Error of Parallaxe

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soditide

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I want to put a rimefire scope on my CZ 455 Lux in 22lr and i just want to knows if the scope is setted at 60 yards at the factory and i try to shot at 200 yards. do i have a parallaxe error?

Do i have an error of parallaxe if i try to shot at 25 yards?

I'm looking to buy Leupold VX1 2X7X28 ( parallaxe setted at 50 yards )

It's for target shooting only

Is it better if i buy a scope with a parallaxe adjustent knob like the Vortex Diamondback HP 2X8X32 or i spend my money for nothing.

thanks
 
parallax is caused by viewing the same object at different lines of sight. Not really sure what you are trying to say.
Parallax:
300px-Parallax_Example.svg.png
 
A consistent cheek weld is important.
I like adjustable parallax for target shooting up close.
I can't really think of a down side( beyond cost and availlability) to a scope with adjustable parallax when it comes to target shooting with a .22lr...

Hunting is a bit different in that it's better to have less variables and the minute advantage in accuracy is not necessary.

I'd prefer the adjustment to be on the scope body and not the objective lens and I like mildots for shooting at longer ranges.
Larger magnification (at least 15X) is nice because you can see small holes at 100 yards.
Bushnell has some nice models that pop up used for around $400-600 and have a lifetime no paperwork transferable warranty now similar to Leuopold and Vortex.

What's your budget?
 
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$400.00. I'm looking for the Vortex Diamondback HP 2X8X32 with side parallaxe or the Leupold 2X7X28 with no parallaxe adjustment. It's for my CZ455 Lux. I want a small objective to clear the rear sight. I love the classic look of the Leupold. His parallaxe is adjusted at 60 yards at factory.

i just want to knows if the scope is setted at 60 yards at the factory and i try to shot at 200 yards. do i have a parallaxe error?

Do i have an error of parallaxe if i try to shot at 25 yards?
 
Most of the time the parallax issue is close range with non rimfire scopes.
The adjustable objective allows compensation for this with an adjustment whether
the AO front ring or right side knob.
It's up to you to decide whether this is an issue or not.
Groups can get tighter with less cross hair movement at closer range than
the parameters of the scope allows.
I've just removed a bunch of parallax from a Leupold scope by doing my own
adjustments and am pleased with the results.
BUT, proceed at your own risk.
 
Parallax is only a problem if you do not have a nice, consistent cheek weld.

If your scope is set to 60 yards, that means when you move your head behind the scope, your reticle will not move around on the target. At a shorter or longer distance (say, 25 and 100 yards) as you move your head around behind the scope, the reticle will also move around on the target. If you have a good, consistent cheek weld, and your scope is set at the right height and eye relief, then parralax is not an issue. If you set your scope to have just a little bit of the inside of the scope visible, you can use that black ring to make sure your scope is centered in your vision.

If you are just punching paper for the sake of doing so, then it doesn't really matter what you put on there. If you want to compete, or want the thing that'll help you shoot better groups without as much effort, then having a scope with a the parallax adjustment might be the way to go. (Im not saying having a scope without it makes you better or anything, Im just suggesting there are ways to do just as good with a conventional scope, and if you really wanted to improve YOUR skill, then maybe thats the better option.)

Im looking to get something for my 270 thats a 4-12 or 4-16 with AO, because I want to be able to eliminate me as the error in testing accuracy of the gun with various factory ammo, and handloads when I start doing that.
 
Lots of good feedback from others. I would also consider the fact that most AO scopes are much larger than your first option. A scope with AO will force you to mount the scope higher to clear the rear sight and bolt on your 455 lux. That may be ok if you are planning to shoot off a bench/rest but not very good for off hand shooting (you won't get a good cheek weld). If your main intention is to shoot targets free hand I would go with the VX1 2-7 x 28 and not worry about the small parallax error (great scope BTW). You will be able to mount the scope low as it fits behind the LUX's rear sight and that will result in a firm and consistent cheek weld on the hogback style stock (=minimizing issues with parallax).
 
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I just picked up that same scope and had to slide it back a bit to prevent the bolt from making
contact with the rear bell.
This was on my new CZ 452 in 17HMR.

Fun Fun Fun

Kerrrrrrrrrrtwackkk..........
 
Parallax will increase your grouping size outside the set range unless you hold your eye at the exact same spot each and every shot.

Simple test. Lock the rifle down and aim at a small spot. Then move your eye/head around at the different ranges. The cross hair will move around your point of aim. This is now your minimum size of group you can expect. The farther out you go the bigger the error. You can adjust some scopes to a specific range to correct for parallax buy adjusting the objective lens but you have to be careful. Move it too much and you will lose the dry inert gas inside. Small tweaks are possible. I have set my scopes for 0 parallax for the range I shoot at. This is also something that you don't want to do all the time. So if you are shooting different ranges buy an adjustable scope, a scope for each distance or teach yourself to be consistent with your check weld.
 
Exactly what Suther said. Parallax error is possible at any distance except for what the scope is set for. With adjustable parallax, you can set that distance to remove the possibility of this error. Again, this is only if there isn't a consistent cheek weld. I bought an AccuScope cover for one of my rimfire scopes and it has worked wells so far:

http://www.solware.co.uk/air-pistol-air-rifle/AccuCover-Overview.shtml

It simply provides a visual indication of whether or not you're looking through the scope the same each time. Simply line up the reticle with the four arrows and your set. No parallax when lined up.

With that being said, the concept is simple enough that you can get any scope cover and simply draw/paint your own arrows on it to achieve the same effect.
 
Beermaker said:
Parallax will increase your grouping size outside the set range unless you hold your eye at the exact same spot each and every shot.

Simple test. Lock the rifle down and aim at a small spot. Then move your eye/head around at the different ranges. The cross hair will move around your point of aim. This is now your minimum size of group you can expect. The farther out you go the bigger the error.
Click to expand...

No, that is not the minimum size group you can expect. Rather, that is the maximum parallax error that you can experience at that range, with that scope, unless you keep your eye properly centered behind the scope. Doing that test as described will be helpful, because it will show you that the maximum error possible is a lot smaller than you have probably been led to believe. By achieving a good cheek weld and a consistent, centered eye position, you can print groups as small as the rifle allows and parallax will not exist.

We should soon be hearing from one of the experts who has posted on this topic in other threads...he claims that his 14-inch groups at 30 or 40 yards are entirely due to parallax issues. Perform the above test and you will see what a ridiculous idea this is.
 
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