Extended Choke tubes

Are extended chokes really that much better than a the flush tubes.:confused:
Sometimes. If the factory choke tubes aren't patterning the way you'd like then the extendeds can be of some benefit. One of the side benefits of extended is that they protect the muzzle of the gun somewhat.
 
And most extended chokes don't need a wrench to remove. ie: between rounds in sporting clays or hunting if birds are coming in closer or further away, quick change outs.
 
Are extended chokes really that much better than a the flush tubes.:confused:

I just had an old wingmaster barrel done by Briley and this time I paid extra to have the extended tubes. So far I really like them on the skeet/ trap field just for the quickness of removal and no wrench required.
 
And most extended chokes don't need a wrench to remove. ie: between rounds in sporting clays or hunting if birds are coming in closer or further away, quick change outs.
That's true. However the downside of hand tightening is that the tubes can loosen when fired. I've seen target shooters get into the very bad habit of hand tightening their choke tubes just before they shoot. :eek:
 
I like the ones that are color coded so I don't have to get my reading glasses out. I can see the advantage of being changable in sporting clays, but I don't see the need for speed. I think that there is a cool factor. If you're into that its OK.

rembolt, if you are asking if they actually shoot or pattern better? I have never seen any real proof that they do.
 
The big thing i like about extended chokes is that I can remove them with a quarter if I want to, and it is easier for me to identify them.
I really don't shoot any better with them and I do my aftermarket flush mount chokes - OR my factory chokes that I use on some of my guns.
I did fins that when i out my guns with extended chokes into a one piece hunting case , they sometimes ripped the lining, and that extended chokes make a SXS just plain FUGLY!!:eek:
Cat
 
Extended tubes are better, because I have convinced myself that I can hit targets with them better. That belief alone makes them worth it.

THank goodness polka dots don't make me shoot better.

THe easy change and colour coding is helpful too.
J
 
I like the extended choke tubes for when I am out in the blind or blasting crows. I can reach up at any time to see if they are still snug , and If i decide to change chokes I can simply unscrew them without the need of a wrench. I have had good results with my Carlson blackcloud chokes...and they are priced lower then a lot of the competition
 
American writer/researcher Tom Roster has patterned literally thousands of rounds in empirical testing of chokes & chokes tubes with both lead and steel shot ... as well as having done considerable parallel research on chambers, bores and forcing cones.

Some of the highlights I remember from reading his stuff was that he found no significant advantage, all other factors being equal, to ( 12 gauge ) bores being overbored to more than .740", nor forcing cones longer than 2-1/2". As to chokes, parallel/conical designs performed better than straight conical of the same length, and longer chokes - up to 3" - did not show significant advantage with steel or small lead shot sizes, but did with larger lead shotsizes ( 6's and larger ).

From what I have found myself (using a Baker micrometer bore gauge to verify choke dimensions - not everything is "as marked" - and shooting probably a couple of hundred pattern sheets) that choke for choke, I couldn't determine any meaningful patterning advantage or difference between Beretta's flush-mounted Mobil chokes and their extended Victory chokes, nor their flush-mounted Optima and Optima extended chokes with 2-3/4 dram equiv. size # 7-1/2 lead factory target loads.

I've patterned a few aftermarket extended chokes, including ported and non-ported designs, from Briley, Rino, Seminole, Teague and a few others. I found that the OEM stuff worked just fine ... so resisted most of the aftermarket choke advertising & hype.

I believe some of the extended aftermarket stuff may be advantageous for large lead shot use ... i.e., to coyote and turkey hunters, card shooters, etc., but I just haven't any experiance there, and shoot mostly Kent Impact at waterfowl, so don't have much offer vis-a-vis steel shot.

Have to confess though that for target guns, I do like the convenience of extened colour-coded chokes, and don't mind having to to check or re-tighten them occassionally between stations. The old 870 works just fine with standard flush mount Rem-chokes and for upland field guns, particularly SxS's, appropriate fixed chokes and double triggers work for me.

Just my 2 cents worth....
 
American writer/researcher Tom Roster has patterned literally thousands of rounds in empirical testing of chokes & chokes tubes with both lead and steel shot ... as well as having done considerable parallel research on chambers, bores and forcing cones.

Some of the highlights I remember from reading his stuff was that he found no significant advantage, all other factors being equal, to ( 12 gauge ) bores being overbored to more than .740", nor forcing cones longer than 2-1/2". As to chokes, parallel/conical designs performed better than straight conical of the same length, and longer chokes - up to 3" - did not show significant advantage with steel or small lead shot sizes, but did with larger lead shotsizes ( 6's and larger ).

From what I have found myself (using a Baker micrometer bore gauge to verify choke dimensions - not everything is "as marked" - and shooting probably a couple of hundred pattern sheets) that choke for choke, I couldn't determine any meaningful patterning advantage or difference between Beretta's flush-mounted Mobil chokes and their extended Victory chokes, nor their flush-mounted Optima and Optima extended chokes with 2-3/4 dram equiv. size # 7-1/2 lead factory target loads.

I've patterned a few aftermarket extended chokes, including ported and non-ported designs, from Briley, Rino, Seminole, Teague and a few others. I found that the OEM stuff worked just fine ... so resisted most of the aftermarket choke advertising & hype.

I believe some of the extended aftermarket stuff may be advantageous for large lead shot use ... i.e., to coyote and turkey hunters, card shooters, etc., but I just haven't any experiance there, and shoot mostly Kent Impact at waterfowl, so don't have much offer vis-a-vis steel shot.

Have to confess though that for target guns, I do like the convenience of extened colour-coded chokes, and don't mind having to to check or re-tighten them occassionally between stations. The old 870 works just fine with standard flush mount Rem-chokes and for upland field guns, particularly SxS's, appropriate fixed chokes and double triggers work for me.

Just my 2 cents worth....

Nice write up. I have never bought any after market chokes to mess with but have been tempted many times as all the big name USA shooters all seem to use another brand of choke at sporting events, must the money they get or they haven't taken the time to test OEM products. FS
 
Nice write up. I have never bought any after market chokes to mess with but have been tempted many times as all the big name USA shooters all seem to use another brand of choke at sporting events, must the money they get or they haven't taken the time to test OEM products. FS

I am sure it is the money and I am sure they have tested many tubes including their OEM and the aftermarket stuff. If you can find an aftermarket that is as good as the OEM, why not take the money and the tubes and smile for the camera.:D

BTW I still think you should look into a beretta LM for your new toy.
 
The REALLY nice thing about extended choke tubes is that if you are shooting steel and the choke eventually bulges the tube, it also won't bulge the barrel (& it is only a question of when, not if, especially if you are using BBB's or T's after the Giant Canadas).

I have seen a few barrels that have been damage by steel. An older style mobile tube in a beretta split the tube and also the barrel where the threads were. The most commion was a ring bulge behind where the tubes were.

Why do you think that with BBBs or Ts it is a matter of time before the tube gets bulged?

Why do you think that you can bulge the tube and not cause damge to the barrel?
 
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