Fitting a wood stock

[Potashminer]

Maybe not gunsmithing, per se, but how to fit a reproduction stock?

Now that I have accumulated the various metal bits, I am looking to fit together into a reproduction stock. The rifle is a Swede m94-14 carbine. Now, where to start? I have not found a single hole or slot to be "drop in" - all has to be scraped or enlarged for the metal part to fit - I am assuming was all done on purpose that way. I think if starting from a wood block to make a stock, that one would first drill the holes for the action screws - then fit the action / magazine, etc. But not really certain where to start on this reproduction - do not want to fuss for a time and end up with assembly too far forward or too far rearward within the wood - if I can help it.

Any suggestions about what to get lined up first, would be appreciated. Actually executing that - neatly - is another discussion - for now I am head-scratching where to start - what is first thing to make fit. And wood finishing for even later - I suspect for now is to get all the metal parts to fit to the wood.

 

[b72471]

1894 swede

 

[tiriaq]

The relationship between the trigger guard and the receiver is critical.
Do you have long inletting guide screws for the front and rear?

 

[Potashminer]

Your second picture showing about what I want to avoid - is a gap to rear of that band where the hand guard slides under. Also that band has a sling loop on the bottom, yet the butt stock appears set up as cavalry style side sling - the band that I just received has the sling loop on the side - what I thought the Swede cavalry carbine m94 and m94-14 used. There is also a bayonet adaption that was installed by CG armoury in 1914 so that that m94 could use a bayonet - so is also a "front sight guard" that appears to slide over the front sight - your front appears to be like on an m38 or possibly m96 - but both of those in the Crown Jewels book show both front and rear sling swivels on the bottom edge of the butt stock.

 

[Potashminer]

The relationship between the trigger guard and the receiver is critical.
Do you have long inletting guide screws for the front and rear?

Yes, I have the headless stock maker screws from Brownell's for Mauser threads - is about what I suspected to be the starting point - but the hole through the stock just slightly too small for those stock maker screws (or rear action screw) to fit through - need to be opened slightly. I was not certain which way to move the centre of that hole, or to keep centre where it is? To be determined, I think.

 

[bearhunter]

Your second picture showing about what I want to avoid - is a gap to rear of that band where the hand guard slides under. Also that band has a sling loop on the bottom, yet the butt stock appears set up as cavalry style side sling - the band that I just received has the sling loop on the side - what I thought the Swede cavalry carbine m94 and m94-14 used. There is also a bayonet adaption that was installed by CG armoury in 1914 so that that m94 could use a bayonet - so is also a "front sight guard" that appears to slide over the front sight - your front appears to be like on an m38 or possibly m96 - but both of those in the Crown Jewels book show both front and rear sling swivels on the bottom edge of the butt stock.

That gap is often purposely made to enhance accuracy. If the top handguard is to tight in the keepers, it creates pressure on the forestock and maybe even on the barrel.

I believe Numrich has surplus fore end metal for the M94 Swede.

 

[Potashminer]

For sure, at the time that I ordered, Numrich had the screw and flat washer thing for the m94-14 bayonet mount - but, at that time, did not have any more than that, that I was looking for. Picture below showing a second bayonet thing, and a second big head screw and flat washer, that I was able to get from EE on CGN - I am presuming I have assembled all the bits that were used - most definitely "not matching", but I think they are all "original" metal parts - not reproduction.

 

[bearhunter]

Looks like you're good to go.

When those lovely little carbines first came into Canada, they came in two different calibers, 6.5x55 and a few 7x57 models made for export. They look identical and can be difficult to tell the difference between them.

The first rifles were pristine and mathcing. Later rifles varied from VG+ matching to Fair only as well as lots of VG+ condition mismatched rifles in between.

 

[Potashminer]

This one very much going to be a "wanna be" - is a New, never fired m94 barrel from TradeEx, then with m94 sights that were salvaged off a pooched m94 rusty barrel. Receiver with thumb cut out has no markings on the front ring - but has the CG "straight" crown on the lower right side - might have been from a sporter, originally. Reproduction wood stock and hand guard, sling and sling buckle - I wanted an m94 example to go with a similar condition m38 and a m96 - none will pass muster to a collector - none are original, at all - but fit to the "profile" or "scenario" - is about all that I can afford versus what all matching, originals go for these days...

