Forming 375 Ruger Brass

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thepitchedlink

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So just got a new to me Ruger 375 and managed to find brass and dies. To my surprise when I looked at the brass, it's just generic, straight walled brass, no headstamp. The box is labeled, 375 Ruger Basic...I'm assuming this is the brass that the 375 and 416 ruger are formed from. I ran the first one throught the FL die and managed to collapse the shoulder. The second one worked better, but I went real slow. Is that the way you 375R shooters form yours? Just run it throught the die? Or is there another step that makes it more successful? thanks
 
thepitchedlink said:
So just got a new to me Ruger 375 and managed to find brass and dies. To my surprise when I looked at the brass, it's just generic, straight walled brass, no headstamp. The box is labeled, 375 Ruger Basic...I'm assuming this is the brass that the 375 and 416 ruger are formed from. I ran the first one throught the FL die and managed to collapse the shoulder. The second one worked better, but I went real slow. Is that the way you 375R shooters form yours? Just run it throught the die? Or is there another step that makes it more successful? thanks
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Huh.:confused:

My .375 Ruger brass came fully formed.

About the only advice I can give is too make sure there's lots of lube on the case and in the neck before FL sizing.
 
Nope, this is the first ruger brass I've seen. I ordered 375 ruger brass and this is what Corlanes sent me. When I phoned then and asked WTF they fella said I just had to run it through the FL die with lots of lube. No biggie, just wondering if anyone else out there has played with this and has any tips. The first neck buckled, second one worked OK, seems to be too long as well and I wonder if it's hitting the end of the die before the neck is fully formed. My second attempt I formed about half the neck and then trimmed a bit off, then finished the neck...seemed to work....just slower. I had no idea there was "basic" brass, so I never even asked about it.
 
I have always found that sizing wax makes for a lot fewer collapsed shoulders than any other lube...usually ends up with fewer lube dents as well.
 
Its easier on the brass to size down in steps, like maybe 416 first, then down to 375. With a possible annealing and trimming at 416. You are working the brass pretty hard to step down from full diameter to 375 in one step.
 
I am wondering if you are going to have to neck turn your brass after forming it to .375"...
Personally I would send the brass back to Corlanes with a harshly written letter....
You have all winter to come up with the proper brass.....:)
 
nrut said:
I am wondering if you are going to have to neck turn your brass after forming it to .375"...
Personally I would send the brass back to Corlanes with a harshly written letter....
You have all winter to come up with the proper brass.....:)
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No man, be nice. Tell them you were not familiar with neck sizing and were surprised that the necks were not preformed. Ask if they would consider an exchange. You get a lot further with honey than with harsh words.
 
The basic is for guys with 35 Newtons and such - non standard chambers - wildcatters that love screwing around reforming brass. I reform brass for my wildcat numbers but personally I wouldn't want to have to work the brass for a "standard chambered" 375 Ruger unless I had to. Your time and effort is worth something too I would think.

IMO you got the wrong brass and, as mentioned above, you should request a swap at Corlanes if they have the proper stuff.
 
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