Externally Threading a stock M14/M305 Flash Hider for Mock Suppressor

[Lt Krieger]

Hey Guys,

I tried searching this but I have come up with nothing so please be gentle... Hopefully at a minimum someone has thought of this, tried it and didn't succeed. Even better would be someone crafty enough that made it work.

I've been looking at flash suppressors with external threads that allow for easy mounting of a sound, or in Canada...a mock suppressor on an M14. Is there any scientific reason that the outside of the existing flash suppressor couldn't be threaded to allow a mock suppressor to be spun on or grooved to accept one like the AAC Blackout? Perhaps there isn't enough meat on it? Don't know, but after looking at certain functional suppressors, it seems to me that the internals of them are not that fundamentally different. I am a carpenter...not a gunsmith and know my limits when it comes to metalwork...like sharpening a chisel. Hopefully someone can shed some light on the concept. Grizzly Gun Works has something along the line of what I'm talking about. Just thinking it would be easier and cheaper than buying a new brake with suppressor attachment capability.

https://shop.grizzlygunworks.com/Muzzle-Brake-Fake-Silencer-Redirector-3-in-1-Combination-3IN1COMBINATIONPACKAGE.htm

Cheers

 

[Claven2]

Externally threading a stock M305 suppressor would be difficult. For starters, I don't know of the external diameter of the FS is the same OD as the OD of any standard thread sizes, though it could be machined to a smaller diameter if needs be. The real issue is that to do this, you would have to take a great many very light threading cuts. This is because you are trying to cut a fine point thread groove on an interrupted cylinder that will try to catch the tip of the tool and warp your flash hider.

To be honest, if I was hell-bent on doing this, I would just machine a new muzzle device that uses the castle nut threads, or just cut the barrel back right behind the FS splines and thread the barrel for a standard size muzzle device.

 

[Lt Krieger]

Thanks for the reply! Probably the direction I will go. Was just curious if anyone was successful with something like this.

Cheers

 

[Apple tree]

Someone told me in another post the 305 flash supressors are cast. So they are brittle. Just the threading will make it weaker, and adding a tube over this will hide the weakness + add stuff for the gasses to pull harder on the newly weakened assembly.

I would fear that the mock suppressor would just launch forward after just a few rounds.

I think it would be much easier to thread the inside of a steel tube to whatever thread size they are using for the flash hider and thread the outside of that tube to whatever you need.

 

[Fargone4sure]

Pretty sure they are cast steel, not cast iron, so not super brittle. Tough enough that most of the welded on ones can take a few good wacks with the big hammer and chisel. But they are not a precision part, quite likely out of round. So by the time they are trued up and threaded, it would be getting pretty thin. This on a part not designed to be load bearing that far forward. So although an interesting idea, as claven2 stated, there are are other more practical solutions.

 

[Apple tree]

Pretty sure they are cast steel, not cast iron, so not super brittle. Tough enough that most of the welded on ones can take a few good wacks with the big hammer and chisel. But they are not a precision part, quite likely out of round. So by the time they are trued up and threaded, it would be getting pretty thin. This on a part not designed to be load bearing that far forward. So although an interesting idea, as claven2 stated, there are are other more practical solutions.

Sure they are cast steel, and the bolts are forged steel lol.

Joking aside, though they may historically at some point have been steel and may still be, if they can ship rifles with MIM bolts without notice, who knows what material the flash hider or anything else on these rifles is from one bach to another now...

 

[Apple tree]

To be honest, if I was hell-bent on doing this, I would just machine a new muzzle device that uses the castle nut threads, or just cut the barrel back right behind the FS splines and thread the barrel for a standard size muzzle device.

This is what makes the most sense