Easiest trajectory calculator to use?

iron cat

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Over the years I have accumulated a stack of hard copy trajectory tables in my note books and in the last little while, on my phone .
However , trying to find the danged things at times is a PIA
For me, as I am not very competent when it comes to electronics.
I also have used the Quick Target trajectory tables. But they are not totally accurate at times
Can anyone recommend a simple, easy to use set of trajectory calculator?
Cat
 

I've tried that one, attempting t0 work through it, but seeing how I shoot with irons, it is a bit difficult to transpose for me.
I think I have it soet of figured out however.
The problem of course ( as I see it), is that with these calculators are formatted with the scope at a set height, ie. 1.5".
With an iron sight, the rear and/or front sight are moving physically with each adjustment!
Cat
 
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I've tried that one, attempting t0 work through it, but seeing how I shoot with irons, it is a bit difficult to transpose for me.
I think I have it soet of figured out however.
The problem of course ( as I see it), is that with these calculators are formatted with the scope at a set height, ie. 1.5".
With an iron sight, the rear and/or front sight are moving physically with each adjustment!
Cat

It's a fair point. You should probably measure height over bore at the front sight for the case of an iron sight. Similar to how a optical sight is measured at the place it doesn't move (some will say this is the turret bell, some will say it is the front objective lens).

I've never heard of iron sight users utilizing a ballistic calculator, so not familiar with the nuance of it.

The Hornady calculator I linked has a setting/parameter for "SIGHT HEIGHT" where you would enter your height over bore.
 
The calculations are only as good as your inputs.
Measuring accurately muzzle Fps, environmental data and ballistic coefficient, followed by proving the data set in a controlled distance and enviroment are all a surefire way to capturing your ballistic data.
You can do this a couple of ways that does not require a chronograph by observation and confirmation for a dirty method that will cost a few rounds.


Measure anything inaccuratly, and you'll be given what you get.

In short, if you half ass it, you're wasting your time.

All the calculaters are the same. Input data, confirm data, output drops.
 
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The calculations are only as good as your inputs.
Measuring accurately muzzle Fps, environmental data and ballistic coefficient, followed by proving the data set in a controlled distance and enviroment are all a surefire way to capturing your ballistic data.
You can do this a couple of ways that does not require a chronograph by observation and confirmation for a dirty method that will cost a few rounds.


Measure anything inaccuratly, and you'll be given what you get.

In short, if you half ass it, you're wasting your time.

All the calculaters are the same. Input data, confirm data, output drops.
Entering everything correctly for sure, as far as BC, velocity, etc.
The biggest issue is when we change bullets or cartridges, it gets frustrating , especially past 500 meters.
Cat
 
It's a fair point. You should probably measure height over bore at the front sight for the case of an iron sight. Similar to how sight sight is measured at the place it doesn't move (some will say this is the turret bell, some will say it is the front objective lens).

I've never heard of iron sight users utilizing a ballistic calculator, so not familiar with the nuance of it.

The Hornady calculator I linked has a setting/parameter for "SIGHT HEIGHT" where you would enter your height over bore.
Here is the problem, we are constantly changing the height of BOTH front and rear sights!
That way, one does not need to elevate the comb. And the rear picture stays more constant .
However. The calculator needs to be adjusted each time and it is takes quite a bit of time.
Cat
 
I feel like you would need to record data on paper. Position of sight height relative to the distance you are shooting, once that is all done you could input actual data, fps, etc, then adjust the app to match your real world data and save it with your sight position as the title.
 
I feel like you would need to record data on paper. Position of sight height relative to the distance you are shooting, once that is all done you could input actual data, fps, etc, then adjust the app to match your real world data and save it with your sight position as the title.

I do, I have books and books of old shooting logs, with different rifles in them!
One of the issues of course, is somebody showing up at the range that cannot get zeroed long, and I have to use a generic table close to what they are shooting - easy inside 500, much harder outside!
The there is the issue of several different bullets in the same rifle, etc.
It never ends, and I like looking at hard copy better because it is easier for me, but things change very quickly at long range.
Cat
 
Jbmballistics.com

You can calculate a bunch of different things, huge number of variables you can adjust to suit and it has a massive bullet library.
 
