I loaded some 22-250 shell on the weekend. The first shot out of a cold barrel is deadly accurate. The second a little worse, third doesn't even touch the target. I am shooting them out of a heavy barreled Savage. I can only assume that the barrel must be heating up, but I can't imagine that much heat after 3 shots. Anybody have any ideas for me?
First shot perfect, then goes to hell
- Thread starter Mooner
- Start date
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Check bedding,and action screws, barrel contact with forend , scope setup...
Levi Garrett said:
x2
Nugget used to have a Savage 110 in 7 Rem Mag that grouped about 24" MOA.
We found the front action screw was tightened in so far it would gall the bolt head and there was so much pressure on the forend tip the barrel was bending! Once he hogged out the barrel channel it closed down to about 8" MOA. I think that was the best it got and he finally sold the thing.
Hopefully this isn't the case with yours.
Noel
JohnC
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
sounds like you should also check the reloads. have you tried repeating the cold barrel experiment. try several shots letting the barrel cool down between each. are you weighing every charge & using the same brass etc..
JohnC said:
Yeah John, if I let it cool off it shoots the first shot perfect. I am using the same brass, FL sized. The cases are all trimmed to spec. I am throwing powder, measuring every fifth throw. They are all within a percent.
Brass
If the gun shoots with factory ammo with no worries then your reloads are the next thing to look at. I will aggree with the previous statement about powder charges and brass. I've learned through a lot of experience that the key to accurate ammo is in the details.( **** never stray from published data on loads )
1) Brass: a must that they be all the same make and preferably lot #. Without exception I trim and measure each brass to .001" of consistancy
2) Set your scale up on a level clean surface and Zero it before weighing charges. Weigh each charge down to the granule.
3) Seating bullets: Make sure your die is solid. You can play with depth another time but make sure each bullet is seated to the same depth.
If the gun checks out and the reloads are fine but things are not better check to see the gun is unloaded,grasp firmly by the barrel, and wrap it around a fence post. Purchase a new gun and repeat all steps. If you are still doing this in a few years and it is affecting your life I'm sure you can find a gunaholics anonymous meeting near you.
If the gun shoots with factory ammo with no worries then your reloads are the next thing to look at. I will aggree with the previous statement about powder charges and brass. I've learned through a lot of experience that the key to accurate ammo is in the details.( **** never stray from published data on loads )
1) Brass: a must that they be all the same make and preferably lot #. Without exception I trim and measure each brass to .001" of consistancy
2) Set your scale up on a level clean surface and Zero it before weighing charges. Weigh each charge down to the granule.
3) Seating bullets: Make sure your die is solid. You can play with depth another time but make sure each bullet is seated to the same depth.
If the gun checks out and the reloads are fine but things are not better check to see the gun is unloaded,grasp firmly by the barrel, and wrap it around a fence post. Purchase a new gun and repeat all steps. If you are still doing this in a few years and it is affecting your life I'm sure you can find a gunaholics anonymous meeting near you.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Check all action and scope screws, including the base mount screws. All screws must be tight, but not over tightened. Clean the bore to remove all copper fouling. Check the crown for damage. If a problem persists, try a second scope and see if that resolves the issue. As a last resort check the bedding as advised above. When you shoot, is the barrel in contact with the rest, or is the rifle rested on a hard surface?
Does the rifle continue to shoot factory ammo acceptably? Do fired cases look normal? Is ejection, feeding, and bolt lock up normal? Are the cases in good shape, or are primer pockets getting loose, and cracks beginning to appear in the case body? If you are using VLD's, boat-tail spitzers, or heavy for caliber bullets - try a shorter bullet with a longer bearing surface, perhaps a 55 gr flat base. Is the powder you are using compatible with the bullet weight?
Does the rifle continue to shoot factory ammo acceptably? Do fired cases look normal? Is ejection, feeding, and bolt lock up normal? Are the cases in good shape, or are primer pockets getting loose, and cracks beginning to appear in the case body? If you are using VLD's, boat-tail spitzers, or heavy for caliber bullets - try a shorter bullet with a longer bearing surface, perhaps a 55 gr flat base. Is the powder you are using compatible with the bullet weight?
