Firing Pin Spring for Tikka T3X:

Biologist

Biologist

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My Tikka T3X .260 Rem Stainless Varmint is approaching 3000 rounds fired. In addition to thinking about a new barrel, topic of this post is about firing pin springs.

I understand the benchrest and F-class folks change out their firing pins regularly after high round counts, or annually. They say consistent ignition is essential for small group size and accuracy, and when FP springs wear out, groups open up due to inconsistent ignition. Makes sense.

I see Stoeger Canada offers a Tikka T3/3X "complete firing pin assembly" with firing pin spring, firing pin, and firing pin guide for $99.99, plus shipping, plus tax on shipping (grrrr). But I don't want or need an entire assembly, I only want a new spring. Stoeger: Its a bloody spring for goodness sake, why are you making me buy bolt components?! Geez! :mad:

Anyone know of where to get a Tikka T3X firing pin spring, or a non Tikka spring that can substitute?
 
I think I found what I was looking for. Lumley Arms US sells a Tikka T3/T3X striker spring kit, and they include a spring with 10% more power. Sells for $25 USD. But with the exchange that will be over $30 CAD, plus shipping and taxes costing more.

https://lumleyarms.us/tikka-t3-t3x-striker-spring

Lumley's instructions with photos and drawings are very good. However the designers at Tikka appear to have gone out of their way to design a difficult and awkward firing pin (striker) assembly to replace that spring, with potential for a non pro like me to break something, or lose a part flying across the garage never to be found again. I can see now why Stoeger sells the entire firing pin assembly with spring (for 100 bucks), because the average person like me without many tools or skills is not going to be able to replace the spring easily.

Lumley suggests using an "engineers offset vise" drilled on each jaw to contain the assembly and provide the spring compression safely. I do not have such a vise, nor the means to drill holes in it accurately. Every hole I drill in metal with my hand drill ends up crooked! (Guess I need to buy a drill press).

I sort of have an idea for a jig that I can make out of aluminum plate scrap and and wood that can fit in my steel mechanics bench vise. But that will take some experimentation.
 
I’m thinking you could fire many thousands more rounds without ever having to worry about the firing pin spring. I own a T3x though not with that round count…. I have rem 700’s with more rounds than that and have never even given a thought to replacing the spring and have never had ignition issues.
 
Thanks Big Jon. Yes, I am not worried about ignition for the general functioning of this rifle. I think Tikka guarantees 1 MOA, or under 1 MOA, and my .260 Rem Varmint in its factory stock (not bedded or pillared), is consistently averaging 0.6 MOA with my best reloads. Overall I cannot complain.

However that average has an extreme spread of about 1.2 to 0.4 MOA at 100m to 200m (no wind) with the same reloads, so I struggle with the consistency. I have installed a Yo Dave trigger spring and have it set below 1 lb, so that helps. I use it for long range on steel plates, and that variance is enough to miss a plate at LR. From what I understand, that broad spread can be due to ignition inconsistencies. It could be that the barrel is done, it could be me, it could be the stock. The stock does touch the barrel a few inches forward of the receiver, and I have been meaning to hog out that material.

I was curious about if I could improve 0.6 MOA down to maybe 0.4 or 0.3 MOA, and reduce the spread, just for fun. The .260 Rem is nota benchrest or F-class cartridge, but I like to think I should be able to get 0.5 MOA more consistently. The approx 3000 rounds through it is more than what what I hear the F-Class guys use before changing striker springs (heck they have already replaced the barrel twice by then!).

So a new striker spring would be an experiment. My reloading skills have improved since I bought the rifle new, so my early bench shooting data when the spring was new is not comparable to how I reload now, so I have no idea what is going on.

What I just found out though is that the spring change is more involved than I thought. Everything will depend if I can build an easy to use jig.

I have an MDT XRS chassis on order, so when it arrives I will see if the aluminum V block and good barrel clearance in the XRS makes any difference in group size and consistency, before I consider changing out the striker spring.

Maybe its time for a new custom barrel.
 
FLHTCUI said:
Wolf Springs make one for your Tika ?
Relaible here in Vancouver carry Wolf Springs...
Rob
Click to expand...

Thanks for that tip Rob. I checked out Wolff Springs website, but they don't list Tikkas in their pull down list of makes they carry springs for.
Another issue I found out from the Lumley website instructions is that there is a retaining wire clip (sort of a wire snap ring thing that fits in a groove in the firing pin) that has to be destructively bent open to remove the original spring, and a new ring has to be installed. That new retaining ring has to be supplied, else it is impossible to retain the spring. It is not a standard C clip.

Looks like Tikka designed their firing pin assembly to be difficult to mess with.
 
I would just leave the spring unless you are having ignition issues. Which doesn't sound like it.
I played with some heavier springs in my 700's as they were all I could get easily at the time. There was no difference in accuracy. Only things I got where a heavier bolt lift and perhaps a faster lock time. But that is measured in ms. Hard to tell.

I have a Tikka also. Was looking at the spring set up. It is a bit of a challenge to change. I may make a tool soon, just to have one. The little clip is the issue.
 
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