Enfield head space

Duanebg

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So this question is an extension of one that I asked in reloading. I have a sportarized enfield and have just started reloading for it. What I'm gathering is the head space can be loose because these were meant to fire dirty etc. how do I tell if I need to adjust it? Can I check myself or do I need gauges? I have once fired brass that I've put through it and it's shorter then the max case length in the manuals.

I guess I'm looking to simplify my reloading process in the end and extend brass life without buying another set of dies.
 
Reloading for Enfields is really hard. It seems if you go above the minimum loads you will have case/head separation issues. When you open the bolt after firing, your once fired brass will split in two and the head will fall out, leaving you picking at the rest of the casing that's stuck in the chamber.

This is because once the primer ignites, the casing expands into the chamber walls and there's still room for the head to push back against the bolt. This tiny amount of space is the problem.

It's hard to explain this exactly without a picture, but I'll try my best:

* Firing pin is released, it hits the primer and pushes the cartridge forward in the chamber.
* The propellant ignites, and the brass expands into the chamber walls.
* The brass sticks to the chamber walls, but there's still room for the head to be pushed back against the bolt.
* The amount of distance that the head travels back to the bolt causes the brass to stretch back a bit, causing a crack in the brass.
* When you open the bolt, your brass is cracked, or completely separated

One instant solution is to wrap some dental floss around in front of the rim, it makes it harder to close the bolt but will solve the problem. You have to make sure the bolt closes though, it can't be half assed. Some guys buy those tiny little o-rings but I just used floss.

Another solution is to get another bolt head, there's sizes #0 to #3 with #3 pushing the most against the chamber (less head space). Basically, this isn't an instant solution, you still need to gauge it to make sure the other head is safe. They're also hard to come by, check your head to see what number you have.

You can also size only the neck on your once fired brass, this way the brass is already expanded when you put it in the chamber.

I basically gave up on reloading high velocity for this rifle and just use it for hunting, it's too expensive to fire more than 20 rounds at the range for me. I have my hunting Enfield which is a #4 Parker-Hale, and it's the fuddiest rifle on the planet, with leather tassles on the sling. My other Enfield I just use to fire cast boolits which I buy from a guy off the forum. I load these with pistol powder and they go about 1600fps and I can plink for about 25 cents a shot with no recoil. Like you can hold the rifle to your crotch and fire at the moon all night with these loads.

Canadians don't need full power rounds to practice with, we're genetically gifted with these rifles already, and everyone should be issued one at birth to protect against polar bears and zombies.
 
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These are wonderful rifles to reload in my opinion. Buy new brass and a Lee Loader which only neck sizes. I cast my own 185gr bullet and have found 13.5gr of Trail Boss to be very accurate out to 50 yards. I don't remember how many times I've reloaded the brass without any issue's. The brass has been used in minimum powder loads also and has been full length sized in the past but not any more. Clean and check your brass after shooting and look for signs of potential failure, you can find a higher number of bolt head at gun shows. I never have added anything to the rim, either the headspace is good or it isn't. They are not the brass eaters that many people think. I had a 1917 SMLE with not so good headspace which I always loaded full loads. Had a few split cases and 2 case head separations but the majority of brass lasted for many reloads. Load carefully, inspect the brass and enjoy.
 
The thing with any rimmed cartridge is that it headspace on the rim, not on the shoulder of the case, therefore, the chamber could technically be a one inch diameter open cylinder, but it would still show correct headspace.
I just got a set of Lee collet dies for .303 and I found they even push the fire formed shoulder back because it is so far forward due to the long chamber. You'll most likely find a bulge just forward of the case web as well. The big chamber was good for combat, but not friendly for reloading.
You can envision the cartridge floating free in space inside the chamber supported by the rim.
A gunsmith can check the headspace, but changing bolt heads won't make much difference to the oversize chamber.
 
Use a Lee collet neck sizer. I find the cases rarely need to be trimmed.
If you can find privi brass or ammo that will help. The rims are thicker than other brands .

I haven't had any problems loading for 303.
 
Neck sizing only is fine, until you expend your Lee Enfild collection with multiple rifles/models. Then you have multiple different chamber dimensions. Then you have the choice of: A-mark and sort your brass for each rifle. Or B- full size your brass so it can be fired with any of your rifle.
 
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