filling bubba holes?

Mr. Buttons

Mr. Buttons

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Just looking for ideas - I am tired of looking at a couple of drilled and tapped receivers (my eyes are always drawn to the holes when I ogle them).

My plan - I want to fill the holes and re-blue the area to make the receivers more (or less) look like it would have before bubba got at it.

This is for my own purposes and not for resale use

Ideas - I know JB weld won't take blue. :(

I was therefore thinking of using scope mount screws and then cutting off the heads with a dremel, smoothing the area and then cold bluing the small areas when I'm done. You'd still be able to see the screw outlines but this might be an acceptable solution. I figure you can't bubba something that's already been bubba'd right?

any other ideas to make these holes go away?

thanks :dancingbanana:
 
I bought a Winchester 52 Pre A that had 7 holes in the receiver.
I took a screw of the proper thread for each hole and cut a screwdriver slot in the end. Then screwed the slotted end into the receiver, marked the correct height, removed the screw and cut if off at the mark.
Dressed the cut end and then screwed it right way around into the receiver. Then used a marker to indicate where the screw needed work to match the contour of the reciever. After the contour matched, I polished and cold blued. Then screwed it in.
Now I've got all these slotted filler screws, but they at least blend in and it's better than all the holes.
 
The PROPER way is to fill with countersunk screws and then TIG or MIG over the heads. Dress and then reblue the receiver.

Anything less is mickey-mouse and it WILL show :(
 
Filling holes.

Depends on how much work you want to do refinish afterwards.

I have had good luck with using a variation on the mig welded countersunk screw method.

I make a shallow countersink of the mouth of the hole, just a little wider than the diameter of the threads. I prepare a slotted head countersunk screw by running a die right up to the head. I try it in the hole and mark and cut it to length slightly short. Then the screw is cranked in good and tight with red loctite.
Buzz the head down with a dremel leaving it slightly proud. This will usualy remove almost all of the head, slot and all. Then put the dremel away and carefully dress with a fine handfile so as not to bugger up the surrounding surface, finishing with emery paper.

If finished with 'suncorite' style paint finish it will be invisible. If using cold blue, you may notice a feint circle of a different blue, maybe.

Welding is the way to go to make it 100% invisible, but this method works for me.
 
Just a variation on englishman.ca's method - countersink the hole slightly, run the screw in firmly, cut it off slightly proud, then carefully rivet the screw until it fills the slight countersink. Then carefully dress the screw until it is flush and touch up the finish. The repair will be best if the steel of the screw is similar to the steel in the part. If the alloys are different, the touch up finish will react differently, and the plug will really stand out.
If you want the hole to really disappear, Claven2's method is the way to go.
Obviously these methods require some refinishing. While refinishing a collectible firearm is generally best avoided, holes really detract.
Slash5 - did you get that early 52 from Jason?
 
englishman_ca said:
Depends on how much work you want to do refinish afterwards.

I have had good luck with using a variation on the mig welded countersunk screw method.

I make a shallow countersink of the mouth of the hole, just a little wider than the diameter of the threads. I prepare a slotted head countersunk screw by running a die right up to the head. I try it in the hole and mark and cut it to length slightly short. Then the screw is cranked in good and tight with red loctite.
Buzz the head down with a dremel leaving it slightly proud. This will usualy remove almost all of the head, slot and all. Then put the dremel away and carefully dress with a fine handfile so as not to bugger up the surrounding surface, finishing with emery paper.

If finished with 'suncorite' style paint finish it will be invisible. If using cold blue, you may notice a feint circle of a different blue, maybe.

Welding is the way to go to make it 100% invisible, but this method works for me.
Click to expand...

thanks englishman_ca: very constructive. I figured there was another method than the welding option (which of course could still be an option down the road should the above method prove unsatisfactory) - but then I guess I'd have to buy a welder...

Gives me something to mull over :) Thanks again.
 
tiriaq said:
Slash5 - did you get that early 52 from Jason?
Click to expand...

Yes, I was in Ottawa visiting family.
Too bad about all the holes but I knew it's the only way I could afford a Winchester 52. Amazing gun to shoot, very accurate, military looks.
I believe it is 1920 production or so.
 
Claven2 said:
The PROPER way is to fill with countersunk screws and then TIG or MIG over the heads. Dress and then reblue the receiver.

Anything less is mickey-mouse and it WILL show :(
Click to expand...

Is there anyone on this forum in Southern Ontario who can do this for a rifle I own? I have a Weaver base with tapped holes that I'd like to disappear.
 
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