Expanding mandrels in Canada

In my case, I plan to neck-turn new brass. So I'm planning to full-length size it first, just to make sure any non-centricity is corrected and dents are ironed out. Then, with my expander die, a pass over the expander mandrel. After that, the turning mandrel in my turning tool. Does this seem like sound procedure?
 
In the 21st Century and old style Sinclair turning and expanding mandrels, there is no difference, other than perhaps the finishes available, and that Sinclair only offered one size of sizing mandrel. 21st Century made the Sinclair expanders up til a couple of yrs ago, about the time the ones with windows in them appeared, then Sinclair got into the threaded ones, which are no longer interchangeable in the die bodies. I have Sinclair expanders and turning mandrels here, the turning version is just a say a .282 for 284, .306 for a 308. What I like about the 21st century stuff, is the interchangeability thru the neck tool and trim tools. One mandrel works in all 3 systems.
 
South Pender:

We do not recommend FL sizing new brass, especially Lapua brass as it is unnecessary. Use a mandrel for your neck-turning toll that will make a fit with minimal clearance.

If not turning use a mandrel to expand the ID of new Lapua brass as it is often tight. We use 21st Century kit.

Regards,

Peter
 
In my case, I plan to neck-turn new brass. So I'm planning to full-length size it first, just to make sure any non-centricity is corrected and dents are ironed out. Then, with my expander die, a pass over the expander mandrel. After that, the turning mandrel in my turning tool. Does this seem like sound procedure?

curious , is the neck turning proven necessary for your brass and chamber? or is this an accuracy step?
 
South Pender:

We do not recommend FL sizing new brass, especially Lapua brass as it is unnecessary. Use a mandrel for your neck-turning toll that will make a fit with minimal clearance.

If not turning use a mandrel to expand the ID of new Lapua brass as it is often tight. We use 21st Century kit.

Regards,

Peter

That's interesting, Peter. I had thought that a pass through a FL die prior to the expander mandrel might be a good idea in case there was any out-of-roundness in the brass in the neck.

Boxhitch, it's for accuracy.
 
huh

along that thought line, how do you treat your necks before seating, in the way of contact surface. squeaky clean brass? case lube?

I don't know whether this question is for me, but I don't do anything out of the ordinary to the inside necks before seating. After a firing, I may brush the necks with a dry brush to remove any carbon, but then use LE Wilson bushing neck sizing dies. I usually put my resized cases into my tumbler for a dry tumbling with walnut shell media for a short time to get them clean before charging and seating.
 
yes , you ;)
I'm getting some odd ES's, and came up with a ?? about the neck/bullet interface consistency, if thats a term
some dry, some slippery, just wondering, always thinking.....
 
yes , you ;)
I'm getting some odd ES's, and came up with a ?? about the neck/bullet interface consistency, if thats a term
some dry, some slippery, just wondering, always thinking.....

FWIW, if you load shiny new brass and it sits for a while you could get a cold weld between the bullet and the case neck. When I load new brass I dip the necks in graphite before seating the bullet. On fired brass I leave the carbon build-up in the neck to reduce the chance of a cold weld happening.
 
I like those ideas. Am switching to Lee collet dies to try, mostly to avoid the inside neck lube
another option have read is to load long and then set final oal the day of a shoot
 
I use Sinclair die and carbide mandrels wich are .0025 smaller than bullet diameter to set bullet interference. I bought directly from Brownell without issue.
 
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