Fixing the "damn crack" in my No4 MK 1 Pictures added

rodauto

rodauto

Regular
Rating - 100%
39   0   0
Location
Saskatchewan
Hi All,
Bought this rifle a while ago and just cleaned the bore and shot it, lousy groups!!!!
Took the stock off and found the draws had been repaired in what looked like a very old well done repair. Unfortunately one of the repair blocks was shattered, made a replacement one and decided to fix the crack in the stock behind the trigger group. After removing the strap found the other draw was loose and needed to replace the whole section right back to the cross strap on that side!! I had to remove the metal strap to do this so now I need a new rivet to be able to reinstall the strap. Looked at Marstar and they don't list them. Anybody know where I can get one in Canada, seems like a $2.00 part that would cost $20.00 to ship from the States?

Rodney
 
Last edited:
 
Thanks Doug,

I looked through the Knowledge library but didn't see the one about repairing a split stock. Looks like exactly what I need!! Was worried about having a permanent fix on a gun that I will be shooting a lot but between the JB Weld and the screw mentioned in the article I think the old girl will live again!

Rodney
 
AsJohn suggested I went to Lowes and found a 3 foot section of 1/8 brass rod, had to drill out the holes in the metal cross piece about 1/32 larger but now have a very strong riveted support for the rear of the stock. Went out with the rifle this weekend and groups went from 6 inches plus before the crack repair and draws replacement to 3 1/2 by 2 inches!!! If only I could see the front sight properly!!!
Will take the rifle apart this week to see if the crack repair is holding
I now have enough material to make at least 10 more rivets so will have to buy more guns!!
Rodney
 
Fixing the damn crack Pictures added

IMG_2423.jpgIMG_2422.jpgIMG_2424.jpgIMG_2426.jpgIMG_2425.jpg

The pictures above show the bits and pieces that fell out of the stock when I took it apart. OK some pieces were still in place until I removed the cross strap but didn't have to be persuaded!! The area behind the draws on the right side was just an assortment of splinters so I replaced the whole section all the way back. This way the action is captured nice and tight on the stock and no movement.
As you can see in the one picture, the " damn crack" is back!!!! Will have to cut out a complete section of the rear and key in a new piece. The wood is so oil soaked I think that it is really beyond repair so now just playing. The draws repairs on both sides held and I see good contact on both, fired 60 rounds on the weekend and very happy with the results. (other than the crack of course)
Also eliminated the ishy screw and after a few applications of the linseed oil it will be a lot less obvious.


Rodney
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2422.jpg
    IMG_2422.jpg
    58 KB · Views: 316
  • IMG_2423.jpg
    IMG_2423.jpg
    60.4 KB · Views: 320
  • IMG_2424.jpg
    IMG_2424.jpg
    47.7 KB · Views: 321
  • IMG_2425.jpg
    IMG_2425.jpg
    56.7 KB · Views: 318
  • IMG_2426.jpg
    IMG_2426.jpg
    48.4 KB · Views: 317
When you figure out the repair on this one I'll get you to walk me through the repair on my Sharps rifle stock.

Brad
 
Stress in the stock is splitting the wood. Cut out the center & add a new piece. If you have to clamp it tight to close the gaps it will just split somewhere else. You may be better off with a machine screw & nut instead of a rivet. Why does everybody hate that "ishy" screw so much?
 
desporterizer said:
Stress in the stock is splitting the wood. Cut out the center & add a new piece. If you have to clamp it tight to close the gaps it will just split somewhere else. You may be better off with a machine screw & nut instead of a rivet. Why does everybody hate that "ishy" screw so much?
Click to expand...

That "Ishy screw" was a very practical approach to a real problem. While we tend to think in terms of "here" and "today" relating things to their present state, we really should look at the time and place of things to put them in perspective.

In India, there was a large variation in climate and locations where the Military had to use a rifle. This ranged from high, hot and dry mountains and deserts to low, steamy and humid swamps. Add to this the periodical rains and dry periods that can make wood absorb water and then dry it out, and you have a recipe for splits and cracks in a gunstock. That "Ishy screw" helped prevent these cracks and splits in a vulnerable area of the stock. And, it is a legitimate ARSENAL repair.
 
Like many, I too have been frustrated by oil soaked wood. I favor PVA (carpenter's yellow) glue as a rule, but have found it relatively ineffective for oil saturated wood. I have found epoxy to give a better, but still weak, bond. I have been told Lee Valley carries an epoxy that works well with oil soaked wood, but haven't tried it yet.
I have adopted a process that seems to yield a substantially better bond with epoxies in situations like this.

Drill a series of small diameter holes in the surfaces to be glued. The diameter is somewhat dependent on the surface area to be glued, but about 3/32" to 1/8" would be reasonable. Where possible, I shoot for a depth of about 1/8" to perhaps 1/4".
Flood the surfaces with a fast-drying solvent and blot dry. You may have to do that multiple times.
Work the epoxy into the holes on both surfaces, clamp and let dry. The faster drying epoxies are weaker than their slower counterparts and I believe the bond may also be weaker.

The holes increase the surface area for the glue to grab and I believe they also substantially increase the shear strength of the joint. In my opinion, the walls of the holes also introduce an element of shear strength when pulling the joint apart. In a crack like this, I think a person could also inlet two or three shop made wire staples across the joint and epoxy them in place. Drill holes for the legs and inlet the bridge.
 
I drilled out the section where the rivet goes for the back strap and glued in a dowel after making the new part for the draws, then drilled it for the rivet. Worked good and shot the rifle for a few different range trips with no problem. Then found a NOS stock on ebay so put a complete new stock on it after all the time I spent on the old one!! Was a good learning experience though and I really enjoyed the challenge. Sold the stock to a guy that wanted to make a good looking wall hanger.
Rodney
 
buffdog said:
That "Ishy screw" was a very practical approach to a real problem. While we tend to think in terms of "here" and "today" relating things to their present state, we really should look at the time and place of things to put them in perspective.

In India, there was a large variation in climate and locations where the Military had to use a rifle. This ranged from high, hot and dry mountains and deserts to low, steamy and humid swamps. Add to this the periodical rains and dry periods that can make wood absorb water and then dry it out, and you have a recipe for splits and cracks in a gunstock. That "Ishy screw" helped prevent these cracks and splits in a vulnerable area of the stock. And, it is a legitimate ARSENAL repair.
Click to expand...

I figured the dowel glued in would do the same as the screw and look better in the mean time, could have counter sunk the screw and put a plug on top of it also to hide it?
Rodney
 
If the draws are crushed or damaged, also check the seating/bedding at the front of the receiver.

Brass has a lot of "stretch". I would use stainless steel, scratched (drill and sandpaper) then coated with epoxy.

In future, store your repaired and de-oiled rifle muzzel down.
 
I use Gorilla super.glue, amazing hold strength
Even on oiled wood, I've repair side lock sxs in tang and wrist
With ease, soak out as much as possible using heat gun
Along with acetone, glue both surfaces and clamp overnight
Never had one not.hold
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom