Dry Moly Lubricant

Moly, is good but only under the right circumstances. I have worked a lot with moly lubes and don't like to get it in direct contact with my skin. Your pores, will absorb the stuff and it isn't good for you. Even trace amounts can cause damage. It's fine in a captured bearing, for extreme pressure use, if it's with the proper carrier, can provide a nice slippery surface and will adhere well to just about any metal or wood.

Look for a good "silicone" based lubricant. It is available in aerosol form and does just as good a job. They are usually better than WD40, as they adhere better and supposedly, even penetrate the pores of the steel. Very slippery as well.

If you're looking to grease the lugs and recesses on your bolt, any good grade of all purpose grease will do just fine.
 
No problems here with dry moly. I like the loctite brand stuff and use it on alot of guns. Works nicely.
 
Msds

MSDS
h ttp://www.kraftindustrialsupply.com/My%20Scans/molydry.pdf

APPLICATIONS:
The excellent wear resistance of this powder helps extend the life of metal parts such as cams, latches,
switches, low speed bearings, ways, gears, chains, rollers, hinges and many more. Use Moly Powder to
reduce friction in various metalworking applications such as stamping and bending or to prevent galling or
seizing of tools and dies. Use to prevent galling and seizing of sliding metal surfaces, lubricate surfaces
exposed to heavy loads and slow surface speeds where standard lubricating oils cannot be maintained,
lubricate newly assembled parts during critical run-in period, press fit assemblies. Moly powder is also an
excellent lubricant for reducing friction in plastic and rubber parts as well. It can be rubbed or burnished onto
o-rings, packings and seals where conventional oil lubrication cannot be used.
DATA & SPECIFICATIONS:
Product Type: Dry Film Lubricant
Color: Dark Gray
Temp Range: -375 ° F to +750 ° F
Particle Size: 3 – 4 (Fisher Number μΜ)

more information ??
h ttp://www.pdfgeni.org/fd/moly-dry-film-lubricant-pdf.html
 
Based on a long thread on Rimfire central I got some Loctite dry film lube to try on a couple of .22's. The jury is still out on the use of it on gun slides as I found one worked about the same and the other needed oil to work. It also is messy to use being in a spray can format. So after every solvent based cleaning, which they still needed from time to time due to the buildup of crud in the action, the coating was gone and I'd have to mask the frame and slide prior to re-applying it. All of this made for a lot of bother.

The instructions for the Loctite product I've got mention baking the coating to make it basically permanent as it then becomes solvent resistant. I never felt that the lack of solid advantages justified using it that way. Following two periods of "dry" shooting with the one gun I'm now back to just using oil and decently regular solvent cleanings.

Where I have used it to excellent effect is on the slide and magazine tubes of my 870. I smoothed away burrs and sharp rubbing points and then coated the magazine tube exterior and slide tube interior. The action was noticably slicker afterwards and it doesn't require grit and dust collecting oil to get the results. However I suspect the same improvement for THAT use would have come from waxing the parts with a basic parafin floor wax or a good automotive wax.
 
Molybdenum can be nasty stuff. If you have grazing animals and traces of it in your soil, it will inhibit growth, amongst other things, depending on how high the content is. In purified form, there are also lots of warnings about its toxicity and the ability to be absorbed into the skin. When it is used in conjunction with aerosols, it is advised that there be plenty of ventilation. At my last place of employment, we used quite a bit of it for various applications. It's is more of an impact and dirt deterrent than it is a lubricant. It is slippery though.
We were shown a couple of short videos on where, when and how to use it. We were cautioned to wear protective clothing, in most cases gloves and in poorly ventilated areas, dust masks. For a rifle, a little bit goes a long way. If you aren't getting it on you, it isn't a problem. If you're using it on moving equipment that is dry, it turns to air borne dust and can be easily ingested into your stomach and lungs. It will also cling to clothing. Look up the toxicity specs, it isn't stuff to take lightly.

There are many good grades of grease out there that have moly emulsified in them. This stuff is safer than dry moly powder. It will however leave your hands black if it gets on them.

