EGE Arms RV-TAC .410 9.5″ Tactical Revolver Shotgun - First Impressions, Updates...AND WARNINGS

thegazelle

thegazelle

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Super GunNutz
Rating - 100%
64   0   0
Location
Ontario
My fiancee is in town, and took my daughter to get her prom dress / shopping and asked if I wanted to come along. I flatly said no. Once they were gone, I thought I'd visit my local gun store as I recently was browsing (dangerous) and saw the EGE Arms RV-TAC .410 9.5″ Tactical Revolver Shotgun. I like goofy stuff, and never have seen this before. But I have a bunch of .410 rounds for my single shot Turkish gun, and so the thought of a revolver shotgun was compelling.

The price seemed to be pretty good (about $600).

Took it home and put an optic on it and then went to install some other stuff on it, and so initial thoughts...

1. Maybe not everyone else has this impression but I thought the whole idea of a .410 revolver shotgun was pretty cool. I know years ago I read about the Taurus Judge (I think that's what it was) that shot .410 and a .45 or something. Short barrel, very light....

2. I have to say I am impressed with what came with the firearm. Got a box of some chokes, as well as some fillers in case anyone wants to reduce to 3-rounds instead of 5. But there was also a box with accessories that could be installed including 2 x flip sights, 1 x MLOK to Picatinny rail, 1 x MLOK vertical grip, 1 x MLOK angled foregrip. I was pleasantly surprised to have these accessories included.

3. I love the safety location and ergonomics.

4. I don't know whether it is me, but if those are MLOK slots at 6 o'clock, then the screws and T nuts are too short or the slots are too thick. The material is much thicker at the 6 o'clock slots and neither the vertical grip, foregrip nor picatinny rail could be installed. I could see after screwing in, the t-nuts don't even clear the thickness of the slot (and this was with only 1 screw turn to keep the t-nut from falling out. At the other positions, 3 and 9 o'clock, no problems. I also tried to install my Streamlight with mlok and it wouldn't install directly on the 6 o'clock position - same thing - screws are too short so the t nut does not even clear the slot, so if you start tightening, it just straightens the t nuts in the slot and you can pull it out after. Same thing with a Magpul MLOK to picatinny adapter - it wouldn't install in the 6 o'clock slot - slot is too thick for the screw. Strange thing is, that the vertical (MLOK) and angled grip MLOK via Pic adapter) would go nowhere else.

5. The optional MBUS front and rear sights are SUPER TIGHT - I haven't been able to get them on (yet). EDIT - I used a mallet to get them to move while on the picatinnys. Got both front and back installed.

6. I don't know if that handguard is loctited on the left and right sides and not mean to be removed. I used the wrench that came with the set to try to remove it but it started stripping the screw, so I just left it. Just as well as the problem with the slots at the bottom not taking any MLOK accessories is not because of anything but the slot being 1/3 to 1/2 thicker than the other slots.

Will take it to my club tomorrow and report back on performance. Looks like I can shoot it single or double action.
 
Last edited:
So I took this to my club this afternoon...very interesting...

Ammo used was factory S&B .410 3" slugs (and yes, this model supports 3" shells).

See first few photos...


2026-03-08 14-27-57_resize.JPG

2026-03-08 15-46-10_resize.JPG

2026-03-08 15-46-18_resize.JPG

The revolver shotgun seemed to function fine for the first few shots (I used it in single action, never tried it in double action). I hit paper which is good but had to do some optic adjustments Anyways, I thought things were going well until I opened the cylinder and took out the spent hulls. I was alarmed to see what they looked like (I took the following photo when I got home after collecting them all together)

2026-03-08 17-38-53_resize.JPG

Anyways, after I shot the first few, I took the spent hulls back to the clubhouse and showed anyone who was there, all of whom were not sure what would have caused this but the consensus was that it was not normal.

Regardless, the rounds all fired, so I thought in case it is some sort of weird break-in, I thought I'd shoot a few more, inspect and then shoot a few more. Some (3-4 turned out ok, but the rest were charred and deformed like these). Still, I couldn't help but deliberately shouldering the gun but making sure my face was turned far away (probably didn't hit paper but that wasn't my goal at that point)

Now, I did clean the firearm fully after purchase, but also wiped it all down after too - so it wasn't dripping with oil or anything.

I inspected the firearm for any issues - damaged, cracks in the cylinder, nothing...

It was at some point a buddy mentioned that it is good that I had a flash guard / gas guard installed - that came with the gun - as that would ensure not more gas spewed out while I was shooting (I definitely felt gas expel but it wasn't super bad - apparently if those guards weren't there on either side, it would have been much worse).

So then I had a thought / theory, and I THINK this would be plausible.

