moa at 100m. Had a 13" x 14" grouping shooting prone at 300m and without the 3 flyers, it becomes a 9"x9". I have the picture, its on a silhouette so not gonna post it for now.

100m grouping are usually palm sized (not including the fingers, only the palm) and that is with chinese corrosive copper washed ammo.