Enfield Guru's? Need help to ID my No4Mk1..

Shifty11

Shifty11

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
45   0   0
Location
“East”
As the title says, I need help to fully ID my No4 Mk1, this is my first Enfield and honestly don't know a whole lot about them along with about this one I have in particular.. I cannot post pictures for some reason so if someone could email me I could send them the pictures to help me ID it and or they could post them here for me!

Thank you, hoping to learn more about my new favourite rifle.

Shifty
 
image_zpsi6xgebk2.jpeg
[/URL][/IMG]

image_zpstlb5jcj3.jpeg
[/URL][/IMG]

image_zpsmymthvsv.jpeg
[/URL][/IMG]


image_zps2ysx7kla.jpeg
[/URL][/IMG]



Here are some pictures... Hopefully they help, and hopefully they arnt too bad (I used my cellphone)
The serial number is the same on the stock, mag, bolt and receiver if that means anything)
 
image_zps6qns05a6.jpeg
[/URL][/IMG]


Here is a number/letter combo someone etched into the side at one point.. And just before the serial in small numbers it's the same etching but just says 151 I believe..

(Previous Post shows a 1943 Dated .303 Round I Found in the Training Area one day.. Thought it was perfect considering the date of mine.
 
image_zpsanzv2mkz.jpeg
[/URL][/IMG]

image_zpsavnpw3s7.jpeg
[/URL][/IMG]

image_zpsvtlvaanx.jpeg
[/URL][/IMG]



All the serial numbers located on the rifle have the same (YF) before it.

Along with on the receiver just before the wood stock (forward half) it has BNP or BMP with a crown over it.

Side of it says...

No4MK1/2(F)FTR
151. YF12982. D-10904

If the pictures don't turn out well.
 
You have a Lee Enfield model No.4 Mk1/2. Essentially, it was a No.4 Mk1 (WWII era) rifle that was rebuilt to the newer No.4 Mk2 (post WWII) standard. this mainly consisted of a new style of trigger that was hung from the receiver rather then the trigger guard. This led to a more consistent trigger pull. Not too familiar with the Brit marking but looks like it was Originally a 1943 BSA Shirley produced No.4 Mk1. I could be wrong on the original make however.

A summary of your markings:

"No.4MK1/2" is the model as I mentioned
"(F)" is "Fazakerley" the mark that the Royal Ordinance Factory fazakerley used. they handles most if not all of the rebuilds.
"151" is actualy "/51" which is the year of the rebuild.
"YF12982" is the Serial Number.
D-10904 seems to be an alternate serial number, purhaps the original? Cant help with that one.
the "BNP" and crown is I believe Birmingham nitro proof, its a a marking required for all firearms sold to civilians in the UK.

The case you posted is actually Canadian, (DI) I beeive was Dominion Industries, "43" is the year and the "Z" meant it used modern Nitrocellulose propellant rather then the older Cordite. Good stuff from what I hear.

Looks like you are missing the screw and nut that would run through the fore-stock just above the trigger, as well the front sling swivel. Should not be too hard to track down either. Other then that you have a very nice rifle. the Mk2 rifle are said to make for the better shooters based on the trigger. The fact that all Serial numbers are matching is a very good thing, that means all the major parts that this rifle had when it was rebuilt are still with the rifle. Often magazines and bolts get mixed up along the way through time.
 
Last edited:
Shifty11 said:
Right on! Thank you for the information! Good buy then?

Shifty11
Click to expand...

Any enfield is a good buy lol. Cleaned up it will make a good shooter and is a legitimate part of Lee Enfield history as well. I would try and track down the stock screw before shooting, I believe that helped keep the rear of the fore end form splitting with the recoil.

A good way to clean up the wood is to take some boiled linseed oil and rub it in real good with a rag. Like real good. the oil will draw out any dirt as well as seal the wood from moisture. Linseed oil was the original factory stock finish.

Keep coming back as I may seem like I know a lot but my knowledge is a fraction to what some of the Milsurp regulars can dish out. They will probably be along shortly.
 
I don't see the piece you need on Marstar or Numerich in the U.S. However, you might be able to track down a sporter (cut down) stock that somebody has replaced and take the screw form that. Probably could get one for shipping alone. Post an add on the EE and see what comes up.

