FL Reszing or Neck sizing?

TrevorF

TrevorF

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I was told to neck size only for my bolt guns. Now I'm reading articles and watching videos that say neck sizing isn't the way to go and you only end up bumping the case should back after a few firings anyway.

So do I toss my collet dies in favor of a FL busing die?

Thanks,

Trevor
 
Find what works for you. I neck size and then bump when closing the bolt has resistance. I can't tell a difference in accuracy so I don't worry about it. I like the collet dies for setting the neck tension- so when I bump I neck size too. Trends come and trends go. Find if it makes a difference for you- for me I'm not good enough to notice.
 
Have experimented with this fairly extensively in both AI’s and Barret MRAD. Found that FL is the way too go. NS worked but was not as consistent. My experience and reccomendation.....stick with FL and use an expander that gives you min. neck tension i.e. .001. MHO.
 
I found the effectiveness of my neck sizing varies depending on how often I anneal but like some of the other guys said I found my own skill to be the limiting factor more often than neck tension. More than anything else I stick to collet NS because I find I end up trimming less. I did find my velocities/es/sd's more consistent across the board but not by a whole lot. At the moment I'll only FL when the brass gets shared between different rifles or when it's got a ton of mileage on it.

I'd keep the dies if I were you. YMMV.
 
AIkid said:
Have experimented with this fairly extensively in both AI’s and Barret MRAD. Found that FL is the way too go. NS worked but was not as consistent. My experience and reccomendation.....stick with FL and use an expander that gives you min. neck tension i.e. .001. MHO.
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That's what I have eventually found at least for my skill level
 
Ok, first off, what are you planning on shooting? Hunting? Plinking? Or Target? Because you posted in precision forum I'll go with target. If one is shooting PRS matches you should be full length resizing, you often shoot in crapy conditions, get some crud in the chamber and you might not get the bolt closed. If shooting Fclass matches neck sizing and shoulder bump is the way to go. If you are feeding from a mag you should have more neck tension than single feed. Same goes for if you are mag feeding heavier recoiling cartridge even more neck tension is needed to hold the bullet from set back.
 
twosmokinspades said:
Ok, first off, what are you planning on shooting? Hunting? Plinking? Or Target? Because you posted in precision forum I'll go with target. If one is shooting PRS matches you should be full length resizing, you often shoot in crapy conditions, get some crud in the chamber and you might not get the bolt closed. If shooting Fclass matches neck sizing and shoulder bump is the way to go. If you are feeding from a mag you should have more neck tension than single feed. Same goes for if you are mag feeding heavier recoiling cartridge even more neck tension is needed to hold the bullet from set back.
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Officially, plinking. I've got a 308 with a Krieger Barrel, 6-24x50 scope in a chassis. I'm feeding from a mag. I've got some really nice reloading equipment and just want to make the most precise ammo possible.
After reading and watching some videos I'm thinking I'll go with turned necks, FL bushing die for both my 308 target and my 30-06 hunting rifle.
Thanks guys.
 
TrevorF said:
Officially, plinking. I've got a 308 with a Krieger Barrel, 6-24x50 scope in a chassis. I'm feeding from a mag. I've got some really nice reloading equipment and just want to make the most precise ammo possible.
After reading and watching some videos I'm thinking I'll go with turned necks, FL bushing die for both my 308 target and my 30-06 hunting rifle.
Thanks guys.
Click to expand...

That's a good place to start. Don't forget to think about annealing after firing. I anneal after each firing. After 3 firings the neck changes enough that it can start to change your results.
 
twosmokinspades said:
That's a good place to start. Don't forget to think about annealing after firing. I anneal after each firing. After 3 firings the neck changes enough that it can start to change your results.
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Not set up for annealing. Does what you're saying apply to cases that are already annealed when you buy them?
 
Sorry for the late reply was working out of town. When you buy per annealed case that's a start but... the case begins to work harden as soon as the first firing. (So I am told by shooters that know more than I will ever know). Most top shooters anneal after ever firing.
 
twosmokinspades said:
Sorry for the late reply was working out of town. When you buy per annealed case that's a start but... the case begins to work harden as soon as the first firing. (So I am told by shooters that know more than I will ever know). Most top shooters anneal after ever firing.
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Had no idea. Thanks.
 
All new brass is annealed. Most manufacturers simply polish the colouring off before sending them to the store shelves. In fact - and especially with bottle necked cases or large cases with relatively small necks - brass is annealed several times through the drawing process. You just don't see visible evidence of it, that's all.

Rooster
 
For me what's worked was FL 1st firing then Neck Size for 2 then start again.
I have also started annealing now after every load.

But that's just what works for me.

JJ
 
Spend your time shooting in the wind not messing with your cases.

I neck size and batch by run out with a mark on the case so i load them with the sharpie mark facing the same way.

Bump the shoulders when they get tight and trim often. Toss and repeat.

Miss a wind change you miss the tgt, never mind the 1/8 minute advantage on the case.
 
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