I have a #4 mk 1 sporter that I am returning to stock form. I plan on putting a No Drill scope mount on it and a cheek rest. I bought a new fore stock from Numrich Arms and I am in the process of fitting it to the rifle. My question for the Knowledgeable is how much " Spring/Tension is there on the front of the trigger guard at the main screw or as some call it the "King Screw"
Enfield assembly question
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Well you need a metal bushing in the forearm where the king screw goes in. The bushing needs to be just the right length / thickness so when the king screw comes in contact with it, the forearm is snug and solidly in contact with the receiver. This also has something to do with the proper upward pressure of the front tip of the forearm on the barrel at the muzzle end, which should be between 3 and 7 pounds.
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- land of f-cktards
lou knows what he's talking about but if you want help milsurps.com also has the armourers pubs you can refer to .........you want to be a "proper" geek don't you LOL 
Question
Are you having a problem with the trigger guard laying flat? Is the trigger guard elevated forward at the trigger guard screw location and require being forced downward?
The raised trigger guard might be caused by the stock not being fully seated in the rear draws area. (Too high)
The trigger guard bushing should be .010 shorter or .010 below the wood surface to allow for slight wood crush. If the fore stock had .020 wood crush the fore stock was to be replaced by the Armourer, excessive wood crush caused the trigger pull to change beyond adjustment limits.
Below is from the Canadian No.4 manual, please note the key word “may” need to be corrected. “MAY” because of excessive wood crush and lack of replacement fore stocks.
The above posting was brought to you from America to force Lou post more bedding photos.
Are you having a problem with the trigger guard laying flat? Is the trigger guard elevated forward at the trigger guard screw location and require being forced downward?
The raised trigger guard might be caused by the stock not being fully seated in the rear draws area. (Too high)
The trigger guard bushing should be .010 shorter or .010 below the wood surface to allow for slight wood crush. If the fore stock had .020 wood crush the fore stock was to be replaced by the Armourer, excessive wood crush caused the trigger pull to change beyond adjustment limits.
Below is from the Canadian No.4 manual, please note the key word “may” need to be corrected. “MAY” because of excessive wood crush and lack of replacement fore stocks.
The above posting was brought to you from America to force Lou post more bedding photos.
lou knows what he's talking about but if you want help milsurps.com also has the armourers pubs you can refer to .........you want to be a "proper" geek don't you LOL
Bigedp51 is Ed Horton and the manual "geek" who donated 90% of the Enfield manuals to milsurps.com.
(Lou uses duck tape, I use super glue and we both read the manuals)
Bigedp51 is Ed Horton and the manual "geek" who donated 90% of the Enfield manuals to milsurps.com.
(Lou uses duck tape, I use super glue and we both read the manuals)
Ed, Nothing wrong with ducktape or super glue. I am using Plumbers Goop
Don’t remove wood from the very rear of the fore stock, if you look at the bedding instructions I posted you only remove-shave wood from bearing (A). Again do not remove wood from bearing (B) in the very rear.
Normally bearing (A) is where all removal and shimming takes place to adjust-tighten the draws.
The draws area forms a tapered wedge and bearing (A) pushes the fore stock to the rear tightening up the rear of the stock and acting like a second bedding screw holding the stock in place.
If you have wood shrinkage or wood crush in the draws area the fore stock becomes loose and is free to “flex” when fired and you will loose “up pressure” at the fore end tip.
Normally bearing (A) is where all removal and shimming takes place to adjust-tighten the draws.
The draws area forms a tapered wedge and bearing (A) pushes the fore stock to the rear tightening up the rear of the stock and acting like a second bedding screw holding the stock in place.
If you have wood shrinkage or wood crush in the draws area the fore stock becomes loose and is free to “flex” when fired and you will loose “up pressure” at the fore end tip.
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I haven't removed any wood from the rear fore stock. What I did was put a layer of bedding compound on the lower half to tighten things up. should the trigger guard have any spring or should it lay flat ? By the looks of your bottom picture it looks like the draws only contact about half of the recoil lugs. seems odd but the same as mine.
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The trigger guard should sit in place easily. You should put the rear screw in first, then the king screw shouldn't "bring down" (or up... depending if you have the rifle upside down when you're working on this) the trigger guard on the forend when you screw it in.
Got to Go, 
I have a question for you Canadians who know Lou………………
Does Lou wear glasses like I do…………….
I want to know if Lou played with his fore end till he almost went blind……..
It’s my understanding that Lou makes extra Enfield money refereeing Basketball and Hockey games…….
Does Lou wear glasses like I do…………….
I want to know if Lou played with his fore end till he almost went blind……..
It’s my understanding that Lou makes extra Enfield money refereeing Basketball and Hockey games…….
