Duracoat camo kits --*Completed *Pics added!**

ceriksson

ceriksson

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I just got my CADPAT kit in the mail today, includes DVD, stencils, four paint colours and hardener.

This will be put on my 5R Milspec

I'll go buy an airbrush this weekend.

Am I the first one to try this kit out here? any of you have any experience with these products?

Judging by other pictures I have seen online not many have posted on the CADPAT kit but I am still excited to see how it turns out.

I won't be actually painting till next weekend when I have the time. It's going to take me a couple of long days to get all the coats and stenciling done.

CADPAT.jpg


Obviously it doesn't really look like cadpat but I still like the digital woodland like look.

I'm going to make mine more predominantly dark green and brown with specs of light green and black rather than the stock photo which is more black

Something like this but less of the brown
LTMR_AR_Woodland1.jpg
 
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i will do my 5th R5 this weekend, the 3rd in cadpat, i do mine in Cerakoat.
i will post pic tonignt here. It's very nice, the one i'am doing now will be complete, the stock, the scope, the barrel...
You will have to sand blast you project, make sure you have good air filter as water is a NO NO. If you need help, PM me or reply here...

Respectfully

Sendero
 
I have always chuckled at all the camo gadgets available for outdoorsmen. The silliest (after the camo flashlight) is a camo wallet. Drop that sucker in the leaves and try to find it! Oh, sorry I can't find my flashlight!

I can understand camo migratory bird guns for hiding in a blind, or turkey guns for blending into the backgrounds, but what is the reason for a camo 5-shot tactical rifle?
 
sendero said:
i will do my 5th R5 this weekend, the 3rd in cadpat, i do mine in Cerakoat.
i will post pic tonignt here. It's very nice, the one i'am doing now will be complete, the stock, the scope, the barrel...
You will have to sand blast you project, make sure you have good air filter as water is a NO NO. If you need help, PM me or reply here...

Respectfully

Sendero
Click to expand...


Thanks I look forward to seeing them'

As for sand blasting. I was talking to my gunsmith when I dropped it off to get my AGW bolt knob added and we discussed my plans for painting. He seemed to think that the beadblasting on the stainless on the rifle was rough enough to allow for painting.

I tend to agree with him. The stainless on the rifle has already been pretty roughed up by the beadblast finish. I think Duracoat is referring more to polished stainless when they refer to needing sanding/aluminum oxide blasting before painting, that and other shiny surfaces.

The product comes with a DVD and in their video they only show them blasting the shiny stuff like the grip on a handgun.

I'm not going to blast the stainless on my rifle and see how well it sticks.. Obviously I'm going to test it on a hidden portion of the material first.

This is mainly because I don't have the means to actually do any sandblasting.

I'm just going to set up shop in my Brothers open garage. He has a compressor and space for me to hang the parts to dry. I might put the smaller parts in the oven to quick dry. They give the choice of air drying for 2-3 hours or baking at 110 for 20 minutes. By baking the smaller parts like the bolt handle and trigger guard will give me something to do while I let the stock and barrel/action dry.
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
I have always chuckled at all the camo gadgets available for outdoorsmen. The silliest (after the camo flashlight) is a camo wallet. Drop that sucker in the leaves and try to find it! Oh, sorry I can't find my flashlight!

I can understand camo migratory bird guns for hiding in a blind, or turkey guns for blending into the backgrounds, but what is the reason for a camo 5-shot tactical rifle?
Click to expand...

cause we can;)
 
I have done the Duracoat camo finishes before. The first thing is to make absolutely sure that the area is really well ventilated, because that stuff is VERY toxic!!! Beyond that, make sure you degrease lots, before and after beadblasting. Actually applying the paint is remarkably easy, as it goes on so thin it just doesn't ever seem to run. Your first instinct will be to have the airbrush quite far away from the piece, 'knowing' that it will run if you get too close. This simply isn't true with the Duracoat. Anyway, it is a great finish, and is really permanent if the surfaces are prepped properly first. Oh, BTW, Armacoat is still around, we have a dealer here in Alberta, his name is Barrett. I've seen quite a number of guns he's painted, and they were all excellent.
 
Yea I'll be doing it in a garage with the door open..

Another question..

What kind of airbrush are you guys using? Because I don't plan to do it regularly I don't want to spend tons on an airbrush.

Do you use a simple hobby brush from a craft store or some kind of gravity feed brush from an automotive supplier, etc?
 
