Erasing checkering job.... poorly done

Westicle

Westicle

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I wonder if there is a way to erase a bad checkering job, I was thinking something like JB weld to fill it in like bondo and then sand it down till the grip was back to original size again and then have a paint job or powder coat done to it.

what do you guys think ??

the checkering job is horid.... all I can say is thank the lord there are wrap around grips on this thing right now.... I threw up in my mouth after seeing how bad of a job it is.
 
If it's a quality piece of wood you either re-profile the stock and refinish or you use a very sharp chisel and cut away the checkering within the pattern very carefully. Then carefully sand the area inside the pattern borders, refinish the area and then rechecker it. This gives you a recessed checkering pattern similar to what Alvin Biesen did on his top of the line custom stocks. Doing that depends a lot on how deeply it was cut to begin with (coarse checkering is much deeper than fine) and how symmetrical the borders of the existing pattern are. If it's not a high grade wood to begin with fill it up with Bondo if you like and paint.
 
Bead blast the finish off of the stock and use a poly fill such as bondo, works great. I did a birch stock with it and painted it after, turned out great!
 
Sounds like a 1911???

If you can live with one of the paint job type finishes, you're on the right track - fill it in, sand it down and paint the whole frame :)

If not, there aren't many optiions - and none of them are cheap! A new checkered panel inletted into the front of the grip area is the best way, but the cost exceeds that of another frame :) Measure up the area and if there's at least .050" left, file off all the checkering and refinish. There won't, of course be enough steel left to re-checker...

Gunnar

www.armco-guns.com

Good luck, Wes :)
 
the gun is a browning hipower , and we are talking checkering on the frame, bare metal... not grips.

so do you think filling in the whole area with JB weld will do the trick ?? or is there something else I should use ??
 
Bondo actually holds pretty well in metal. I prefer to use epoxy and WEST 410. JB Weld would probably be hard to sand since it is designed to be steel like. It can be hard to stop dissimilar metals/etc... from "printing through" a paint job. Looks great for a while but the materials accomodate at different rates. If that happens the wayward checkering may re-emerge. In that regard filling it with another metal can work better like bronze though the heat might wreck a frame.
 
Westicle said:
unfortunatly my digital camera went t**s up last week.... and to broke to replace it right now.

I will post when I can...
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no probem, mail me the pistol and I'll take a picture of it for you....

I'll get it back to you eventually........you said it was a CZ? Good! I don't have one of those yet........:D
 
There was someone trying to sell a BHP on the exchange forum a few months ago. It had a frontstrap checkering jib from a profesional gunsmith according to the sales blurb. It was incredibly bad work!

Can you stipple over the checkering deep and densly enough to mask the checkering? How about a set of Packmayers? Do you know a real good tig welder?
 
jbunny: Why would you assume that I don't have those books or tools at my disposal or available? Diamond laps and knife edge stones are what I use for resharpening. Grobet checkering files are used for the layout of the cutting teeth on the unhardened steel.
 
buckbrush said:
There was someone trying to sell a BHP on the exchange forum a few months ago. It had a frontstrap checkering jib from a profesional gunsmith according to the sales blurb. It was incredibly bad work!

Can you stipple over the checkering deep and densly enough to mask the checkering? How about a set of Packmayers? Do you know a real good tig welder?
Click to expand...

All great suggestions, the Pachmayrs suggestion's a quick fix for sure.
 
Ardent said:
All great suggestions, the Pachmayrs suggestion's a quick fix for sure.
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the pac's are on it.... but you know it would be nice to have some spegal wood on it once in a while.

back tothe welding, I know lots of welders,.... could they fill everything in with a tig without warping the frame ?
 
I took a PYRAMID stippling punch to the horrible im pressed "checkering" on my Rem 600.

Then I wire brushed all the loose slivers of wood out, and coated with Polyurethane Varnish. Nice rough texture, and I've had several comments from others that it looks and feels great.

Maybe great is abit too m,uch, but it is a VAST improvement over the old ugly stuff.
 
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