Boiled Linseed oil is tricky, real Pure Boiled linseed oil is not easy to find. You can get some from Canadian Tire but it has drying agents in it that prevent proper absorption (from what I hear anyways). But, in a pinch it will work and I do use it on my rifles until I can find a source for pure stuff.
 
Shifty11 said:
Aha I'm super stoked to shoot it!
I plan on getting the sling mount from Marstar, what is the other part I need for the stock? Is it listed here? https://www.marstar.ca/dynamic/category.jsp?catid=78224

I actually found the case while on Exercise in Petawawa in the training area. Probably been there for many years.

Where can I get linseed oil? Lol I'll do that soon!
Click to expand...

You can find Linseed oil in any Canadian Tire or home hardware. Bear in mind that the rag can spontaneously ignite from the temperature imparted when the oil dries/polymerizes. I've taken to rub the stocks down with my bear hand, but if you do use a rag; 1) keep it oil off the metal. 2) dispose of the rag by submerging in water in a sealed container. DO NOT LEAVE IT BUNDLED UP IN A CORNER OF YOUR AMMO LOCK UP! :)

I'm no expert, but something is odd about the stamping in the wood stock. The font looks older than '43...More like WW1 or older. (the stamps {dies}, not the wood or when it was stamped)
 
Right on, thank you very much. I'll keep coming back here to see if anyone else chirped in..

Also made a post on the EE looking for what I need, so here is hoping!

Shifty
 
plinker 777 said:
You can find Linseed oil in any Canadian Tire or home hardware. Bear in mind that the rag can spontaneously ignite from the temperature imparted when the oil dries/polymerizes. I've taken to rub the stocks down with my bear hand, but if you do use a rag; 1) keep it oil off the metal. 2) dispose of the rag by submerging in water in a sealed container. DO NOT LEAVE IT BUNDLED UP IN A CORNER OF YOUR AMMO LOCK UP! :)

I'm no expert, but something is odd about the stamping in the wood stock. The font looks older than '43...More like WW1 or older. (the stamps {dies}, not the wood or when it was stamped)
Click to expand...



Thanks for the tip on the linseed oil, I'll probably be doing that last :p

Looks odd as in the stamp looks older than the dating of the rifle?
 
Shifty11: I don't think anyone mentioned- the original manufacturer of your rifle was BSA as shown by the M47 code on the left cheek. Later in '43 it became M47C. When you get that nut and bolt for the rear of the forend it doesn't need to be tightened much- all it does is prevent the forend from spreading apart during firing. Looks like a good rifle- I'm still missing a 1/2 in my collection.

milsurpo
 
TheTooner said:
He means the stamp used to mark the rifle's wood seems to be in the style of a period before the No.4 rifles were made.
Click to expand...

Ah okay, understood.

milsurpo said:
Shifty11: I don't think anyone mentioned- the original manufacturer of your rifle was BSA as shown by the M47 code on the left cheek. Later in '43 it became M47C. When you get that nut and bolt for the rear of the forend it doesn't need to be tightened much- all it does is prevent the forend from spreading apart during firing. Looks like a good rifle- I'm still missing a 1/2 in my collection.

milsurpo
Click to expand...

BSA is made in the UK correct?
Built in 43 by BSA
Then rebuilt in 51 by ROF
If I'm understanding everything right?

Perfect. I got a old sporterized forend for free off a friend but I don't believe the brass rod that is in there will fit comparing them both side by side.. So having trouble finding that bolt now.

I want A No1 Mk3 and a Canadian Enfield then I'll be "happy" lol

Shifty
 
Looks like a patched Mk.1 stock that's been altered to Mk.2 specs. I see dowels in it ahead of the screwhole suggesting someone has prepared it for competition.
 
Mk VII said:
Looks like a patched Mk.1 stock that's been altered to Mk.2 specs. I see dowels in it ahead of the screwhole suggesting someone has prepared it for competition.
Click to expand...



So the plot thickens... Dun dun dunnnn.

How would adding the dowels be a sign of that?

Also would it still be fine to shoot even without that stock bolt in the side?
 
It's usually where they've rebuilt the bearings with wooden inserts and pegged them in place. Probably alright without the bolt. I've got several of them here, though not the nut (which might still be present).
 
Mk VII said:
It's usually where they've rebuilt the bearings with wooden inserts and pegged them in place. Probably alright without the bolt. I've got several of them here, though not the nut (which might still be present).
Click to expand...



How do I tell if the nut is still there or not?
Willing to part with said bolt?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom