don't know a thing about scopes

drae

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Hi folks, a couple of questions regarding scopes. how do you pick the right scope, how do you mount a scope or where do get it done. I plan on useing it at the range. What is a good brand, I was looking on wholesale sport outfitters and did'nt know where to start.:confused:
 
Hi drae,
"how do you pick the right scope"? What are you using it for, what kind of gun and what kind of distances?

"how do you mount a scope or where do get it done?" What part of the country are you in?

"What is a good brand"? What is your budget/price range?
 
Hi JNG,
the rifles a marlin 30-30 or 30-06 to shot at a public shooting range in nova scotia as far as budget/price range, I have 0 expernce with a scope
i always used sights on the rifle i used. A scoped rifle was never handy so i quess im looking for a happy medium.
 
Hi drae

A couple of things about scopes:

1) Brands mean something, but even between the brands there are different quality levels. For example Leupold, which make excellent scopes, have 3 main categories of scope (VX-1's, VX-2's and VX-3's) which differ markedly in price and quality.

2) You should know what the scope specs mean. You will hear people talk about a 3-9x40 scope, which means that it can be adjusted to magnify the target between 3 and 9x, and has a lens with a 40mm diameter. A 4x30 scope is "fixed power" in that it can only magnify the target 4x, and has a 30mm lens.

The crosshairs on a scope are referred to as the "reticule" and there are various designs, from a simple cross to crosshairs with various markings for working out distances etc.

3) As stated above, the right scope depends on (i) your rifle and (ii) the application you will be using it for. A rimfire rifle will often require a less quality scope than a centerfire since you are shooting at closer ranges.

Also if you have a light rifle you may wish to marry it with a light scope, whereas if you have a heavy centerfire rifle to be shot off the bench you may wish to have a heavier scope since the overall weight of the rifle is not as much of an issue.

4) So before anyone can recommend a scope, let us know:

- What rifle it will be mounted on?
- What is the application: hunting, target shooting?
- What distances do you think you will be shooting at?
- How much do you want to spend?

From what you have said I would say a cheap 3-9x40 scope would be a good option, such as a used Leupold VX-1.
 
The lens diameter HKfan is referring to is the Objective lens, The one at the front of the scope. The other lens, the one you look through is called the ocular lens. Objective lens is the one closest to the OBJECT you wish to shoot. Most scope nomenclature do not indicate the diameter of the ocular lens.

The crosshair(s) are known as RETICLE(s) not Reticule(s).

HKfan is correct regarding his other points. Some others to look at and understand would be:

Exit pupil: The diameter of light exiting the ocular lens and hitting your pupil. Ideally you want nothing less than a 3.5mm exit pupil. The exit pupil is determined by dividing the objective lens diameter by the magnification(max magnification for variables). A 3x9x40 optic would have an exit pupil of 3.6mm which is ideal for maximum brightness at highest power. The greater the magnification/power the larger the objective needs to be to achieve the ideal exit pupil.

Eye relief: The maximum distance your eye can be removed from the ocular lens. For hard hitting or high recoil firearms a greater eye relief is important. Greater eye relief also facilitates a greater range of cheek weld.

Field of View: Distance or area of land visible through the optic at a given range, usually at 100 yards. Binoculars give the FOV for 1000 yards.

Fixed Vs. Variable magnification: Both have good and bad points. Fixed power optics have fewer moving parts and tend to be stronger than variable power scopes. Fixed permits the user to become familiar with one magnification and allows for increased field of view in most cases. Variable permits you to increase or decrease your mag. as required. Variable power scopes can be problematic if the optic has a range finding reticle. Most range finding reticles require you to range at highest power. Often times the user forgets to go to max power before ranging and makes a mistake in ranging. Variables also decrease your field of view at higher magnifications. A smaller FOV makes tracking targets more difficult. For stationary targets it makes little difference. Magnification increases the shooters perceived shakes. Obviously a variable power scope will indicate greater shakes at higher magnification. The great advantage to variables is their ability to magnify to great numbers. This allows the shooter to be more precise in his aiming as well as spot his own hits after the shot.

Most shooters I know use a variable. I use a 2.5x10x42 on my 10/22 for gophers. Most days I never adjust my magnification beyond 3.5. Sometimes I spend hours shooting prone at nothing less than 7x. Its nice to have the option.

Turrets/target turrets: Turrets are the knobs on the top and right side(as seen from behind the rifle) that adjust the reticle and your Point of Impact or POI. Target turrets are usually taller than standard turrets and provide for fast and frequent adjustments. Standard turrets are often protected by caps so that the settings are not bumped or knocked out of place.

Adjustment incriments or clicks: The turrets adjust your POI by a known distance. Most optics are 1/4 inch or 1/4 MOA adjustments. This means for each click of the turret you will move your POI 1/4 or .25 inches at 100 yards. The relationship is linear, the same adjustment while shooting at 200 yards will move your POI 1/2 or 0.5 inches, .75 inches at 300 and 1 inch at 400 etc etc.

MOA is an acronym for Minute of Angle. Which is what your turret adjustments are calibrated for. I've included a link that better describes what MOA is and how it works.

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/moa.html

TDC
 
I'm looking for a scope for my M70 .308 used for the range (mainly 100 yards) and deer. From what I've read, a 3-9x32-40 seems about right. Is this correct?

Also, I've read that a 9-12x magnification is great for the range, but 2-4 is ideal for hunting. Would that be correct and why would that be?
 
I have a 3-9x40 on my Tikka T3 Lite .308. It is a great hunting getup. You can crank it up to 9x for fairly accurate target shooting at 100m, and that would certainly be fine for deer at 100m.

3x is very good for shorter range shots <50m that need to be taken quickly. Over around 5x you will find that for the shorter range shots you will not be able to aim as quickly since your field of view is much narrower.

So a 3-9x40 would be great.
 
3x9x40 is all you need, I leave mine on 5X for hunting and don't touch it. Actualy if its game your after, a fixed 4x will work for damn near everything, and you never get caught screwing witht he power setting.
 
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