Flash Hider Position. Afraid to Force It. Advice?

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int3grity

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I got my new three prong flash hider that has a lip around the back where the threads are that covers about half an inch of the barrel. The instructions say that a little hole on the bottom of that lip needs to be facing down. Unfortunately after I put on the crush washer and turn the flash hider on to the threading of the barrel all the way the whole is one quarter turn past where it needs to be. The end of the barrel is touching the end of the flash Hyder on the inside and I am afraid to take a ranch and turn at an additional three quarters because I am afraid it may not go any further. Should I just ream on it? Will it go another 3/4 turn when the end of the barrel has reached the end of the inside of the flash hider? Or should I get some thin washers to add with the crush washer instead?
 
Pics would really help. That being said, you should be able to get another 3/4 of a turn with the crush washer if it hasn't been compressed at all prior to turning it another 3/4 turn.
 
If the end of the barrel has contacted/jammed against the flash hider inside stop/trunnion, you can't force(tighten) it any more.

Or in other words, if the barrel and flash hider are rotated past the timing mark AND bottomed out against each other, some form of shim/spacer/washer will be needed to make the flash hider "stand off" enough to be re-tightened clockwise to the proper timing reference mark.

If I understand your post correctly.
 
A crush washer should have a bit more than a full rotation once you start compressing it, so I guess it depends on how much you've compressed it already.
 
skypilot said:
If the end of the barrel has contacted/jammed against the flash hider inside stop/trunnion, you can't force(tighten) it any more.

Or in other words, if the barrel and flash hider are rotated past the timing mark AND bottomed out against each other, some form of shim/spacer/washer will be needed to make the flash hider "stand off" enough to be re-tightened clockwise to the proper timing reference mark.

If I understand your post correctly.
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It looks like this is my issue since when I put the flash Hyder on without the crush washer it stops at the exact same point. It looks like I need to get some shim washers but it's crazy how hard they are to find.
 
int3grity said:
It looks like this is my issue since when I put the flash Hyder on without the crush washer it stops at the exact same point. It looks like I need to get some shim washers but it's crazy how hard they are to find.
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Not sure where you are located but some of our forum sponsors may have them.

Or try Coretac Solutions in ON. Maybe hardware stores?
 
When the Canadian Forces received the C7/C8, we were given shims that you could peel them apart in order to make the flash eliminator line up! By leaving a few extra we found we could put a small torque on them to ensure tightness in battle and the users could NOT take them off to clean!
 
It is a 3-prong flash suppressor. WHY does it need to be timed or mounted in any specific orientation?

Also I can guarantee you 100000% that it is not possible for the barrel to be in contact with the FH if there is a crush washer in between the two.

My advice. Screw the FH on till it begins to tighten. Turn another 1/3 to 1/2 turn and it is mounted properly. Timing a prong type FH is wholely pointless.
 
Suputin said:
It is a 3-prong flash suppressor. WHY does it need to be timed or mounted in any specific orientation?

Also I can guarantee you 100000% that it is not possible for the barrel to be in contact with the FH if there is a crush washer in between the two.

My advice. Screw the FH on till it begins to tighten. Turn another 1/3 to 1/2 turn and it is mounted properly. Timing a prong type FH is wholely pointless.
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IF you are speaking of the GI style 3 prong this is true.
There are however some "3 prong" style muzzle devices that DO require indexing. Our LFE is 1 example.
 
Suputin said:
Also I can guarantee you 100000% that it is not possible for the barrel to be in contact with the FH if there is a crush washer in between the two.
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I have seen it a few times. But it was usually the result of poorly made/ designed brakes and flash hiders. I had to throw them in the lathe to get them to work.
 
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