Firing pins

Could you have possibly interchanged some terms?

Case hardening involves packing low carbon steel parts into a canister with charcoal, and heating it so that carbon from the charcoal will penetrate into the surface of the steel and make it able to be hardened. (There are other methods, all totally out of the scope of a small shop.)

A drill bit is, at the very least, going to be high carbon steel, possibly on up to various grades of high-speed steel. Case hardening it would give ZERO benefit, it already has plenty of carbon.

I fully believe that you heat treated it. I'm just saying that you probably didn't case harden it.

Sorry if this comes off argumentative, that's not my intention at all.
You are probably right. With case hardening (Kasenit from Dixie Gun Works) a file bounces off the surface. Without it a file cuts. this is true of a drill bit. I was taught a procedure, the result was a reliable part that worked well and did not break. I was told heating a firing pin made from a drill shank to a dull glow and then tossing it in oil wasn't quite enough as the tip shank would be too brittle and would break.
The gunsmith I learned this from was apprenticed in Germany in the 1920's. He called the procedure "carbonizing".
The fellow made most of his gunsmithing tools , including headspace gauges that had a 40 T.P.I. adjustable plug that could be either preset or adjusted to exact headspace with a long screwdriver down the bore. What was remarkable was that the plug would turn out and he could read the exact headspace because the head of the plug plug was stamped with index marks like a micrometer. One full turn was. 0.025" , never seen that since.
 
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