Expected range & accuracy of .243win?

6mm be it 243win or 6mm rem

Both of these are great calibers for the 1000 meter shoots, the only problem is in the factory barrels the twist rate is too slow to stabilize the VLD bullets used. You have bite the (bullet) so to speak and have a custom barrel put on with a twist of 1 in 8.
 
Just out of curiousity, how much would an aftermarket barrel with a decent twist (1:8?) cost me for this 243? Also, if I was to keep the original stock, would the new barrel be a waste? I keep hearing everyone talk about needing an aftermarket stock to increase their accuracy.
 
b72471 said:
Both of these are great calibers for the 1000 meter shoots, the only problem is in the factory barrels the twist rate is too slow to stabilize the VLD bullets used. You have bite the (bullet) so to speak and have a custom barrel put on with a twist of 1 in 8.


my factory Savage 12bvss with 1:9.25 twist 26in bbl shot 105 gr Amax, berger, and Lapua scenar all equally well, and better than 95 gr Lapua and 87gr amax. I do believe that the twist must be less than 1:10, but 1:8 is not required.
 
twist rate is related to muzzle velocity and atmospheric conditions as well. A 243 will drive these heavies to a higher velocity then a 6BR improved so can tolerate a slightly slower twist. Plus, marginal bullet stability may look ok at 100yds but when that bullet slows down at say 900yds, it make start to destabilize with accuracy going south most spectacularly (starts to wobble).

Change the humidity/temp/barometric pressure and what was may no longer be stable. That is why most simply spin the bullets a bit more then necessary. Covers your butt at different ranges and weather.

The only way to know how it will do at an extended distance (bullet or ammo) is to simply shoot it that far under your atmospheric conditions.

Jerry
 
Good post, as usual Jerry. The Remington 243 barrel should be 1-9, same as thier 6mm. I use this twist in 243, 6mm Rem, and 6-284 regularly with no LR problems out to 700 meters. I'll probably step on a few toes here, but a well bedded factory stock will enhance the accuracy of the firearm much better then a hack job on a McMillan. You don't NEED all the bells an whistles to start LR shooting, take your rifle to the range, find a load or two with a decent LR bullet, and shoot, shoot, shoot. We all seem to be caught up in "gadgetitis" when it comes to our guns (as what red blooded male wouldn't be?), but you really don't have to have all that stuff. A good shot with an average rifle will almost always outdo a bad shot with an outstanding rifle, you can't buy skill and bolt it on your gun, all you can do is practice. - dan
 
Jeremy said:
Right now, I have Winchester Supreme 95gr Ballistic Silvertip ammo. How do you guys think this would fare on the longer ranges?

Don't waste your time. To shoot long range with a .243 you must precision handload with vld bullets. The off the shelf ammo will not cut it. you can't buy match ammo in 243 Win. Learn to handload.
 
VLD Bullets at 1000 METERS

Before re-barreling do your homework on the rate of twist required to stabilize these out to the range you want to shoot. Sierra clearly states their 107gr requires a 1 in 8 or faster twist.
 
It will go easily to 1000yd, what you get with the longer heavier bullets is better sustained velocity; the greatest preturbence to a bullet usually occurs as it goes down through the Mach barrier (sub-sonic). Also, the longer a bullet is in the air, the more it will be affected by wind.

A .243 hunting rifle firing hunting bullets will go to 1000, but it will be unlikely to deliver consistent groups.
 
Jeremy said:
Just out of curiousity, how much would an aftermarket barrel with a decent twist (1:8?) cost me for this 243? Also, if I was to keep the original stock, would the new barrel be a waste? I keep hearing everyone talk about needing an aftermarket stock to increase their accuracy.

A custom barrel is a better investment than is a custom stock when you are starting out. I haven't bought a barrel in a couple of years, but I would think that you could have one chambered, threaded and installed on your action for about $500.00.

If you choose a larger contour of barrel, your present stock would need to have the barrel channel opened up, and while this is being done the action could also be bedded. A target/sniper style stock will not make your rifle more accurate, however it will make it easier to shoot your rifle accurately. These stocks often feature wide forends, vertical pistol grips, adjustable lengths of pull, all which work to make the rifle more stable on a sand bag, fit the shape of your body slightly better, and perhaps improve the angle of your finger to the trigger. Want to hear the kicker - you spend five hundred to a thousand bucks on a custom stock - it must still be bedded to your action otherwise you might actually loose accuracy compared to the factory stock. All actions are individuals with no two being identical - do not believe in "drop in stocks" - this works more by accident than by design.

Load up some ammo and start shooting your rifle as it is. When you see that your rifle has some short comings address those. If you go whole hog right now on a long range outfit, it could cost you thousands of dollars without giving you the benefit you think it should. You'll be quickly disheartened and probably sell the outfit at a loss. Buying an expensive rifle does not make you a long range shooter - shooting at long range makes you a long range shooter. To get started a good quality 10X or 12X scope with target turrets, and a 20 minute base will be a big help.

You can of coarse shoot long range and have good results with some of the better hunting bullets. I personally think that match bullets are better for this game, and will probably be cheaper than premium hunting bullets. To get good results on the range you must be able to produce high quality ammo, and the only way to do that is to get annal about your tolerances. There is no such thing as good enough, things like your bullet seating depth must be exactly the same round to round. Build consistency into your ammo, and you will get consistent results on the range. Without consistent results on the range, you will not be able to determine where you need to improve either your technique or your equipment.
 
Boomer, well put indeed.

Stocks provide one of the lowest returns for the investment. They are very important yes, but the last place I would spend my funds in a first rifle.

Stocks need to be rigid and have a shape that helps the shooter accomplish the style of shooting desired. The stock material really doesn't matter unless rain is a concern. Wood, plywood, plastic, composites, alum - titanium tubs all do EXACTLY the same thing.

I have built many rifles over the years using modified factory stocks, making my own stocks and buying aftermarket. Except for better shape, no stock showed a huge improvement in accuracy.

Proper bedding showed the largest benefit regardless of the stock used.

To start, you need to reload proper ammo (check the chamber is true, no runout). This has the largest return on investment. Then have the factory stock bedded properly (yes, they can be done poorly too) and the foreend opened up to free float most of the barrel.

Adjust or replace that trigger. This is the second most important thing you can do after bedding the stock. The trigger is the main interface with the rifle - it matters.

Stock fit is next. Cut, build up, whatever it takes to make that stock fit you and the rests you plan to use. I have a post elsewhere to show what can be done with those factory stocks. A few hours work and less then $10 worth of material and you have a custom stock.

Optics as good as you can afford in mounts that don't move.

From there, practise, practise, practise. After a few thousand rds, you will get a feel for what you need to move to the next level.

Sure, spend the money on the best of everything then. All you need to do is attend a few shoots or look at scores w/equipment lists. Many have super bling rifles but the scores are worlds apart.

Equipment will never get you a win but may be the last ingredient AFTER you know how to get into the top 10. For Precision shooting in any format, that is being able to read conditions perfectly then being able to drive that bullet where it needs to go.

Jerry
 
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