Mooner,
Go back to your factory loads and see if they are still shooting around the inch mark. Bet they don't. Also is the lack of accuracy with the handloads repeatable? It's hard to screw up loads so bad in a 22/250 that you can't keep them on paper at 100 yards, but some combinations like 75 grain bullets and 1-14 twists might do it. I'd like to know a little about your load to have something to go on.
Nobody weighed the powder or trimmed the cases within .001" in your factory loads, by the way.Save the fine tuning for after you eliminate the big problems. If the factory loads don't shoot anymore look to a scope or mount problem but first take a look at your guard screws to see if one isn't backed out.
Dogleg
Go back to your factory loads and see if they are still shooting around the inch mark. Bet they don't. Also is the lack of accuracy with the handloads repeatable? It's hard to screw up loads so bad in a 22/250 that you can't keep them on paper at 100 yards, but some combinations like 75 grain bullets and 1-14 twists might do it. I'd like to know a little about your load to have something to go on.
Nobody weighed the powder or trimmed the cases within .001" in your factory loads, by the way.Save the fine tuning for after you eliminate the big problems. If the factory loads don't shoot anymore look to a scope or mount problem but first take a look at your guard screws to see if one isn't backed out.
Dogleg
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todbartell said:
Ditto Except switch rem for Sako
BTW are you using varget,it noted(and I expect arguement) for heating up very fast. Jack O'connor took some 22/250 cases one day and scooped them into a pale of powder,without weighing.( I believe it was 4350). fired them all into a sub 1 1/2" at 100. called the cartridge boring as it was unable to screw up. Like I said I've seen heat probs with varget but yours sounds worse. I think you,ve got something loose..
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Boomer said:
Factory ammo shoots fine. Cases look perfect. No feed, or ejection issues. The load I used is: 55gr Sierra PSP, 38.0 gr H380, Winchester large rifle primers. Brass is once fired Remington. The rifle is a Savage 12FVSS. I have shot this rifle lots with factory ammo (with no troubles), and thought I would try some reloads in it.
Your rifle just doesn't like that load. Especially if you're factory ammo is the same bullet weight. Change powders. Try some IMR4064 or IMR4895. These powders are given in my old Lyman manual as accuracy loads for 55 grain jacketed bullets.
If you just picked a powder and charge weight, you need to work up a load. Load 4 rounds, beginning with the 'starting' load, carefully weighing each charge, go up by half a grain, loading 4 of each until you reach the max. Be sure and keep them separated by load. Then go shooting, off a bench, for group only. Once you have the most accurate load, you can load with that charge weight all the time. Or until you change any one component. Do that and you have to work up the load again.
If you just picked a powder and charge weight, you need to work up a load. Load 4 rounds, beginning with the 'starting' load, carefully weighing each charge, go up by half a grain, loading 4 of each until you reach the max. Be sure and keep them separated by load. Then go shooting, off a bench, for group only. Once you have the most accurate load, you can load with that charge weight all the time. Or until you change any one component. Do that and you have to work up the load again.
JCM298 said:
Not yet John, but that is a good idea. I use to shoot this exact load combination out of a Remington 700 with exeptional accuracy. I figure that it couldn't be that far off with a different rifle, but I guessed wrong.
I was a rangemaster at a local club after I retired. I don't reload for rifles, but I used to listen to the old time benchrest shooters comparing notes. I can remember two shooters talking for hours about the .22-250 and the problems they had getting an accurate load.
John
John
Results from only one single load shouldn't be given too much weight. If you've only eve tried 38 grains of 380, I'd suggest you try a few others. 37.5, 38.0, 38.5 of 380, maybe 35.0 35.5 and 36.0 of 4064, Varget and a couple others.
However, it IS strange that they are THAT bad when factory is OK. The 22-250 is supposed to be easy to load for - is the powder OK? How about the primers? Maybe you're getting inconsistent ignition? Have you chronied any of them?
However, it IS strange that they are THAT bad when factory is OK. The 22-250 is supposed to be easy to load for - is the powder OK? How about the primers? Maybe you're getting inconsistent ignition? Have you chronied any of them?
prosper said:
Powder was bought new 1 week ago. Looks fine. Good seal on can. I haven't chronied any yet, but talked to a friend who has one I can borrow. I haven't done a whole lot of experimenting with loads for this rifle yet. I will try working up with H380, and I have a number of other powders to try.
