Finally have everything to reload 44 Webley, now what?

Here are some pics of the test last night, my bench is in ruin so I used the computer desk for pictures.

Here is the case fill with the 0.7cc dipper


Depth measurement from the case mouth to the powder


That same measurement on the base of the bullet


1/8in on the bullet from where the bullet would start to contact the powder


I think this all looks ok, like I said, I think I can more to 13gr and be ok but 15gr fills the case to overflowing and I want to be able to start the bullet in the case mouth first.
 
If you want to give smokeless a try, I did some work using Vihtavoury Tin Star in a 44 webley. You can search the Antique & Black Powder section for the results.
 
The upper groove is, of course, the cannelure groove. For other regular loading this is the groove you use to fold the roll crimped edge of the case mouth into. The old original ammo would have had a LONG bullet so it's OK to load your rounds longer if you wish. But to aid in holding the bullets in proper alignment I'd suggest you want to seat them so the casing mouth is about half way or so up the bore riding surface above the lube. Seating that deep will aid in preventing the bullet becoming cocked to the side in the case.

You only need to crimp by enough to remove the flare if you are seating so the case mouth is on one of the riding bands. Or at most a very light crimp into the lead. This will rely on the mouth tension to retain the bullet. But with such a light load that should not be an issue if the bullet needs a decent push to seat it.

To get a better idea of the compressed powder height instead of measuring to the loose powder like you did a close fitting wooden dowel or other round object can be used to press the powder with moderate pressure. The examples of how much to leave the powder high for compression we've given you in the other replies is based on a deeper charge. On the other hand you're measuring out really small amounts in a big case which sits in quite a thin "pancake" like form. After pressing the powder THEN take your measurement and figure out what you want to do in terms of seating the bullet or adding a little powder to alter the seating height. Packing it down that way will be quite close to what you'll get from the compressed load in the press.

Note too that if you try to compress the charge too firmly with the aid of your press handle that it can bulge the casing. There's no real safety related need to compress it THAT much.
 
By the way, it's easy to make your own dippers. Either fill one of the Lee plastic ones with a little blob of epoxy after cleaning it really well or make up something from empty handgun cases. The handgun casing dippers I've made use copper house wire with the insulation stripped off or mostly stripped off and soldered to the casing. I then file down the lip until it holds the amount I want. To allow for this I solder the wire for the handle on fairly low.

With the variations provided by the different cases available the options are endless. If you want to do this consider that you'll get better measurement consistency with tall and skinny vs short and fat. The issue being how consistent the crown is following the dip. A .38Spl casing trimmed to length for some measure around 9 to 11gns will be more consistent than a .45acp trimmed to hold the same amount.
 
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