You have rec. some good input here. Keep in mind that the front hole in receiver will be in the chamber if too deep. Front rec. ring is very thin. That is for sure Eddystone and most were hard to the point of brittle. I have seen these crack from front of rec. to mag well when removing barrel. Note the 'bird bath' hole in rear has been filled in, prob. with a steel plug soldered in. The plug wiil be soft and easy to work with. The front ring will be your nightmare. You could screw the rear, center and align base, drill the front 2 base holes out and plug weld these holes to the receiver. Tig or mig. I'd mig them as less heat and won't take much to hold base anyway. It's a $50 rifle that will serve you well as a game getter. The rear of the action and the stock appear to be early BSA. Good luck. Mark
awesome info, thanks very much.
x2Forster jig. 319-400-000WB. $459.95.
This is the rig that I use. Maybe there are others, less expensive.
Speaking of information, you mentioned that you bought a drilling/tapping jig out of Brownell's. I have been looking for a decent one for a while now. I went to their site and couldn't find one. You wouldn't happen to have the item number so that I could order one for myself if I like how it looks?? I would appreciate the information.
Thanks for that info.Definitely a P14 with those English inspectors/proof marks on the barrel and receiver. If the sideways P next to the 17 on the barrel is what you are referring to, that's an English inspection mark next to a 17 for 1917 date of manufacture on the barrel. There were actual English military inspectors that came over to the US and inspected then stamped each rifle that was approved for service, none found on the M1917/P17. I'd imagine the US would've stamped them with their bomb logo for acceptance, but I could be mistaken in that.
Looks like they did a pretty decent job milling off the rear sight ears and other military accoutrement. Hope it makes for a good shooter.