 

[Decker9]

If you happen to be on the rockslide forum, I have a stock building thread going with a fare bit of info in it, but it is from a blank, not a reproduction (semi inlet?)

The two semi inlet stocks I have done, both had messed up screw holes which cause alot of grief. I would open them up evenly all around with a small round file until your guide screws fit the holes. Inletting black on the metalwork will leave marks where wood needs to be removed either by scraping or chiseling.

Ime, working from a blank is a lot easier to do a nice job.

 

[slug]

The headless stock screws are good, but for final fitting, I like the ones with the crank that let's you draw the receiver into the stock.

 

[sean69]

Any suggestions about what to get lined up first, would be appreciated. Actually executing that - neatly - is another discussion - for now I am head-scratching where to start - what is first thing to make fit. And wood finishing for even later - I suspect for now is to get all the metal parts to fit to the wood.

How was the stock made, CNC or done on a duplicator? Is the trigger guard/magazine well/plate already inlet?

Every duplicator stock I have ever seen has had issues of some sort or another that need to be fixed.

I would not sweat the bolt holes - in fact I would probably plug them and re-drill or bed the action rather than fussing with it.
I think the most critical bit is going to be making sure the bottom metal aligns with the action correctly.

so - "it depends" if the bottom metal is already fully inlet and the bolt holes in the stock do not line up - drill them out larger until you can get the bolts through and see where the action sits in the stock. Hopefully there are no gaps behind the action and best case a bit of wood needs to be removed. (from behind the action)

If the bottom metal is not inlet (or completely inlet) - ignore where the holes are, get a good fit of the action to wood making sure the barrel is straight and level in the channel - then fill/plug/relocate your bolt holes and inlet the bottom metal.

 

[Potashminer]

All Good - thank you sean69. As mentioned, is most definitely going to be a "bitser" - not a hope to be all original at all. Receiver has the straight CG Swede crown - there are three CG trigger guard / magazines here - not one will fit to the inletting that exists for the bottom - so sounds like the place to start. In all three cases, will require some scraping for the rear of magazine box, to get it to slide in to that mortice.

I have a few older stocks for Parker Hale (?) or similar - I believe they were done on a duplicator - exterior is a bunch of slight grooves as if the cutters not exactly lined up on the duplicating machine - this one has much smoother exterior, so I suspect is made with a CNC machine - to be seen about the final finish - have to get this metal to fit first, I think.

From yesterday - the "best" fitting of the three choices into that stock.

 

[sean69]

All Good - thank you sean69. As mentioned, is most definitely going to be a "bitser" - not a hope to be all original at all. Receiver has the straight CG Swede crown - there are three CG trigger guard / magazines here - not one will fit to the inletting that exists for the bottom - so sounds like the place to start. In all three cases, will require some scraping for the rear of magazine box, to get it to slide in to that mortice.

I have a few older stocks for Parker Hale (?) or similar - I believe they were done on a duplicator - exterior is a bunch of slight grooves as if the cutters not exactly lined up on the duplicating machine - this one has much smoother exterior, so I suspect is made with a CNC machine - to be seen about the final finish - have to get this metal to fit first, I think.

yes - that sounds like the place to start - chopping through that end grain is gonna suck though ;( at least once that is done you can use the holes in the bottom metal to locate your action.

Duplicator made stocks are pretty easy to spot, there will be tooling marks all over the place that a CNC won't leave - they are basically big 3d pantograph machines that you manually operate with a hand router.
The grooves you see on the other stocks are pretty standard - a couple more passes with the router can almost get rid of them, but generally an "offset" of around 1/16" is used so the stocks wind up "bigger" leaving some room for corrections, sanding etc. i.e. nothing is supposed to fit out of the box on a duplicated stock. This also makes inlets (barrels, mag wells etc) smaller.

The biggest problem with duplicated stocks is that they are rarely symmetrical and usually inlets are slightly off center or poorly located. Just a symptom of the machine resolution and setup issues.

 

[HIGHLANDBEAGLES]

I have recently converted two 98's over to 96's.
Line up the rear bolt in the bottom metal and go from there.