Moly is good when it's used for its reccomended purposes. As far as firearms go, there are other products that are as effective or even better.
 
KG-8 Micro P.T.F.E. Dry Lube is new technology, incorporating a highly effective proprietary grinding process. This new technology grinds the Teflon Molecule to half of its molecular weight creating a low surface tension lube. The result produces a multi purpose lubricant which greatly reduces friction and wear more effectively then the normal P.T.F.E. Use Teflon Dry Lube where a dry, no-mess lubricant is required, i.e. triggers, slides, etc... It is especially useful for conceal and carry weapons where oil can be a problem, or for hunters where a no-scent lubricant is a requirement.

www.kgcoatings.com
 
Careful with graphite. I would not consider it for use on anything but key locks as it has no where near the 80,000+ PSI or 600 degree F rating of the moly that I use now.
"Lyman Super Moly" to brush on lightly oiled slide rails.
"Crown Dry Moly Spray 6080" for trigger groups and in barrels.
Never in chambers of semi-autos (violent ejection) or on wood (penetrates paint).
The vapor from any spray can should never be inhaled.
To remove from hands, I use baby oil then liquid dish soap.
I now use latex gloves when working with the spray.
 
Try tungsten disulphide, it works extremely well and is a lot tougher than graphite or moly based lubricants. I have done E-nickel plating with a dispersiant in the solution and plated in the coating in one step. Very slick. Good to coat the interior of the barrel too....only problem is you have to be right down to bare metal. Etching is the best, not for the faint of heart.
 
WD-40 is not a lubricant...
and some silicone lubes will "eat" plastic...

There may be better ones but, Sorry, WD-40 IS a lubricant! (so they say.....)

WD-40
Page 1 of 4
MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
SECTION 1 PRODUCT AND COMPANY IDENTIFICATION
MANUFACTURER/SUPPLIER:
US Office:
WD-40 Company
1061 Cudahy Place
San Diego, CA 92110
Information Phone #: (619) 275-1400
Emergency Phone # 24 hr:
Chemtrec: (800) 424-9300 –
Designated for use only in the event of chemical
emergencies involving a spill, leak, fire exposure or
accident involving chemicals.
Canadian Office:
WD-40 Products [Canada] Ltd.
P.O. Box 220
Toronto, Ontario M9C 4V3
Information Phone #: (416) 622-9881
Emergency Phone # 24 hr:
Canutec: (613) 996-6666 –
Designated for use only in the event of chemical
emergencies involving a spill, leak, fire exposure or
accident involving chemicals
PRODUCT NAME: WD-40 Aerosol
PRODUCT USE: Cleaner, lubricant.
MSDS DATE OF PREPARATION: March 13, 2010

.
 
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Molybdenum can be nasty stuff. If you have grazing animals and traces of it in your soil, it will inhibit growth, amongst other things, depending on how high the content is.

Molybdenum is a trace element found in all soils and most shallow groundwater in North America and beyond and is utilized in the human body by many enzymes for protein synthesis, metabolism and growth. Human intake of Molybdenum occurs with regular dietary food consumption. There is evidence that Molybdenum contibutes to reducing tooth decay.

Within the liturature, acute toxicity of Molybdenum to humans has not been noted, and toxicity is strongly dependent on the chemically reactive state of the ion. Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) used as a lubricant is a realtively low level (comparatively) reactive molecule.

As with most any refined/concentrated substance, excessive exposure is likely to have ill effects on the human body. Working with a dry product for long periods of time in an industrial setting in the absence of PPE is likely to meet this measure of exposure.

Without reservation I use Moly grease for firearm lubricant, dry Moly for trigger jobs and lubricant for neck sizing as well as impact plating thousands of bullets per year. I do mitigate the potential impact of dust however through the use of a hepa filter vaccum when I am emptying the plating tumbler (something I also do when cleaning case necks and primer pockets).

To answer the OP question, I have found 'Moly' to be an exceptional firearms lubricant and use wherever I can. Dry for trigger components (poor man custom trigger job) and bullet plating, paste for bore treatment, and grease for slide and barrel lubrication - you may need to lighten the grease using oil for function on the rails.
 
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