Emerald coating successfull colors

M

Moose_Master

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Montreal
Howdy,
I got kinda bored with the tool blue color I use right now and I would like to try different colors. Unfortunately on their website only the tool blue has the bullets picture and that makes me think that not every color really works. I only want the winning colors.
The tool blue works absolutely perfect with no complaints whatsoever.
If anyone have used successfully other colors I would really appreciate posting it here. If the link would be attached I would take my hat of. And bow respectfully.

Thank you
 
Phantom Glass Black - ht tps://emeraldcoatings.com/product/phantom-glass-black/
Check out the powder coating sticky. I think I have some pics of this one.

Traffic Red - ht tps://emeraldcoatings.com/product/ral-3020-traffic-red/

They used to have a Kawasaki Green that worked quite well too, but I see it is no longer listed.

Auggie D
 
+1 on PGB, very pretty black. And 50c/lb cheaper than TB to boot.

Got the Kubota Orange and Phantom Wet White high gloss but have yet to try it.
https://emeraldcoatings.com/product/phantom-glass-black/
Auggie Doggie said:
Phantom Glass Black - ht tps://emeraldcoatings.com/product/phantom-glass-black/
...
Auggie D
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A friend gave me some lime green to play with. It only put on a very thin, anaemic coating, showing the lead underneath. However, this thin coating allowed me to use bullets coated with it in a .30/30 with a very tight leade. This rifle wouldn't accept bullets coated with any other powder. With this powder coated bullet, I put ten shots into just over two inches at 100 yards with an average m/v of 2050 f/s. So, some of the "crappier" powder can work well.
 
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I use black air soft bb and shake em up. I ordered blue violet, purple red, and sky blue. Only one that works is blue violet. The purple red is very dark red and coats extremely thick. Also doesn't stick very well to the bullets but it does stick very well to my mesh basket. Sky blue doesn't stick very well to the bullet from shaking and what does stick is extremely thin you can see lead through it.
 
I tried bottle green because it was cheap and i was still learning PC, it wont work consistantly. I mixed a bit with tool blue and worked much better.
thanks for the info, will order PGB soon, they dont sell PC at the local Princess Auto.
Be well
 
I have never tried a "flat" specified color mainly because there was a lot of antidotal statements on Castboolits in the early days of PCing that they didn't give satisfactory results unless applied with the appropriate electric gun...even then some complained of the coating not sticking as well as the tried and true colors.

however I have used a "satin" lower lustre black from Emerald and have not been unhappy with the "shake & bake" results within a few parameters...it is a thinner coating than the gloss black by probably 1/2 but I haven't documented anything where it caused problems in shooting them...they worked as well as any.
 
fingers284 said:
I have never tried a "flat" specified color mainly because there was a lot of antidotal statements on Castboolits in the early days of PCing that they didn't give satisfactory results unless applied with the appropriate electric gun...even then some complained of the coating not sticking as well as the tried and true colors.

however I have used a "satin" lower lustre black from Emerald and have not been unhappy with the "shake & bake" results within a few parameters...it is a thinner coating than the gloss black by probably 1/2 but I haven't documented anything where it caused problems in shooting them...they worked as well as any.
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Link to the gloss black you tried?
 
I couldn't tell you that neither...just know I ordered it along with a red & blue color from Emerald and it works passable...don't pay much attention to the RAL/contaminant thing as I don't stick around the stove when a "cook" is happening, usually outside or a long ways away in a large shop.
 
I try to buy tgic-free only. Tgic powders tend to do better at powder coating, but for those that do use tgic-free and cant get powder to stick you can try the following.

1. pre heat, but test as to much heat can make the powder just clump up and give you a mess.
2. Acetone mixed with powder and then shake and bake, but use less powder than normal and not much acetone. This can get messy and give thick coat if you use to much powder.
3. paint thinner and powder but again as in 2 test small quantaties till you get a desired coat.

I have tried 3 above for powders that will not stick using normal shake and bake, its better to use powders known to work but you have other options.

Hammer test on 3 above gives same result as shake and bake with tool blue, so it sticks but it takes more work to figure out the right amounts.
 
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f55 said:
I try to buy tgic-free only. Tgic powders tend to do better at powder coating, but for those that do use tgic-free and cant get powder to stick you can try the following.

1. pre heat, but test as to much heat can make the powder just clump up and give you a mess.
2. Acetone mixed with powder and then shake and bake, but use less powder than normal and not much acetone. This can get messy and give thick coat if you use to much powder.
3. paint thinner and powder but again as in 2 test small quantaties till you get a desired coat.

I have tried 3 above for powders that will not stick using normal shake and bake, its better to use powders known to work but you have other options.

Hammer test on 3 above gives same result as shake and bake with tool blue, so it sticks but it takes more work to figure out the right amounts.
Click to expand...

Is tool blue tgic free? That is why I went for RAL powder but only one of the 3 I got sticks. I might pick up a powder gun and give it a go as I want to try some rifle bullets with exposed lead tips.
 
hometownhero said:
Is tool blue tgic free? That is why I went for RAL powder but only one of the 3 I got sticks. I might pick up a powder gun and give it a go as I want to try some rifle bullets with exposed lead tips.
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Last time i contacted emerald they told me it was tgic-free, but i know they have claimed this with other colors in the past only to find out later they are not tgic-free.
 
Have no idea what tgic is and honestly I don't care as long the colors pointed in above posts are verified and working.
Also I find it a little bit weird to worry about a substance present in the powder when we gather lead WW from various places, sort them one by one, melt lead in ingots, remelt lead ingots in bullets, then handle lead bullets one by one, then coat them, then shoot them while breathing fumes from primers and powder. I thought it was a matter of common sense to handle various chemicals with care, in well ventilated areas and using protection equipment.
As long as the powder it works flawlessly I don't care what chemical the powder has in it. But that's me.
 
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