Feels Right.....

dak47

CGN frequent flyer
Super GunNutz
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I shoot my CZ 97B if I'm plugging 45acp at the range, but deep down I knew I bought this bucket of bolts although I never let it see the light of day for years..... During the course of doing some other work, I found it buried in the recesses of the safe, and upon a second inspection it is built quite tight and the trigger, while vague isn't horrid. Feels nice in my mitt and as much as I hate to admit it, I may have watched a bit of Magnum P.I. back in the day LOL.

Where do you 1911 types start with a train wreck like this? I'll take it to the range on Monday but I know I need to change the ambi safety right off the hop and then? Dlask the 1911 go to in B.C.?

Sorry for all the 1911 newb questions but I'm working from home for a few months and can finally give this thing a bit of love and exercise

Dirk

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Those are great pistols for the money, if are you good at gunsmithing/ if so clean up trigger and sear, smooth the slide frame rails, put good springs in , the shoot the hell out of it.
Than you can spend some big money later, getting all new guts in it, which if you are a new shooter, will not make much difference, other than a good trigger job.
If you are sitting at home, you could try polishing the flats on the slide, not with a buffing wheel, but flat plate and wet /dry paper from 400 to 1500 grit, this is not a few hr job.
I sold quite a few NP27,s, commander length, and they all shot good
 
I’ve had 7 Norkie 1911s pass through my hands in 10 years. The best fitted and finished ones were those manufactured before 2010-11.

I kept an older Sport that has a chrome frame/blue slide just like the OPs, a bomar style adjustable rear sight, FO front sight, videcki trigger, throated and polished ramp, been dehorned, reblued, tightened and tuned by Roger Kotanko. I love it and it is my keeper Norkie. Feeds any bullet style from truncated, SWC to round ball. Zero malfunctions since I got it.
 
With my own hand size the extended thumb safeties push my thumb either too high or out too far. So on my Remington R1 Enhanced I ditched the two side safety for a single and then ground the rest down to something more "military issue" that the soft part of my thumb can lay over smoothly without causing my hold to be pushed away.

If you're comfy with stripping the gun down you can do a LOT of your own tuning by working at just two things. First is to tweak the trigger bow so it fits the channel in the frame with no shake rattle and roll. I've done this to my own 1911's by various means. But one option is to buy an STI trigger. It comes with bendable fingers that you tweak to remove any rattle play but keep it loose enough so it doesn't bind. And needless to say reaching in and lightly polishing the track for the bow with some fine sandpaper is not a bad idea. It doesn't need to be totally smooth. Just remove the peaks off the roughness so there's a series of flat and even lines for the bow to rid on instead of tripping over the peaks.

If you don't want to buy an STI trigger then modify the original. I've cut my own similar fingers into stock bows by cutting a 1mm shallow notch into the edge of the bow and then pushing the spot outwards with a strike or two from a small cold chisel. The resulting hump is then LIGHTLY stoned for a drag and slop free fit. This being done near to the rear. At the front I've drilled and inserted small brass pins (see your locksmith) above and below and on the trigger itself and then filed and sanded them down to get the same shake or drag free fit at the trigger.

This OCD trigger focus isn't only for removing the rattle. It produces a more consistent feel on the release and reset and is a big part of making any 1911 more of a joy to shoot. And best of all it's something you can do yourself if you're at all handy.

Leave the damn sear and hammer hooks alone. You can do a LOT of damage really easily if you don't know what you're doing. And they are seldom as bad as you think and will wear smooth from some shooting or just thumb cocking and dry firing while watching TV.

And if you thumb #### and then press against the hammer firmly but not with a death push it aids in burnishing in the sear and hammer nicely with less dry fires. In terms of force use something like 3 or 4 times the pressure it takes to pull the trigger without any added pressure. Light but firm and more often is better than push like hell and strain to pull the trigger. Doing the second bad way can lead to chipped edges on the sear or hammer. This is often called "The Cheap Man's Trigger Job".

Next up on the list of easily done at home tweaking is to tune up the three finger spring. There's no one article I've found on this which says it all. And the Brownell's article I used to be able to find easily is now hidden in a tangled mess of listings. But look around at different sources and try them. A LOT of the setup for a nice 1911 is in how that three finger spring is set up.

The great thing about the three finger spring tweaking is that if you go to far you just ease it back again. It's a fussy thing because it means a LOT of tearing down and re-assembly to test. But it gives great results that you can feel right away.
 
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