Free recoil or hard hold?

Depends how much the gun moves. If movement/torque is very little then go with free recoil everytime but it has to be setup very well to get good results. If you have to continually reset then it won't give good results. Your bolt also has to close easy or it will move the gun too much in the bags and again will give poor results in my experience.
 
I go somewhere in between, being right handed I have a firm hold with left hand to aim and light hold with trigger hand.

Works for me.

JJ
 
Much depends upon the type of shooting you are doing, the rifle and the trigger. My 6mm for example off a Rempel bipod is at the max allowable for F-Open and the trigger is very light so I shoot that free recoil. A .308 factory Remington varmint rifle off of a Harris bipod with a factory trigger may well be better shot with a hard hold. Essentially, your target will tell you but whatever you decide to do be consistent.
 
Could we define "hold"?

I assume we're talking prone or bench?

I need to work on my hold and try to find things that work but cant find any rhyme or rhythm.

Currently I mostly shoot prone, left arm (right handed) squeezing rear bag, bi-pod, and right arm/hand using light to moderate grip pressure. My butstock is lengthened so when I look through my scope I'm pushing my headlight slightly forward which tightens the stock and shoulder mount slightly.

I'm 6'4" so my stock is pretty damn long. I went and added weight to it and rather then allowing for the adjuster I simply left it at full length. Not sure if this is wrong or not, but I find good, solid info on the "right way" hard to find.

I've also tried keeping the bi-pod push loaded, neutral, and pulled loaded. Can't find one or the other that works much better. I keep the legs on a level board to help create a smooth plane to move back on once fired.
 
Shibby:

If you have to move your head either direction after you get into position then you need to either adjust the length of pull or move your scope, whichever is going to be more comfortable. Your eye relief needs be right on when you shoulder the rifle if you want any consistency in your shooting. Obviously if your switching prone to bench your still going to encounter this problem a bit, but try to find a happy medium.

The "right way" is what's comfortable and consistent for you. Look to the experts for tips and guidelines, but at the end of the day your the one shooting the rifle.

The bipod does not have to be pushed or pulled (id like to know how you do that btw), all you need is the slight forward pressure you naturally put into the stock when you get into position. There's a few excellent youtube videos demonstrating this. (btw I'm assuming your referring to a harris/atlas style bipod. I don't have experience with the f-class stuff).
 
savage.3006 said:
What do you guys think as far as Free recoil VS hard hold when long range/ Precision shooting?
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I have tried all of these techniques, and at my level of shooting ability and equipment I have not been able to tell any difference in the results (either as better or worse group sizes, or shifts in POI caused by how the rifle is held). I do know that shooters beyond my level of shooting ability (e.g. topnotch F-Class shooters, or BR shooters) take this quite seriously and believe that they see some effects.

So, to the level of shooting 10" groups at 1000y or 1/2" groups at 100y, my data point is that it does not matter, and my advice to you is to choose whichever you prefer or you find works best for you.

If you are seeking to shoot 5" groups at 1000y or .250" groups at 100y, I know enough to say that I don't really know for sure and therefore I can't advise you. It might matter -- you'll have to ask someone who has experience at that.
 
Dustin said:
I think this tends to be a matter of personal preference. That said, whatever you choose to do, do it the same way every time!
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This is the key to accuracy. Consistently from shot to shot.

With a rifle and ammo, we try and minimize all the mechanical variables, squaring everything, bedding, free floating the barrel, reload the rounds identically, so every shot is just like the last. Same applies to a hold, it has to be identical every time.

Holding a rifle with force is more difficult to maintain shot to shot consistently. Not to say a grip has to be loose, but enough of a natural grip that it can be duplicated every time. Body position and state of relaxation should also be the same, same with breathing. No one single little factor makes or breaks accuracy, it is a sum of every little part.

This is from my experience coaching and being coached in multi position shooting over about 4 years (including a team seminar by Linda and Keith from Milcun), but the principles are universal.
 
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I find that a hard hold is best only if the rear bag is positioned to the rear of your cheek pressure point. Otherwise the rear bag becomes the point of fulcrum and your cheek pressure will tend to lift the fore end and cause verticals.

Depending on your stock design this may be more or less difficult to do.

If you have a stock with an off hand notch you must resist the temptation to put the bag foreward of that notch if you like to cheek it.

If you have a stock that is nice and straight on the bottom you will have less of a struggle with developing good technique and rear bag position.
 
Shibby! said:
1. 308win This is a light kicking gun if the gun is heavy enough
2. Harris bi-pod and "bean" bag You'll want to hold on to this set up. With a Harris I usually put a forward leaning charge weight against the bi-pod. So my answer would be steady hold not hard hold.
3. Prone, outdoor range 100-1200
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my 2 cents
 
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