I feel like you would need to record data on paper. Position of sight height relative to the distance you are shooting, once that is all done you could input actual data, fps, etc, then adjust the app to match your real world data and save it with your sight position as the title.

^^^^ Yes I agree. I will expand on LH's point:

The ballistic calculator app will not tell you what your open iron sight front post and rear notch/peep height should be. You have to derive those reference settings through shooting with a chronograph.

A ballistic calculator generates outputs for bullet drop, windage and spindrift based on your inputs. It will not tell you what to do with your iron sights, other than it asks one input needed for sight height.

The front sight post height is not needed, regardless of how it changes. The height of your rear sight notch bottom, or rear peep center above the bore axis is all that is needed in the app for entering "sight height". Pick one height and go with it for all distances that you enter in the app calculator.

The actual change in front post and rear notch/peep height with distance is so very tiny that it is not a sensitive input in these ballistic calculators. In other words the error factors in the app, plus the atmospherics of the day, and the unique trajectory that your rifle causes, swamp the sensitivity of the very tiny rear sight height change.

No matter how good the ballistic app, and your inputs for (1) muzzle velocity pre-chrono'd with temperature and atmospheric pressure, (2) bullet weight, length, and BC, (3) ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, (4) wind speed and direction/angle, and (5) shooting angle of your position to target in degrees up or down, ...., your unique rifle and brass/neck tension/powder lot/bullet lot all combine to cause derivation from the simple math perfection from the app, and you will inevitably have to adjust elevation and windage slightly from what the app output says, at the longer distances.

But fear not there is good news! Once you have chronographed a reference input muzzle velocity for your: bullet (weight, length, BC), powder charge, and that test day's ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, you are basically mostly there. From here on in, you enter your reference muzzle velocity data for that specific load. Then you enter the new range day's specific day's atmospherics, shooting angle, and the app will calculate the drop and windage adjustments/holds in MOA or MRAD.

Then its up to you to know how to adjust the iron sights to achieve that elevation and windage outputs from the app.

JBM Ballistics is an excellent free online ballistics app. I use the simple "Trajectory" calculator, and manually enter the bullet data (weight, length, BC), rather than use the library.
https://jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml

JBM has a bullet lengths tab in the menu. The bullet manufacturer's website will have the bullet BC. (I prefer to enter these manually, to avoid any programming errors in the look up tables the app is referencing).

On my phone I have another brand's old discontinued ballistics app calculator which is very handy at the range and in long range shooting in cutovers. There are many new phone app ballistics apps available.

The substantial up-front work is generating the muzzle velocity reference data for your rifle for the specific bullet and powder charges, plus the iron sight settings for your distances. Once you have that (no small task), the app makes the adjustments in bullet drop and wind drift based on atmospherics for the day. Its up to you to know how to set the iron sights for that drop and wind drift.

Example: You determined a generic rear sight height for your one "sight height" for all distances. You know from your reference work your front and rear sight settings for load X, for your distances, along with the muzzle velocity for those specific tests. On a new range day, enter the ambient temperature, wind speed and direction, and your shooting angle. The app will show the bullet drop and windage corrections. Use your notes for your your reference irons settings. Now here is the fun part: the app most likely will not be exact. You may be high, low, left or right. You will need sighters to walk into the desired POI. There is no getting around the need for sighters.

Even the world's best F-Class shooters need sighters to adjust the correction for that day, and as the wind shifts, regardless of all their DOPE and sophisticated ballistics apps.

Once you derive that reference data (DOPE), as you develop new loads with different bullets and powder charges, even if they are not chrono'd and documented for drop, you can begin to guesstimate the muzzle velocity, or use what the reloading manual predicts, and enter it. Aim low or high depending, and you will probably get reasonably close. Then adjust the sights as needed for that day. That also gives you new DOPE without having to chrono the new load.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Notes:

Note 1: Humidity is a standard input for all ballistic apps. My Kestrel model does not have a humidity sensor, so I either ignore humidity, or enter the app's default setting, or enter 50%. I have read that humidity is not a major drag factor. Again, the sighters on target will inform you how "wrong" you are.

