FR8 Spanish Mauser ... Scout Rifle

ChromeArty

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Hey,

I just received my FR8 from a fellow here on CGN, turns out he did not divulge how rough this example is. Just some grainy cell phone pics and no mention of the chips and dings found everywhere on the stock. The metal could also use some love.

So... I would like to get her installed in a synthetic stock, apparently a K98 or large ring mauser stock is what I need. Does anyone know where to get these? also, I would have to glass bed it..? I have never done this before... but am confident :)

... And lastly, does anyone know where I can have the rifle maybe blasted with walnut husks and Parkerized in Vancouver?

Thanks for your help!
Trev
 
Could you post some pics?

FR8's are highly desirable rifles (I own an excellent example myself), and changing the stocks, and bead blasting/parkerizing it will affect its value... Unless it is already heavily sporterized??

The FR8 has awesome adjustable peep sights, 100, 200, 300, and 400 meters. It has a nice short length of pull, and a sweet NATO Flash hider which you can attach a grenade launcher to! ;) All of that packaged in a purpose built 7.62x51mm/.308 action! It even has a place to store the cleaning kit/extra candy in the fake gas system looking tube under the barrel.

To my knowledge, there are NO aftermarket stocks that will properly fit the FR8 rifle. The FR8 has a cut down and modified Spanish Mauser stock (Well actually an Modelo 43 stock), and the barrel is a little too short to want to even bother making a "sporter" stock for it (IMHO)...

Post some pics if you can, and maybe we can give you some pointers.

Cheers!
 
Thanks Desert Fox,

Yeah... I have done a bit of research on these rifles... hence getting one :) My firearms instructor buddy was the one who told me about them... he is a big hunter, ... took my CORE off him a week ago... He says this would be a good rifle to use for hunting if I decide to go down that route... especially if I ''Scout rifle it'' ... I am not into Bubba'ing things, but I have some nice old milsurps, and don't really mind modding this rifle to make it nice.

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Very nice!! That rifle is used, but definitely not abused shape! I would not touch it if I were you.

I used mine this year for pushing bush for deer here in alberta. I love my FR8!

You can't get much more "scout" than it is right now... I have seen Bubba-ed (Chopped stocks, re done metal, scoped) FR8's for sale, and they seldom see $300...

You should be able to get roughly $500 for your rifle easy. Don't touch it.

If you want a inexpensive rifle that is easy to scope, buy an older Savage Model 111 (with the steel mag bottom) and top it with a good quality bushnell/Nikon/Leupold etc, and it will be MUCH better for longer range hunting than the FR8... Keep the FR8 as your bush pushing rifle. It is small, handy, accurate, and has a wicked set of sights. Dial in the front sight with the preferred ammo you want to shoot it with, and you have a great close/mid range deer slayer on yer hands!

Copied from another forum regarding FR8 sights:

The sights are similar to the cetme rear sight. the v notch is 100m and the others are 200-400, you can figure it out with the higher holes being greater range. They are easy to zero. My advice is use the 200m peep at 25 meters to zero. This will get you zeroed for the other settings at the 100m increments. The 200m meter setting should hit the bullseye at 25 m and 200m (according to manuals and many people's accounts) I cant do too well with the v notch rear sight, i always use the peep sights. Also don't forget to loosen the set screw on the front of the triple frame! I made my own front sight adjustment tool with a dremel and old screwdriver with a broken off tip. Cetme front sight tools work for the FR-8 as well

The CETME/FR-8 rifle is adjusted for both windage, and elevation from the front sight post. It is also adjustable for bullet drop compensation at 100, 200, 300, and 400 meters from the rear sight paddle wheel, but we want to concentrate on the front sight post. The front sight post is housed inside of the triple front frame sight just under the top hood of the triple frame. On the front of the triple frame towards the muzzle brake will be a small set screw that locks the front sight post down. This needs to be loosened before trying to turn the front sight post. WARNING, if you do not loosen the set screw in front, you will most likely strip the threads on the front sight post. Now, to make adjustments to your windage, and elevation, you need to understand how the sight works. The front sight post is not dead center of its base, it is offset 0.6 mm. from dead center of the sight post base, and this is how the windage it set. Elevation is set by either raising the front sight post by unscrewing it counterclockwise, or by screwing the front sight post into the frame clockwise lowering the post. It is important to shoot for elevation first, and get the elevation correct before starting to mess with windage on this rifle. On top of the triple frame front sight is a hole. This hole allows you to insert a front sight adjustment key through it to adjust the front sight post. On two sides of the front sight post, you will see 2 holes on opposite sides of the front sight post base. These 2 holes are for the 2 spikes on the front sight tool to rest in, and allow the tool to turn the front sight post. Once you have elevation set, you can then concentrate on windage (left or right). Setting windage is done by offseting the front sight post left or right from dead center. It will offset your elevation up or down just slightly when setting windage, but not more than 1/2 inch up or down. The following picture should explain how windage is set with the front sight post




