Experienced gunsmith for 6.5 x 47mm Lapua

358Scout

358Scout

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I don't want to sound rude but, I'm looking for an experienced gunsmith to chamber a barrel for the 6.5x47 Lapua on my Rem. 700. I am not interested in one who has done similar work or would be willing to buy a reamer.

If your "ECSTATIC" with the results on your 6.5 x 47 Lapua, I would appreciate your recommendations.
 
Dennis Sorrinson (guntech here) is easily capable of what you want.

I don't own a 6.5X47, but I own many other rifles (dozens) built by Guntech that are easily capable of competitive accuracy. For instance my 8 twist 223 (Wilde) provides frequent .1's and yet it is not a bench rest cartridge....not even close.

Ask anyone around here and you will find Guntech more than qualified.
 
Guys,
I finally found out why my 6.5 X 47 just wont shoot. Instead of the rib at 12 o clock, I have a flute there. Do you think that If I take my rifle to my smith he will warranty his work?:D
 
greenpasture said:
I am sorry if I offended anyone. Isn't there a proper way to install a fluted barrel? I read that the timing or indexing (?) should have the rib or trough at top dead center.

Are smiths just screwing them on without doing this? I know they still work. ..maybe the article was wrong.
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If the barrel has been properly stressed-relieved and fluted, it doesn't matter were the flutes wind up - except from an aesthetic point of view, Muzzle brakes are a different story.

Personally, I have little use for fluted barrels. Too much potential for problem and too little potential gain.
 
Obtunded said:
Personally, I have little use for fluted barrels. Too much potential for problem and too little potential gain.
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I'm really curious as to what kind of problems... Could you please elaborate? I've been using a fluted barrel for about a year and a half now, can't say I've had barrel related issues thus far... Cleaning the flutes is a pain in the ass, but that's about it.
 
From the talk I've had with a few smiths they are more of a PITA to work with when building a rifle. Nothing major just not worth the hassle for what little, if any gain you get.
 
redman said:
I'm really curious as to what kind of problems... Could you please elaborate? I've been using a fluted barrel for about a year and a half now, can't say I've had barrel related issues thus far... Cleaning the flutes is a pain in the ass, but that's about it.
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Not all fluted barrels are a problem, but fluting is a mechanical form of stress relieving. (This is going to cause another $hit throwing session...) Button-rifled barrels in particular are succeptible to the build-up of latent stresses. Carving strips down those barrels that have both issues with sub-optimal homoginicity (all barrel manufacturer's steel can be affected, regardless of rifling process) and with latent stresses, results in the potential for either slight warping after fluting (rare), or warping as the barrel heats up during firing (far more common).

In barrels with excellent steel homogenicity, the phenomenon can still occur if the flutes are not absolutely uniform in terms of depth, width and spacing between flutes.

Not all fluted barrels are bad, but the fluting process certainly creates the potential to screw-up what would otherwise be a flawless barrel. Some barrel manufacturers actually void their warranty if you flute their barrels.

You're better off bead-blasting a barrel for improved cooling or buying a lighter contour if weight is an issue.
 
Paint the barrel flat black and it will cool off about the quickest...

Fluting will never increase the accuracy of a barrel... it can do nothing but reduce weight and possibly reduce accuracy.
 
Paint the barrel flat black and it will cool off about the quickest...

Fluting will never increase the accuracy of a barrel... it can do nothing but reduce weight and possibly reduce accuracy.

The top flute should be level with the action for the best look within the barrel channel.
 
Obtunded said:
fluting is a mechanical form of stress relieving. (This is going to cause another $hit throwing session...) Button-rifled barrels in particular are succeptible to the build-up of latent stresses. [...] You're better off bead-blasting a barrel for improved cooling or buying a lighter contour if weight is an issue.
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Any particular issue with fluting cold-hammer forged barrels? I always understood that the whole point of fluting was to reduce weight whilst maintaining rigidity...

guntech said:
Paint the barrel flat black and it will cool off about the quickest...
[...]
The top flute should be level with the action for the best look within the barrel channel.
Click to expand...

I'm far from being a gunsmith, but that has to be some 'smith sarcasm ;)

Still waiting for my prize, guntech :mad:
 
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