I thought, maybe because of the gas flash guards, that somehow the gas is being trapped in the front of the cylinder, and with nowhere to go, it is what is cooking and melting the tops of those hulls. I suppose one way to find out is remove those two guards (you see them screwed in with two (2) screws on each side at the front of the cylinder and see what happens. They did come factory installed, so I didn't really want to remove them.

I suspect my theory may be correct, and the behaviour is normal, though there goes me saving those hulls for reloading.

If I am not correct, what else could cause that melting/charring on the hulls? I could try 2 1/2" hulls but I don't have any slug rounds at that length...

Anyways, because of the deformations, it made ejecting them very difficult - the rod would not operate easily likely because the hulls were deformed in the front.

Thoughts welcome...thanks.
 

Attachments

  • 2026-03-08 15-46-18_resize.JPG
    2026-03-08 15-46-18_resize.JPG
    138.5 KB · Views: 38
Last edited:
I would try 2-3/4 ammo and see what it does
Slugs are usually roll crimped too so maybe it’s possible the roll crimp is causing that? Maybe try some normal shot shells too and see what they do
Also make sure your not using a full choke shooting slugs, you could create excess back pressure resulting in more gas being blown out the sides of the revolver
I have the little micro one that TI sells and I’ve been shooting the $hit out of it the last few days and have had no issues like your having
I shot some BPS slugs and had hard extraction with those but their hulls are garbage, all others I’ve shot have been fine
I never tried any 3” in it though
 
Deathrawt said:
I would try 2-3/4 ammo and see what it does
Slugs are usually roll crimped too so maybe it’s possible the roll crimp is causing that? Maybe try some normal shot shells too and see what they do
Also make sure your not using a full choke shooting slugs, you could create excess back pressure resulting in more gas being blown out the sides of the revolver
I have the little micro one that TI sells and I’ve been shooting the $hit out of it the last few days and have had no issues like your having
I shot some BPS slugs and had hard extraction with those but their hulls are garbage, all others I’ve shot have been fine
I never tried any 3” in it though
Click to expand...
Hi thanks for the reply. No, I am using a cylinder (5 line) choke which was pre installed with the gun. Checked that against the manual when I got the gun yesterday to ensure I didn’t have any constricted choke. It is a cylinder choke

Will try to find some 2.5” slugs. I can only shoot slugs at my club.
 
Just a guess, but I’m thinking that given the cylinder isn’t sealed, that the heat generated from firing a round is melting the plastic of the expended rounds. The side that’s melted is probably the side that is closest to the center of the cylinder.
 
thegazelle said:
Hi thanks for the reply. No, I am using a cylinder (5 line) choke which was pre installed with the gun. Checked that against the manual when I got the gun yesterday to ensure I didn’t have any constricted choke. It is a cylinder choke

Will try to find some 2.5” slugs. I can only shoot slugs at my club.
Click to expand...
Yeup!....:(

I'm sorry you bought one of these useless dangerous pieces of sh!t......:(

I hope it does not blow up in your face like mine did.

Those cooked hulls are a great example of how this design is so poor and a ticking time bomb......:(

How many gunpowder burns did you get on your arms? Oh wait, your coat covered your arms. Don't shoot this in the summer.....:( :oops:

And all the fools that state you have to remove one of the gas shield protectors is the stupidest thing I've ever heard......:(

Whoever designed this shotgun, and never realized all the dangerous issues, should be flogged!

Powder burns to your arms, face, and eyes if not careful. Melted and burnt shotgun hulls, gas shields that can blow off while fired, and split the fore-end and the same time, no thanks......:(
 
Really interesting report. Thanks for the detailed explanations. I was very curious about how these would perform. What was the recoil like? Hopefully other new owners chime in with other details. Maybe yours is a lemon but it sure sounds like a design problem.
 
Arcosdad said:
Really interesting report. Thanks for the detailed explanations. I was very curious about how these would perform. What was the recoil like? Hopefully other new owners chime in with other details. Maybe yours is a lemon but it sure sounds like a design problem.
Click to expand...
Recoil was not bothersome...I quite enjoyed shooting it (physically) though psychologically I was petrified after I saw those hulls...that said, glad I found this out now...it was a candidate to be a possible HD tool, but probably not anymore. I can't imagine getting singed or burned during an emergency situation at my own hands....

That said, lots of people were looking at these at the local gun store when I was there. Sales rep said they are hot sellers. I suspect over time, others will chime in (assuming they are on CGN), though there is very little on the EGE RV-TAC...a lot of reports online are for other makes and models.

I may be continuing the hunt for a decent .410 to supplement my single shot.
 
