fireforming .410 brass

Arlo_Dog

Arlo_Dog

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I am going to do some shopping this weekend for supplies to make some .410
brass.

I read a bit on the procedure at endtimesreport.com, but I'm not yet
comfortable enough to jump in with both feet. I am in no real hurry to
make this brass, but would like to get my shopping list together. As well
I would like to glean any useful info from the shotgun reloaders, wildcatters
and those in the know here in the forums.

What I have:
  • 60 rds 303 brass
  • cream of wheat
  • torch
  • water
  • m6 scout .410/.22
what I think I need so far:

  • pistol primers to fit 303 brass
  • Herco powder
  • shot (what size I don't know yet)
  • means of weighing shot
  • card stock
  • felt for wads
  • cutter for wads

What I think I know:

  • From what I can tell, you anneal the case necks with a torch and
    quench in cold water. The author of the article I read uses
    molten lead and water but I don't really want to start the project
    of getting a lead melting setup built.
  • Prime cases with pistol primers to keep pressures down. Charge
    with 8 gr Herco powder and fill up with cream of wheat.
  • Hold gun upwards and fire breakfast at the sun.
  • Load fireformed shells with 8 gr Herco, felt wad, cardstock, 1/2 to 5/8
    oz shot, then cardstock with something to seal it. I've read about something
    called egg-keep or Elmer's glue, but I'm not sure.

What I don't know:

  • Are the cardstock and felt of a special type, or can I get it all
    at craft stores?
  • Is the fireforming going to be hard on my m6 scout? Should I find
    something with a more stout chamber/barrel?
  • How do I measure shot on the cheap?
  • Do I have the anatomy of the shotshell correct?
  • Is this all bullpoop?
  • Why can't I sharpen the edge of a fireformed shell to make a wad
    and cardstock punch?
  • Everything else.
Any tips from folks who have done something like this or think I am going
about something the wrong way would be greatly appreciated.
 
Before you go too far, check to see if you can close your Scout with a .303 case in the chamber. The .303 case has a thicker rim than the .410 case and sometimes it will fit a chamber and sometimes will not. If you can get some .444 Marlin brass cases they may fit better as the .444 case has a thinner rim. The .444 case probably doesn't need to be fire formed as it is a straight case. Good luck.
 
I make shot shells for my .444 14 gr WW296 topped with a ww plastic shot cup (.410) 1/2 oz. shot (7 1/2) top with a .44 cal gas check inverted and crimped in place.
 
Thanks for the replies. I am curious about what you charged those cases with, RR. I may have to look around for some 444 brass. Anyone care to comment on the rest of the components?

I am wondering about the gas check in a thin shotgun barrel, would I have to worry about pressure issues?
 
I tried to form some .303; didn't use enough powder to cause the heavier rear portion of the case to expand, and gave up. Looking at RR's photos, probably just as well. The .444 is basically a straight case to begin with, so that would be the way to go. I would just use a card topwad, although I have heard of gaschecks being used. Egg-keep is probably waterglass, sodium silicate(?). Don't know where you would get it. White glue would work, a slight crimp wouldn't hurt either. I've cut felt wads from old felt boot liners; lots of those living in the north. All sorts of card material around in different thicknesses.
 
The heavier rear portion does not expand . The brass expands just ahead of the base.On the fire forming trip the brass comes out egg shape.Loaded as a 2 1/2" winchester with AA wad and 1/2 oz #4 .Plastic overwad punched out of milk jug.LR win primers the brass burst as shown.444 brass is larger diameter to begin with so no problems except for the rim.410 rim is radiused on the inside of the rim so it fits in the chamber farther.Depending on your headspace you may need to either radius the inside corners or thin the inside of the rim.By inside I mean the portion of the rim you would see if the case was standing upright and you were looking down.
Rich
 
I use the shot shells to pop grouse . They work out to about 25 yds. Even shot some clay birds with them. I got some funny looks when I uncased my Marlin and went to the trap stations. LOL
 
I got some funny looks when I uncased my Marlin and went to the trap stations.
Click to expand...
Would that be one of those Marlin model 410s? If so, in some clubs you mighta got sacked like a slow quarterback before you could do any explaining.

If it's the Marlin 410, how do you like it? Brass shotshell cases in a lever seems pretty cool.
 
.444 marlin I had to load the rounds singley they won't feed through the action. Our trap club is rather informal, just a bunch of guys who all know each other get out to shoot on tuesday afternoon and Sunday mornings.
 
I have a fair number of 444 emptys. I have owned one for over 20 years. Have used the gas check shot cartridge method. works great. If you want some brass let me know.
Carry on!
 
I just picked up a marlin 410 and was wondering how to get 444 brass to feed well. Has anyone tried to roll crimp the brass slightly? If you have made it feed how did you do it......someone here has made it work.......
 
I hate to say it but there is a seller on Ebay that has been moving alot of .410,28 and 20 gauge NIB brass shells. Prices have been pretty reasonable if you buy a few boxes to keep the shipping per shell cost down.
Do a search on ebay, if you don't find it right away try the completed listings. They keep listing the stuff every once in a while over the last few months.
 
For the brass cases...just use a card wad on top and seal with hot glue around edge of wad....you don't need to crimp case as that just works the brass and it will cause it to split eventually.
 
Now that's odd, since I have used "NEW" .303 brass to make .410 cases for my Ishapore. The original loads were un-necked .303 cases.
.444 Marlin brass won't even start to chamber.
 
I'm in the dark here .. what is the advantage of what you are doing over simply buying .410 shot shells with what ever size shot you want? What does the brass give you over the standard plastic shell?
 
John Sukey said:
Now that's odd, since I have used "NEW" .303 brass to make .410 cases for my Ishapore. The original loads were un-necked .303 cases.
.444 Marlin brass won't even start to chamber.
Click to expand...

John
Ishy 410s are 303 muskets,by that I mean they were smoothbore round ball loads based on a blown out 303 case.Mine was a Ishy barrel that I had reamed to 3" 410.The smith that did the work headspaced it off a 303 headspace guage:mad: so I have to use 444 brass .

Rich
 
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