Flat and v springs

Gun hog

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Anyone else here get fed up looking for obsolete springs or have light strikes with modern guns and just build your own? It's not as hard as I once thought. Here's how I do it.
I torched out the top leaf (thickest one) from the back axle of a 94 chev 3/4 ton truck. Likely any leaf would work but this has worked very well for me and it's what I had. Take a grinder with a zip cut disk(1/16) and cut a sliver off the leaf slightly larger than the spring u are making. Grind to near desired size and file the rest ensuring that the lines do not go against the flex of the spring. Ensure all file marks go with the flex of the spring on all 4 surfaces. Now begin bending. Use vice grips to hold and heat with propane till soft. Take your time and don't get frustrated, it's only iron. Once the shape is close enough trim to length. On the lock springs I've made, there was a pin type tit attached to the spring. Mig weld to build up from the spring and shape with a dremel to make these type of spring. Now to heat treat. I use canola oil that was used for making some fries lol. Take some tie wire and wrap your spring to hold it. Using a propane torch ( or several depending on size of spring) bring spring to as red hot as propane will take it and quench into your oil. I do this on my stove under the kitchen fan as outside is always too cold or windy. After a min in the cool oil draw some temper by turning the torch down low and ignite the oil that is on the spring. Allow it to burn off entirely, dip in oil and burn off oil again. Now u can buff off the oil residue with wire wheel. For v springs, compress in a vice and when they come back they are set. And that's it, no special equipment or time consuming procedures. I can make a spring from start to fitting in the gun in about an hour and I've done it this way enough times to be confident enough to share this method with my fellow nutz. Message any questions or post here.
 
Some springs can cost way too much if u can even find them. I hope people can benefit from what I learned. My girlfriend was having a lot of light strikes with her NAA mini revolver but that's fixed now.
 
I make 5 to 10 flat V springs per year and have done so for quite a few years. I use drill rod almost exclusively because it is consistent and repeatable in terms of heat treating. For flintlock mainsprings I use 3/8" drill rod and heat it red hot so that I can forge it to approximate thickness. For most springs that means about .1" on the upper leg and tapering to .070" at the tip of the lower leg. I grind the spring to width leaving a wide piece for the little tit that goes through the side plate and doing that allows me to position the little tit accurately after the spring is bent to its final shape. I do all bending with the metal red hot and while still at the filing stage I anneal the metal in a bucket of wood ash.
for heat treating I heat the spring red hot and quench in water then draw to spring temper in molten lead (think bullet casting electric lead pot) to 720 - 740 F measure with a high temperature thermometer and I keep the spring in the lead for 3 minutes using a clock because it is remarkable how long 3 minutes is when you are actually watching a clock

I don't use automotive springs I don't know what temperature to draw the temper to. The few times I have tried using automotive springs, they were still too hard and broke

cheers mooncoon
 
I think your problems using automotive steel is likely due to the water quench however I'm no expert. I do know that my method works with the free material I have on hand and it's fast and simple.
 
I think the problem is more likely in not heating the hardened spring hot enough to draw the temper correctly. I also suspect that the automotive springs may simply have an inherent "springyness" without heating and quenching etc. I do know they can be bent to take a permanent set because quite a few years ago I wanted a piece of flat tough steel and thought that automotive leaf springs started out flat. The local spring shop took a pre curved flat spring and bent it straight with a large press they used for changing the curve on leaf springs.

the choice of water or oil quench at least in part is to prevent a piece of work from cracking and that is a problem that have only had happen once when I tempered a home made drill bit with deep flutes already cut into it. Not surprisingly the drill cracked down through the flutes. When I am concerned about temperature shock, I have a second quench container with about 3/8 of an inch of oil floating on the surface. The oil takes the initial shock and the water underneath finishes the cooling without great clouds of smoke

cheers mooncoon
 
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