I wish they would have made the reciever frame out of steel instead of aluminum
With the cylinder swung out and if you look at where the barrel is you will see the cut outs that they made in the aluminum for the gas blowby to escape
I think this is a weak spot as there is not much meat there but only time will tell
I’ve been testing some slug loads I made using 357 magnum lead bullets as the slug and so far they have worked not to bad at close range (15 yards)
I was gonna buy some thug slugs from budget shooter but the damn things are almost two bucks a piece!
Plus I still have to load them lol
 
Deathrawt said:
I wish they would have made the reciever frame out of steel instead of aluminum
With the cylinder swung out and if you look at where the barrel is you will see the cut outs that they made in the aluminum for the gas blowby to escape
I think this is a weak spot as there is not much meat there but only time will tell
I’ve been testing some slug loads I made using 357 magnum lead bullets as the slug and so far they have worked not to bad at close range (15 yards)
I was gonna buy some thug slugs from budget shooter but the damn things are almost two bucks a piece!
Plus I still have to load them lol
Click to expand...
Aren't the .38 projectiles small for a .45 caliber bore?

Are the barrels rifled?
 
Deathrawt said:
I wish they would have made the reciever frame out of steel instead of aluminum
With the cylinder swung out and if you look at where the barrel is you will see the cut outs that they made in the aluminum for the gas blowby to escape
I think this is a weak spot as there is not much meat there but only time will tell
I’ve been testing some slug loads I made using 357 magnum lead bullets as the slug and so far they have worked not to bad at close range (15 yards)
I was gonna buy some thug slugs from budget shooter but the damn things are almost two bucks a piece!
Plus I still have to load them lol
Click to expand...
I think I see what you are saying. Due to the left side cylinder gap shield, there is a rounded cut out that vents the gas out and up. On the right side, the curved cut out is on the side, but it is blocked by another shield, so it looks like the gas still expels out and to the side via the gap, which explains why I felt the blast of the gas/debris (felt like a bit of sand) hitting the bench wall and coming back at me.

If you get a chance to try the S&B 3" slugs in yours, let me know how you fare. I found some Troy slugs in 2.5" in retail stores - they are not cheap, but a box may help me to figure out whether the burn continues to happen. It does look like from the charring of the tops of those hulls, that it is about a 1/2" that is being melted.

I was thinking of possibly selling this thing but would I really want someone else to have that experience? Particularly one who is not on CGN and has the benefit of a community of like-minded owners postulating and helping one another to look for causes and solutions? Probably not, which is probably why I will just keep it and experiment some more...but if I can get them working with the 2 1/2" slugs, that may be a novelty reason to keep the gun.

I am still on the fence as to whether it is an unsafe type of situation - we can all agree it is a design shortcoming - I do think the trapped gases are what is burning the hulls. Another guy on the internet using a similar gun (not same make/model) used what looked like 2 1/2" shells - they were Critical Defense which I know are 2.5". Still, in the video you see the gas and debris spraying out.

The shield is a good idea, as long as the gases are able to be expelled somehow. The left side upwards rounded cutout makes sense. I am surprised there is not a corresponding on the right hand side and why the rounded half circle cutout is more or less blocked by that gas shield.
 
Thunderhog said:
Yeup!....:(

I'm sorry you bought one of these useless dangerous pieces of sh!t......:(

I hope it does not blow up in your face like mine did.

Those cooked hulls are a great example of how this design is so poor and a ticking time bomb......:(

How many gunpowder burns did you get on your arms? Oh wait, your coat covered your arms. Don't shoot this in the summer.....:( :oops:

And all the fools that state you have to remove one of the gas shield protectors is the stupidest thing I've ever heard......:(

Whoever designed this shotgun, and never realized all the dangerous issues, should be flogged!

Powder burns to your arms, face, and eyes if not careful. Melted and burnt shotgun hulls, gas shields that can blow off while fired, and split the fore-end and the same time, no thanks......:(
Click to expand...
Yikes...sounds like you had an even worse experience...what as the revolver shotgun you had (make / model), what ammo did you use and what happened?

I haven't seen any review videos on the EGE RV-TAC specifically as make/model...there are other makes/models, and while it is not exactly an apples/apples comparison, one can surmise that functionally they are similar enough that the results can be extrapolated. I have seen other make/models of revolving shotguns as well as lever types, etc. Only videos I have seen on this is the marketing short clip of the Turkish guy with the cowboy hat and sunglasses displaying the model.

In retrospect, I did what I oftentimes keep myself from doing - buying bleeding first generation stuff. As much as I rail about style over substance, I too, confess that I can get caught up in the cool factor (or perceived cool factor). I definitely had a "hmmm" moment when the vertical MLOK grip would not install on the bottom 6 o'clock supposed mlok slot because the slot on the bottom was thicker than on the sides - the t-nut even with only dangling onto the screw by 1 turn, does not even come close to clearing the thickness of the slot wall.
 
Last edited:
Painkillers said:
Aren't the .38 projectiles small for a .45 caliber bore?

