Free floating barrel on amosin Nagant.

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I was looking at a Mosin Nagant today and thinking why can't you just remove the barrel bands and the top hand guard and put a thin piece of cork under the barrel at the start. Would that be a free floating barrel and would that make it more accurate? But it would look a little funny.
 
I was looking at a Mosin Nagant today and thinking why can't you just remove the barrel bands and the top hand guard and put a thin piece of cork under the barrel at the start. Would that be a free floating barrel and would that make it more accurate? But it would look a little funny.

In my experience, this would work however some have noticed with the long barrel of the Mosin the accuracy can improved more by creating a single pressure point on the barrel to control the harmonics. I have installed a accuracy kit from Amazon on one of mine and it worked wonders even shooting various Milsurp ammo.

41BB740C-0181-4779-8043-EA00EBB422E1.jpg


86757549-59E0-4DDD-95BD-09ADB47794B8.jpg


C29C4FB4-02A5-4F18-A126-96E435EDE3E8.jpg
 
In my experience, this would work however some have noticed with the long barrel of the Mosin the accuracy can improved more by creating a single pressure point on the barrel to control the harmonics. I have installed a accuracy kit from Amazon on one of mine and it worked wonders even shooting various Milsurp ammo.

41BB740C-0181-4779-8043-EA00EBB422E1.jpg


86757549-59E0-4DDD-95BD-09ADB47794B8.jpg


C29C4FB4-02A5-4F18-A126-96E435EDE3E8.jpg

I installed a kit from Amazon too, I fit 1 metal shim in each location and cork under both spots under the barrel but I can't fit the cork above the barrel and fit the top hand guard on the front ring won't fit. I may have to sand the inside of the top hand guard to get it to fit or bend the front ring bigger
 
After reading reams of info on the net about improving the 91/30, I decided to try my hand at it, but with a twist. I tried the improvements systematically to see what worked and what didn't, rather that doing them all at once and hoping for the best. I took an 'off the rack' 1942 Izzy and decided to hot rod it using traditional techniques. In regards to shimming the barrel, what I found worked the best (at least for me and this rifle) was what was recommended in period Soviet manuals - full floating the barrel and creating a single pressure point between the stock and the hand guard. It took some experimentation to find the sweet spot, but when I did, it made a noticeable improvement.

What I did was;
- Float the barrel from the receiver to the tip of the stock using various grits of sandpaper wrapped around a socket and a dremel where necessary.
- Checked the clearance on both the stock and hand guard (a little tricky) with a piece of paper, final check with a piece of carbon paper over top of the paper (stock side down, to check for uniform wood removal).
- Sealed sanded parts with a coat of Tru Oil* (edit - forgot to add this the first time)
- Cut a piece of 3/4 by 12" twill tape (available from a fabric store), soaked it in oil and wrapped it tightly around the barrel for about 6" where the front spring clip is and re-assembled the rifle.
- Take some shots and let the barrel warm up. If the groupings are lousy, re-adjust the wrap and try again until you find the spot where the wrap
works best.

As an aside, after I did this, I picked up a beautiful '39 Tula from a local CDN Tire and was surprised to find this same modification ( as well as others outlined in the Soviet manual) done to the barrel.

Hope this helps!

Brookwood
 
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Some rifles like it some just don't. I have used wide rubber band material from pysiotherapy places some times hockey tape works, the trick is tight but not to tight. It may need adjustment and patience.
Be well
 
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