Note 2: Atmospheric pressure is entered either "station pressure", or corrected to sea level pressure. If entered for sea level, you need to know your altitude. Weather channels on TV and online usually list air pressure corrected to sea level. There is a big difference between these two measures as you gain altitude, so if unsure of this setting, read up on what station pressure is, and how to set your Kestrel or other weather meter to the desired atmospheric pressure input.
 
Here is the problem, we are constantly changing the height of BOTH front and rear sights!
That way, one does not need to elevate the comb. And the rear picture stays more constant .
However. The calculator needs to be adjusted each time and it is takes quite a bit of time.
Cat

That’s what siters are for!

I use Isnipe. Couldn’t get my ammo to Nationals, so ended up running stuff bought off the dcra. Shot 300M and compared my adjustments. Plugged in the figured speed and put me in the 4 for each range.

I’m not understanding why you’re needing to change the calculator? I set my site measurement for 300M as the base line, and get my drop chart. Good to go. Riles tall front, warner rear.
 
That’s what siters are for!

I use Isnipe. Couldn’t get my ammo to Nationals, so ended up running stuff bought off the dcra. Shot 300M and compared my adjustments. Plugged in the figured speed and put me in the 4 for each range.

I’m not understanding why you’re needing to change the calculator? I set my site measurement for 300M as the base line, and get my drop chart. Good to go. Riles tall front, warner rear.

I meant for different bullets and cartridges or different bullets I have to change the calculator. On my Quickload if you change the scope height it also changes the trajectory, but it seems like whatever system I look at , many of the MOA drops are not quite the same , especially when I compare them to actual drops.
I gave up, I went back into four books of notes and compiled what I think will be sufficient for 1:9/ 223 that I am shooting now, when I get my Sportco back I will be able to use my other chart with the 80.5's.:p
Cat
 
OP,
1:9" twist 223 or 223AI w/ which projectile?

Think vernier-MOA
Zero rifle -calculate all from a 100yd/meter distance.
If running a ladder front sight lower the ladder a notch & see how much elevation you've gained,next ladder notch,next ladder notch etc,etc.
Fine tune a few clicks to dope w/ the rear sight...only.

Go back to front sight ladder 100yd/mtr zero.
Depending on your rear sight to front sight radius,dial 1 minute up,again,again to ascertain impacts.
36" sight radius should give you correct subtentions,if a shorter sight radius is in use dope will differ.

With BC & velocities a simple slide rule dope chart is easily compiled.

Creedmoor Sports use to sell 223 & 7.62 Service rifle dope/slide charts that are easily configured for match rifle of various calibers/projectiles.

When the light is up...sights up,when the light is down...sights down...shooting opens more pronounced than shooting glass/any sight.
 
Dans40X, to answer your qustions ,I own three different .223's all of them with a Wylde chamber , a Sportco. Musgrave, and an RPA. None are improved.
Twists are 1:[, 1:8 and 1;7.
Depending on the rifle I shoot anything from 69 grain Seirras to 80 grain Bergers.
My front ladders are 3 and 6 MOA per notch. Some of my rear sights are 1/3 moa and some are 1/4 moa.

I have dope for everything I have ever shot, the issue for me is not learning how to shoot but trying to find some sort of app that is easy to use, and I have given up and have gone back to hard copy pen and paper as it is easier for me to use when shooting .
Cat
 
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iron cat,
The simplest wind/drop calculator that is easily adaptable to any caliber/projectile/velocity-
https://www.creedmoorsports.com/product/m16a2-ar15-wind-calculator/creedmoor_sports_brand

Creedmoor also has the calculator(s) for M1A/M1 Garand service rifles.

I've adapted the system to 22-250,6XC,243,260,'06,300WM for beginner shooters by running the numbers to extend the system to 8,9&1000yds.

I figure all my dope from a 100yd zero w/ a 10mph 90 degree direct cross wind.
5mph-1/2 dope
10mph-full dope
15mph-1.5X dope
etc,etc.

I made the Full,3/4,1/2,1/4 MOA dope(depending on wind direction) inserts from manila folder material written in pencil (ink runs when/if damp/wet)

Puts a SMILE on a newby's face when they are on target w/ their first sighter!!
 
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