Garage door open is not enough my friend, i have a paint both for that purpose so that why i forget to tell you, you have to use a real mask for painting, it's for you health buddy... Thoses mask run for about 25$, you should use one.
Also, for air brush, when a have began, i was using COLEMAN airbrush from Wal-Mart for 20$, work very fine, make sure you don't have pressure over 30psi, they are plastic and will blow, forget about the tiny can with pressurized air inside, they don't last long, you will need just too much, tank filled by your buddy is nod good too, the pressure will not be constant, and when it drop, you will have tear of paint in your job...
As for bead blast, i never try but on stainess, i'am not shure it will be rough enough ??
Before i got my sand blast cabinet, the local body shop was OK to sand blast my project for FREE, i use a strong rubber pipe to put in the action, that i have cut on the back to macth the rear of the action, i plug the barrel with a hard wood home made BULLET and GO

So to me, buy
- glass inline filter for water 10$
- air brush 20$
- mask 25$
ask your local bodyshop if you can use their sand blast (about 20min job)
and enjoy your work
Let us know if you need help, it's always a pleasure to help other doing their project

Sendero
 
gabrielguitars said:
I Oh, BTW, Armacoat is still around, we have a dealer here in Alberta, his name is Barrett. I've seen quite a number of guns he's painted, and they were all excellent.[/QUOTE

Where is he then. He used to be a member here and his website has been down for ages. Do you have any recent contact info.
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I went to home depot yesterday and bought a proper gravity feed car touch up airbrush. It is an all metal construction with directional nozzle. It was only 30$ and is designed for an air compressor.

Next I'll probably get a mask and some gloves and I'll be good to go..

Geeze with all this extraneous equipment for this thing I might as well make a business out of it.
 
I have his phone number and e-mail at the office I will post them on Sunday or Monday. Sometimes he is a little slow at responding, but will get back to you. Also try The Shooting Edge in Calgary they also carry Arma-Coat.
 
I think Arma coat is a bake on finish while Duracoat can air dry..

don't quote me on that.. Otherwise there may be differences in the chemicals themselves, but either way I would have purchased either I just couldn't find any info on armacoat so their lack of marketing lost them another purchase.

The duracoat set though is pretty well done.. It comes with the 4 paint colours, 1 bottle of hardener that you have to mix with the paint before applying, an instructional DVD, and the stencils, which is basically a big roll of vinyl type stickers. You get a lot of sticker out of it. Probably more than I'll need for a single rifle. They are reuseable i think as well if you are careful taking them off.

I'm not sure on the price difference on Armacoat as well because I couldn't get any info, but fabsports had just increased their price of the set due to the different exchange rate but he gave me 10$ off and it cost me about 150$
 
Armacoat AND Duracoat are the same, the both have baked on and air cured, they have the same hardner and the same chimical base so if you pick one or other, it's ok

Also ceriksson, be carefull as the stencil you have are usually what you need for 1 rifle, dont forget that you have 4 color so you will have to put 3 layer of stencil, you paint your base color, let it dry, apply the first layer of stencil, paint OVER it, let it dry, apply the 2nd layer of stencil, paint and so and so.... that why you need a lot

Also, they SAY it is reusable but it is pain it the b... to stick them back on the paper, also, i had bad experience doing that, they where not sticky enough the 2nd time and when i shoot the paint, they peel easyly but that's just my experience...
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
I have always chuckled at all the camo gadgets available for outdoorsmen. The silliest (after the camo flashlight) is a camo wallet. Drop that sucker in the leaves and try to find it! Oh, sorry I can't find my flashlight!

I can understand camo migratory bird guns for hiding in a blind, or turkey guns for blending into the backgrounds, but what is the reason for a camo 5-shot tactical rifle?
Click to expand...

well, in short, for the same reason you picked the colour of your car. it's what leases your eyes. Cammo is like extra blingbling to many people. hell, if my wife would let me, i would have a shopping spree at cabelas for all the mossy oak trim and accents for my pickup. never mind losing a flashlight, i was standing 15 ft away from my wife at camp, and she lost me. i was in a full 3d leaf gillie suit.
 
Regarding Duracoat, say I'd want to paint a plastic stock like the one on a Norinco T97, what preparation would be required, other than a really deep clean of the surface?

Probably someone here has painted plastic parts with this before?
 
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