Flitz wax on newly hand oiled cooey stock

B

brockfisher05

New member
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
Surrey, BC
Been working on restoring a Cooey model 60. I just finished the last coat of hand rubbed oil and would like to finish the stock with a Flitz Wax.

What I was wondering is if anyone knows if I can do this after 24 hours since last oiling or if I should wait a couple days type thing.

Thanks!
__________
 
I have one question. Why are you in such a rush? I usually give 24 hours or more between coats of oil you can ruin a perfectly good job by rushing things its a old rifle it's not going anywhere take your time.
 
I am in no way rushing anything. The kit I have says 12 hours between the 2 and above coats. The kit only said 24 hours for the first one.

But thanks for your input?
 
I always regard drying times as the minimum time needed. I haven't ruined any job by going over the drying time but have screwed up by trying to do things before there dried so let the rifle sit for a couple of days. It won't hurt it and it give the last coat of oil time to dry properly.
 
Set the stock somewhere sunny but not hot as the uv cures the oil (linseed oil anyway). It'll darken the wood somewhat. If you apply hard wax over semi-cured oil you may get clouding.
 
The "kit" - you have some kind of finishing kit??

what kind of oil are you using? If it is a pure tung or linseed - several days to a week to be safe, depending on how you applied it. If you were impatient and applied a coat of oil before the first cured; you can seal an uncured coat of oil in - then it will take forever!

UV does accelerate curing in both tung and linseed but also darkens - linseed (yellows) more than tung as its a reaction in the acids (if I recall correctly) .

If it is a polymerized oil you will be good to go after the minimum drying time... depending on your conditions there... see wooblyheads comment on "minimum"
 
I had a Birchwood Casey wood stock refinishing kit laying around and used that. I was guessing about a week but figured iI' ask as theres many people on here that have been doing this longer than have.
 
brockfisher05 said:
I had a Birchwood Casey wood stock refinishing kit laying around and used that. I was guessing about a week but figured iI' ask as theres many people on here that have been doing this longer than have.
Click to expand...

tru-oil .... polymerized linseed oil with all kinds of extra crap in it.... you are good to go next day.
 
I find most Birchwood products dry super fast...
Still if you "have to" wax it...wait for at least a week.
But I'm still trying to figure out why you want to wax a freshly finished oiled stock at all????
Seriously, in all sincerity...why do you want to wax it?
 
HuskyDude said:
I find most Birchwood products dry super fast...
Still if you "have to" wax it...wait for at least a week.
But I'm still trying to figure out why you want to wax a freshly finished oiled stock at all????
Seriously, in all sincerity...why do you want to wax it?
Click to expand...

wax - depending on the was - provides an additional layer of moisture and UV protection. It's also easy to reapply and maintain.
 
sean69 said:
wax - depending on the was - provides an additional layer of moisture and UV protection. It's also easy to reapply and maintain.
Click to expand...

Okay but I would think maybe in about 3-4 months later, or even next season.
Maybe I'm trying to compare it to a freshly painted car...
I use Howards on my older stocks not on anything freshly done.

a3jmjBg.jpg
 
HuskyDude said:
Okay but I would think maybe in about 3-4 months later, or even next season.
Maybe I'm trying to compare it to a freshly painted car...
I use Howards on my older stocks not on anything freshly done.
Click to expand...

Yes, pretty much exactly :) If you hunt once a year, freshen the wax a week or so before you go out... if it's a daily shooter, more like every time you clean it.

Frankly I would recommend waxing the metal too (well probably not anything parkerized, phosphated or stainless) - especially if it sits around for a year or finds itself out in the rain often .. for exactly the same reasons you polish your car.
 
The kit came with a stock sheen/ liquid wax bottle as well but I really like using the Flitz wax on my wood stocks. It puts a nice protective layer on the older wood stocks I have on a couple rifles but I have only used it on non refinished ones so far. Its never hazed the finish on them or damaged it and on the bottle it does say "perfect for hand oiled stocks"

It's not that I WANT to wax it its just something I have done in the past to preserve woods stocks, thats all. If Everyone feels its unnecessary then its something I will reconsider doing after some more research along with making this post on here.
 
sean69 said:
Yes, pretty much exactly :) If you hunt once a year, freshen the wax a week or so before you go out... if it's a daily shooter, more like every time you clean it.

Frankly I would recommend waxing the metal too (well probably not anything parkerized, phosphated or stainless) - especially if it sits around for a year or finds itself out in the rain often .. for exactly the same reasons you polish your car.
Click to expand...

That's why we're here to talk learn and pass on info.

Not to highjack the thread but thought I throw these two into the works too...

How to Finish Steel with Linseed Oil

 
Is the Flitz wax ideal for a wood finish? I'd want to make sure it had no mineral oil in it or silicone. By far the best wax I've used on wood stocks has been Renaissance Wax. I think you'll find that a lot of knowledgeable gun owners use it.
 
South Pender said:
Is the Flitz wax ideal for a wood finish? I'd want to make sure it had no mineral oil in it or silicone. By far the best wax I've used on wood stocks has been Renaissance Wax. I think you'll find that a lot of knowledgeable gun owners use it.
Click to expand...

According to the bottle and on their website Flitz Wax is really good on hand oiled stocks. I have used it in the past on non refinished stock to clean and bring back some shine I just hadnt ever used it on a freshly hand oiled stock.

Remember theres Flitz Polish paste and Flitz Wax, two very different products.
 
Linseed oil is not "cured" by UV. The drying process is through oxidation, which is what creates the danger of spontaneous combustion in the used rags. The process is usually sped up with additives that catalyze the process... as in "boiled" linseed oil, which isn't actually boiled at all.
Recoating will tend to starve the previous coat of oxygen and slow or stop the process, although most linseed oil based coatings do "breathe" to some extent. I've cut into old red paint runs that were still soft under the eaves of old buildings 75 years after the building had been painted white.
UV light will however preVENT linseed oil from yellowing. This is why white buildings stayed white, but linseed oil white paint in a room with no windows usually turned yellow in time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom