I have read of a method to fire form an Ackley improved case using a small charge of pistol powder, then filling the case to the neck shoulder junction with cornmeal, and then plugging the case with wax or toilet paper. No bullet. Has anyone tried this? How did it work. I am loading for a 6mm-06 AI and the savings on barrel life and cost appeals to me.
Fire forming an Ackely improved case using cornmeal?
- Thread starter jbmauser
- Start date
I've never fireformed an AI case, so take this for what it's worth, but I've always been under the impression that to fireform the case, all you needed to do was shot off a factory round in the improved chamber, or in your case, a 6mm-06 reload and voila: you have an improved case.
I have done it. Shot them in the basement, aiming at a concrete wall. Don't recall any glitches. I used enough powder to reform the case but the shoulder was not sharp. Good enough for a god full-power load.
That was 25 years ago. For my AI now rfles now, I make a target load using a faster powder (4350 instead of RL22) and shoot the fire-forming ammo in matches. Up to 500 yards, it is more accurate than the final version.
That was 25 years ago. For my AI now rfles now, I make a target load using a faster powder (4350 instead of RL22) and shoot the fire-forming ammo in matches. Up to 500 yards, it is more accurate than the final version.
Done several hundred cases this way for my 26-06AI.
I used 13gr of LilGun, shoved a 22cal patch on top, filled with cornmeal, plugged with another patch. NOW HERES the important part. Take some case lube (I used Imperial case wax) and lube the body of the case, not the neck. The reason for this is the firing pin will push the brass ahead slightly and if the case walls stick to the chamber you will have a incorrectly head spaced cartrige, easily discernable by the protruding primer.
Deprime and neck size and your good to go. trim if necessary but most cases will be ok in my experience.
I used 13gr of LilGun, shoved a 22cal patch on top, filled with cornmeal, plugged with another patch. NOW HERES the important part. Take some case lube (I used Imperial case wax) and lube the body of the case, not the neck. The reason for this is the firing pin will push the brass ahead slightly and if the case walls stick to the chamber you will have a incorrectly head spaced cartrige, easily discernable by the protruding primer.
Deprime and neck size and your good to go. trim if necessary but most cases will be ok in my experience.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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- Summerland, BC
assume you are starting with 25-06 brass. neck down but form a false shoulder at the location where it takes firm bolt pressure to close. you'll feel the case at 1/2 to 2/3s down on the bolt handle and need to squeeze it shut.
This is really important to keep the case against the bolt face to stop the issues/set back as described above. I do not lube my cases.
I use titegroup and 10 to 13gr should do it. Cornmeal to the base of the neck. I do not put a wad between the powder and cornmeal. I use paper towel stuffed into the neck to hold it in place.
dont jam the plug in hard as you don't want to compress the cornmeal.
I fire them at the range keeping an eye on dented cases caused by grits getting into the chamber. Clean things out with a dry patch. Swab the bore now and then with a dry patch. You are just getting the solids out of the rifle.
The correct load is when the shoulder is moved and still has a bit of curvature. You can get silly high pressures real fast which can damage the chamber if you try to get a sharp shoulder.
Keep things clean.
works great. Just don't get anything wet or shoot on a rainy day.
Wet/damp cornmeal is seriously dangerous.
Jerry
This is really important to keep the case against the bolt face to stop the issues/set back as described above. I do not lube my cases.
I use titegroup and 10 to 13gr should do it. Cornmeal to the base of the neck. I do not put a wad between the powder and cornmeal. I use paper towel stuffed into the neck to hold it in place.
dont jam the plug in hard as you don't want to compress the cornmeal.
I fire them at the range keeping an eye on dented cases caused by grits getting into the chamber. Clean things out with a dry patch. Swab the bore now and then with a dry patch. You are just getting the solids out of the rifle.
The correct load is when the shoulder is moved and still has a bit of curvature. You can get silly high pressures real fast which can damage the chamber if you try to get a sharp shoulder.
Keep things clean.
works great. Just don't get anything wet or shoot on a rainy day.
Wet/damp cornmeal is seriously dangerous.
Jerry
It's pretty simple
You want- Low powder charge, cornmeal, tissue on top for a "bullet"
Some guys use vaseline to hold the tissue "bullet in place
You want to try a few, increasing powder charges until you get agood, sharp shoulder. Then note powder charge and blast away...
You want- Low powder charge, cornmeal, tissue on top for a "bullet"
Some guys use vaseline to hold the tissue "bullet in place
You want to try a few, increasing powder charges until you get agood, sharp shoulder. Then note powder charge and blast away...
Just don't use cornmeal inside the house. Trust me. - dan
So I primed my case and used 10gr of 231. I then filled with cornmeal to the base of the neck and used a small wad of toilet paper to plug the neck. I went down to the range and fired it off. KABLAM!! Blew my gun apart! Just kidding. the report was very mild as was recoil. The case came out perfectly formed with a slight radius to the shoulder. Thanks to all who gave info and helped me out. I was very pleased with the results.
I put virgin or once fired 30-06 brass in my 35 Whelen AI and blow out the neck, shoulder and taper all in one pop with the Cow method using some toilet tissue in the neck. Got a bunch of surplus herco I use. A .358" bullet can be slipped in the neck after I pull the trigger. I neck size and then full house loads then sharpen up the case profile. No biggy once u figure out your charge.
