Flash Hole Deburring.

Do you deburr your primer flash holes?


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LittleBoyLefty

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Was noticing the latest bag of Winchester brass I bought is really badly burred on the inside of the case.

This has me considering adding the step of flash hole deburring to my case prep SOP.

I'm curious what you guys do.I shoot alot, mostly for load development and practice for hunting. I'm not a benchrest guy, but like very accurate hunting loads. :cool: Is the extra step worth the time?
 
Good brass has drilled flasholes, not punched, and doesn't require it and I tend to use those anyway. I do it if the cases need it though on the cheaper brass.
 
Out of habit I do it with all my rifle load that I want accuracy out of. Every little bit helps when trying to squeeze out accuracy...

just my 2 cents...
 
I deburr all my rifle brass that don't have a drilled flash hole. That practise, along with uniforming all primer pockets, has not improved over-all accuracy a great deal but it has almost totally eliminated the so-called fliers a lot of shooters seem to discount.

When hunting the "fliers" count too. ;)
 
I deburr all my rifle brass. It only takes about twenty minutes to deburr 50 by hand. Really do not know if it helps or not.
 
If it is not drilled (Lapua or Norma Case, maybe Hornady or Nolser match, but I am not sure about these two) deburr it. If consistent accuracy and a low SD in velocity is what you are after, everything helps. Then again, I weigh and batch all my brass into 1 gr lots.
 
LittleBoyLefty said:
That is a great quote, 'Boo. Consistent accuracy is 'real' accuracy.

That is why even though I don't shoot benchrest I use a lot of the same techniques the benchrest crowd use to reduce velocity deviations.

I cut the primer pockets to the same depth so the firing pin hit is consistent.
I clean flash holes, again for consistent ignition.
I trim case necks so that they are all the same thickness so that the bullet tension is equal for all rounds which again promotes consistency.

After taking as many variables out of each individual load I then can work on playing with seating depths etc. to improve accuracy.

I also enjoy hand-loading as a hobby of it's own and the tinkering with loads is rewarding. It also can be helpfull when you attempt a shot on game that you are 100% certain you can make thanks to the ammunition you have developed.


Look at the small deviations in the velocity of the different loads with this load I worked up recently. Note the deviation is less than .00025% :eek:

a-spreadsheet.jpg
 
I have a brass bit that is to SAMIS spec and any newly fired brass I drill and deburr, but generally only need to the first time I prep new brass. Previous posters are correct, drilled flash holes are better than punched, but there is no reason why you cannot do it yourself to ensure all of your brass is as uniform as possible.

edit: good idea on the primer pocket depth, I should do that as well. Currently I just ensure that it is as clean and free of residue as possible. What tool do you use to ensure consistent primer depth? Do you use a jig of some sort?
 
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If I am using brass which is punched I always de-burr for the exact same reasons as 'Boo, consistent velocities, eliminate fliers and mabey most importantly for piece of mind. These factors give me confidence in my gear and then I can be sure it was me that screwed up the shot and not a problem with my gear or loads.

For these reasons I sort my brass to +/- .5gr, uniform primer pockets and weigh all of my charges to .1 gr.

I don't go as far as the BR guys and weigh bullets and primers cause well the cost/benefit doesn't pay off for me.

Ivo
 
I just bought a flash hole deburring tool. I want all my rounds to be as accurate as I can. The more I shoot I find the little things that are often overlooked just tightens up my groups, not much but a little here and there and next thing you know you're shotting 1/2 inch groups or better on a regular basis.:)
 
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