Cetme/FR-8 front site specifics

-elevation - for every 360 degree turn on the front sight post, it will move the point of impact 2.15 - 2.3 inches at 100 yards. For every 180 degrees turn, it will move the p.o.i. 1.075 - 1.15 at 100 yards

-windage - for a full swing left to right, or right to left (180 degrees from either 9 o' clock to 3 o' clock, or from 3 o' clock to 9 o' clock) it will move the round 7 inches at 100 yards. For a half swing (90 degrees from 12 o' clock to 9 o' clock - or from 12 o' clock to 3 o' clock - or from 6 o' clock to 9 o' clock - or from 6 o' clock to 3 o' clock) it will move the round 3.5 inches at 100 yards.

-always adjust elevation first! Once elevation is right, then adjust for windage. Note, if your sights are really far off, it can raise or lower your poi by as much as 1/2" at 100 yards.
-the thread size on the front sight post is
tpi 72.5
tpmm 2.85
1 rotation = .35mm-.375mm/.0138"-.0148"


Here's how this works First I counted the threads on the post, and measured the total length of threads with a nice set of calipers, then divided the length by the number of threads to get the distance per thread. Then used geometry, Tangent = Opposite/Adjacent (for a triangle)
we know that Adjacent is distance from rear sight to front sight, which is 23". Then we know Opposite is distance per thread.
So the Tangent is .0006 degrees. If we multiply that by 3600inches (100yards), we get the ANSWER!

There is an even simpler way to determine the length of one minute of angle (M.O.A.). I got this out of Crossman's Book of the Springfield, he did the math I just use the easy formula! Multiply the rifle's sight radius by .000291. This will give you the amount of sight adjustment in inches (on the rifle), to move the point of impact 1 moa at the target.

For example if the sight radius is 26" then (26) x (.000291)=.0075
That means every .0075" movement of the sights (front or rear) equals 1 minute of angle at the target.

If you need to make the point of impact go down, you would move the front sight post counterclockwise, or up.
if you need the groups point of impact to go up, move the front sight post clockwise, or down.
if you need the point of impact to move left, you would turn the post until it moves to the right of center.
if you need the point of impact to move right, you would turn the post until it moves to the left of center.
if center of your 3 shots is 3 1/4 inches high, and 2 inches right to the center of the bullseye at 100 meters, raise your front sight post 1 full 360 degrees turn, plus another 180 degrees turn - 540 degrees total - then once elevation is right, you have to adjust for windage. Your shots are 2 inches to the right - assuming that your post is at the 12 o clock position, move the post to the 1 o clock position. If your post is in the 6 o clock position, move it to the 5 o clock position.
 
Wow man! thank you so much for all the info!! You have truly been very helpful! I guess I will leave it alone and maybe look for a "sporter" in something else...?

thanks again!
Trev

You're welcome! Anytime we can save a Milsurp from Sporterizing, an Angel gets its wings! ;)

There are LOTS of Milsurp sporters out there already. If you don't want a new made Savage, TC, Tikka, Ruger etc, you can always look for a chopped K98 that has been drilled and tapped for scope bases, or has a Williams peep sight or something...

Honestly, The FR8 is almost the perfect epitome of a "Scout Rifle"... Adjustable peep sights, short and lightweight, can be charged with stripper clips... the only thing that would make it better would be a removable magazine, but hypothetically, you can just use the tip of a bullet to drop the floorplate and dump your rounds out of the mag.

I actually have a removable magazine that I bought from Trade Ex (CGN Sponsor) that fits all my K98's perfectly, and would fit the FR8 as well, but the FR8 is in .308, not 8mm, 7mm or 30-06, so it has a welded or soldered in block in the front of the magazine so that the .308 rounds align properly and strip properly out of the mag... So the removable mag option is not very feasible for the FR8 without modifications to both the rifle and the removable mag... perhaps if you were to get a K98 or Modelo 43 magazine and floorplate, you could modify just the removable magazine to work with your FR8??? Hmmm... I may look into this...

PS: If I remember correctly, the v notch is 100, turning the dial to the left once is 200, then turn the dial to the right back to the v notch (100), and then to the right again it is 300, then once more to the right again, and it should be 400.
 
Desert_Fox - thank you for the post on sight adjustment as I am sure I will be needing that very soon. I just picked up a 1957 FR8 myself, numbers match, stock if fairly decent shape except for 2 small deeper gouges, headspace is perfect. Loaded up 50 7.62x51 last night and hoping to get to the range this week to give a go. It is a sweet little rifle but its not talked about much here on CGN.
 
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