Are the barrels rifled?
Click to expand...
They are, but I have them inserted into a wad like a sabbot
No the barrels are not rifled on these
I was trying to just make a cheap ish close range slug for fun shooting or even for defense rounds
The bore on these are actually a 41 caliber
A 45 colt bullet would be way to tight, a 44-40 is still too tight
The ones made to shoot 410 plus 45 colt/acp must have larger bores
 
I mounted a green laser on the pic rail of my Wife's TR-410. She shoots from the hip VERY effectively! I didn't want the cylinder near her face.
She only uses 2.5" shells. Troy #4, S&P 000 buck, and Lightfield home defense buckshot. No issues yet.
We don't hunt.
 
Deathrawt said:
They are, but I have them inserted into a wad like a sabbot
No the barrels are not rifled on these
I was trying to just make a cheap ish close range slug for fun shooting or even for defense rounds
The bore on these are actually a 41 caliber
A 45 colt bullet would be way to tight, a 44-40 is still too tight
The ones made to shoot 410 plus 45 colt/acp must have larger bores
Click to expand...
Interesting.
I almost jumped on one of these (different make and model but Turkish all the same) years ago during the .410 drought. After ordering (it was backordered), I came to my senses and canceled the order. I just didn't have faith in an aluminum revolver keeping it's timing for any length of time. Dissimilar metals butted up to one another also gives me the willies, I know I know, "HaVeN't YOu hEaRd oF An AR bEfOrE"?
Yes, but it still gives me the willies.
 
thegazelle said:
Yikes...sounds like you had an even worse experience...what as the revolver shotgun you had (make / model), what ammo did you use and what happened?

I haven't seen any review videos on the EGE RV-TAC specifically as make/model...there are other makes/models, and while it is not exactly an apples/apples comparison, one can surmise that functionally they are similar enough that the results can be extrapolated. I have seen other make/models of revolving shotguns as well as lever types, etc. Only videos I have seen on this is the marketing short clip of the Turkish guy with the cowboy hat and sunglasses displaying the model.

In retrospect, I did what I oftentimes keep myself from doing - buying bleeding first generation stuff. As much as I rail about style over substance, I too, confess that I can get caught up in the cool factor (or perceived cool factor). I definitely had a "hmmm" moment when the vertical MLOK grip would not install on the bottom 6 o'clock supposed mlok slot because the slot on the bottom was thicker than on the sides - the t-nut even with only dangling onto the screw by 1 turn, does not even come close to clearing the thickness of the slot wall.
Click to expand...
The shotgun that blew up on me was a Canuck Revolving type cylinder 3" chamber.:oops:

I bought it for my wife thinking it would be a fun gun to shoot or plink, and maybe harvest a few grouse.:unsure:

It had an aluminum receiver, a wood stock and fore-piece, and had both single and double action on the trigger.

One cold December day in 2018 I decided to try it out with factory 3" Winchester number 6 shot hunting rounds.

The first six shots fired melted the ends of the plastic fired hulls and made them difficult to remove. I reloaded for a second time with the cylinder full of the aforementioned 3" #6 shot rounds. The first shot fired okay, the second shot went "BOOM"!
The right hand side gas-shield blew off the receiver, all the while tearing the attachment screws out of the same receiver. The force stripped the mounting holes clean, and blew off a chunk of wood from the fore-piece. The gas-shield went into the next county, never to be found. Not even in the spring once the snow melted......:(

Lucky I was wearing a thick winter coat, shooting glasses, and ear protection. One could not shoot this shotgun without eye protection as it spit burnt powder into your face every time it was fired. There were also powder burns on the arms of my winter coat.

After some dialogue with the online dealer, I convinced them to refund all of my money, including the shipping costs. They begrudgingly paid me back. Now I didn't mention the dealer name as they did refund my money. But not without some arguing.

These shotguns are a poor design, and in my opinion a ticking time bomb for their owners. They are all made in the same Turkish Factory and are rebranded under various names. They should recall this garbage and redesign them so there are no powder burns, no powder spit-back, don't burn the plastic hulls, and obviously don't blow up while shooting them. My incident wasn't the only one during this time-frame.

Now the dealer stated the manufacturer was going to design a steel receiver similar model. To date, I never seen one. It doesn't mean they do not exist.

They wanted me to wait for and accept the new steel receiver model. However my wife stated she would never shoot a revolver type 410 shotgun because of the one that blew up in my face.

Luckily, and by the grace of God, I was not injured, however this event could have turned out completely differently without the protective gear I was wearing in December.

I could not in good-faith recommend these type of shotguns to anyone. And I don't care who makes them. They are garbage!

And yes, I have heard and seen the guys who remove one of the protective powder shields in order to make them shoot better. But if one has to do this to a $1000.00 shotgun, no thanks. It absolutely ridiculous as far as I'm concerned.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom