Eds red with lanolin

Am I the only one who ponders if a synthetic tranny just doesn't want to wear the clothes?

You're sick tinbird... sick I say.... :p

I don't use the lanolin either. The ATF left after the solvents dry away is already a pretty good rust protection. But I do find that it rubs away fairly easily. So one time I added a dollop of Mobile 1 motor oil. The result was that the surfaces came out noticeably more oily and stayed oily even with regular handling. A table spoon worth per liter is about right if you want to try it.
 
What the purpose of the Lanolin?

ATF provides the protection so why add more to the classic Ed's Red.
 
What the purpose of the Lanolin?

ATF provides the protection so why add more to the classic Ed's Red.

Two things:

1. Greatly improved corrosion protection. If you look at any of the various online corrosion tests of gun care products, ATF typically doesn't do particularly well. Lanolin provides a much more persistent film than ATF, which is fairly low in viscosity.
2. It is much easier on your hands. Acetone, mineral spirits, and kerosene will all strip the natural oil from skin and leave it dry. The lanolin offsets this to some extent.
 
Be careful liquifying solid lanolin if you cannot get the liquid stuff. Use a container suspended in a pot of water on a stove ( double boiler?). Do not use direct heat on a lanolin container.
 
You're sick tinbird... sick I say.... :p

I don't use the lanolin either. The ATF left after the solvents dry away is already a pretty good rust protection. But I do find that it rubs away fairly easily. So one time I added a dollop of Mobile 1 motor oil. The result was that the surfaces came out noticeably more oily and stayed oily even with regular handling. A table spoon worth per liter is about right if you want to try it.
Does it have to be Mobil 1,, I am partial to Quaker State!! ;) just kidding, I suppose 10-30 or straight 30 weight?
I get the liquid lanolin get from Amazon.
 
......2. It is much easier on your hands. Acetone, mineral spirits, and kerosene will all strip the natural oil from skin and leave it dry. The lanolin offsets this to some extent.

Any offsetting it might provide would be insignificant to the damage that the solvents can provide.

The acetone in particular will rapidly strip the natural oils and fats from the skin and allow the solvents and ATF to move through the skin to some depth. If we use this stuff unprotected for long enough at a go it can leach through the skin and into the blood stream where the it can have an effect on internal organs.

Even if the use of it is short term enough that it doesn't make it into the blood it still harms the skin. Do this often enough and even folks that don't normally have skin issues can develop what my doctor called "solvent related eczema". I know because a bunch of years back it happened to me. It was a temporary thing but it was nasty while I had it for a few months. I've been much more studious with wearing and recommending others wear solvent resistant gloves since then.

There's also the fact that some solvents and paint products are very slow to leave the body or don't ever leave and over time will build up and cause trouble with some internal organs.

So don't assume that we are all Supermen and impervious to all this. It'll come back and haunt you later on in life if you don't take care now.
 
Been using Ed's Red without lanolin and acetone. Works fine as CLP, so far.

Acetone is good for cleaning shotgun barrel bore plastic residue, but since I hardly shoot shotgun, it's not critical for me. Acetone is a strong solvent that requires extra care, i.e., it will damage paint and varnish finishes on furniture in addition to the skin damage mentioned in above posts.

The thin ATF film residue is enough to keep my toys rust fre until the next cleaning, or inspection, which can be up to 3 years.
 
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