firing pin and spring ?

TrxR

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Do any of you oil your fring pin and spring after cleaning or leave them dry? I'm concerned about oil collecting dirt or gumming up.
 
Depends on what gun you're talking about. At most, I put a drop or two on a small rag and wipe innerds -but NOT the Firing Pin - enuf to prevent rust but not collect much dirt. And I clean frequently also. However, my SKS doesn't get any oil on the FP and channel but ptfe grease on carrier rails, sear rails, etc - anything that gets friction.
 
Do any of you oil your fring pin and spring after cleaning or leave them dry? I'm concerned about oil collecting dirt or gumming up.

If you clean regularly, how is the internals going to get gummed up?

What is going to give you the most consistent firing pin strike?

If shooting in super cold, whatever will keep it functioning.

Jerry
 
If you clean regularly, how is the internals going to get gummed up?

What is going to give you the most consistent firing pin strike?

If shooting in super cold, whatever will keep it functioning.

Jerry

That's very cryptic.

What would you suggest? I've got some Hornady one shot I was thinking about giving a light spray or could use some hoppes gun oil or eezox.
 
I used to disassemble the bolt and thoroughly clean the firing pin and spring
Nowadays I just wipe the bolt with an oily rag and lightly oil the bore
I have not experienced any issues
(talking about bolt action and semi-auto rimfire rifles and pistols (but not revolvers))
 
DRY doesn't FREEZE ! UNLESS it was warm and wet to start . . . :rolleyes: reminds me of . . .

Reminds me of what does a pizza delivery driver and a gynecologist have in common ?
Back to the op, if you can remove the bolt from the gun (bolt action) boil up some water in the kettle .
Spray some simple green on the parts and give a good scrub.
Pour boiling water over parts and let dry on some absorbent towel.
The heat will assist in drying, the simple green will remove gummed bits and powder residue with the use of a nylon brush .
Give a wipe with your favorite light oil and reassemble.
Of course your experience may vary than mine, this method has worked for my shotguns, bolt guns and many semi autos ..not all of them have been .22's
Tight Groups,
Rob
 
guys at the range laugh when I tell them I use Mobil-1 on my guns, but I don't get jams. W/ built in detergents . . .
 
I have seen an amazing amount of firearms fail to fire in real cold weather. Most oils become like honey when cold. Synthetic is better but in high end guns the tolerances tend to be much tighter. The best lube for your firing mechanism is Lighter fluid. It clears crap out and evaporates to remove moisture and leaves the thinnest layer of lubrication. Your gun will reliably fire even down to minus 60. Hunt wolves in February, Northern Ontario and youll understand.
 
I have seen an amazing amount of firearms fail to fire in real cold weather. Most oils become like honey when cold. Synthetic is better but in high end guns the tolerances tend to be much tighter. The best lube for your firing mechanism is Lighter fluid. It clears crap out and evaporates to remove moisture and leaves the thinnest layer of lubrication. Your gun will reliably fire even down to minus 60. Hunt wolves in February, Northern Ontario and youll understand.

:agree: Lighter fluid is the only product I use to clean/lube my triggers.
 
I am surprised. I knew lighter fluid degreases but does it really lube and prevent rust ?
Hilbert
 
I use Remington Dry Lube on the bolts of my 22's. Helps clean out any built up carbon and it's dry so doesn't seem to attract as much carbon fouling.
 
I am surprised. I knew lighter fluid degreases but does it really lube and prevent rust ?
Hilbert

Lighter fluid acts as a solvent and degreaser, not as a lubricant. Triggers with problems relating to "gumming up" are very often those that have been oiled or lubricated by users. This oil or lubricant is what "gums up" the trigger by allowing dirt and debris to stick to it. A solvent or degreaser gets rid of user-induced of unwanted accumulations. Most modern triggers don't require user lubrication and manufacturers avoid recommending trigger lubrication by the user. Triggers are typically lubricated with long lasting lube where necessary at the factory.
 
I am surprised. I knew lighter fluid degreases but does it really lube and prevent rust ?
Hilbert

Lighter fluid acts as a solvent and degreaser, not as a lubricant. It's good for cleaning away rust spots.

Triggers with problems relating to "gumming up" are very often those that have been oiled or lubricated by users. This oil or lubricant is what "gums up" the trigger by allowing dirt and debris to stick to it. A solvent or degreaser gets rid of user-induced of unwanted accumulations. Most modern triggers don't require user lubrication and manufacturers avoid recommending trigger lubrication by the user. Triggers are typically lubricated with long lasting lube where necessary at the factory.
 
Lighter fluid acts as a solvent and degreaser, not as a lubricant. It's good for cleaning away rust spots.

Triggers with problems relating to "gumming up" are very often those that have been oiled or lubricated by users. This oil or lubricant is what "gums up" the trigger by allowing dirt and debris to stick to it. A solvent or degreaser gets rid of user-induced of unwanted accumulations. Most modern triggers don't require user lubrication and manufacturers avoid recommending trigger lubrication by the user. Triggers are typically lubricated with long lasting lube where necessary at the factory.
Just for those that didn’t get it on the first pass. There are many types of lighter fluid as a matter of fact, and some have petroleum as a base or in them. So depending on which is used will determine if a thin film of lubrication is deposited. I know some of our JTF2 and CSOR snipers use it.
 
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