Garand reloading component value?

cueball

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Hi guys, i am considering selling off some reloading/shooting components for a garand. specifically,
8 original bandoliers(not repros)
48 en blocs
approx 390 1F LC69 brass
an original ammo can

Can anyone give a ballpark for a price for the lot?
Thanks
cueball
 
LC 69 .30-'06 Ammo

Cueball

I got several bandoliers of LC 69 ammo with a Garand I bought. It won't reliably operate the action of either two Garands I own.

In an article by Mike Venturino, LC 69 ammo produced the worst accuracy results. It's best used by salvaging the brass and bullets for reloading.

Todd
 
$10/50 pieces for the brass
$.75 a piece for the enblocs
$10 to $15 for the ammo can
$10 a piece for the bandoliers if they look new.
 
garand

Hi guys, thanks for the info. i now have an idea how much to charge. Sharps '63, the LC works great in my m1's. apparently there were 2 different LC 69 batches out there, one batch for M1's, the other was machine gun ammo(apparently the least accurate of the two). the stuff i have shoots about 3-4" groups(8shots) @ 100.
thanks again
cueball
 
The brass is decent, I once had a pail full of it. I used alot of it to make 7.7 jap and .35 Whelen brass. Still have some kicking around for .30-06 shooting. Wish I had more! But it was never expensive brass. The primers are really hard-crimped and there's alot of work involved in swaging the pockets and trimming and uniforming this brass as most of it has been fired in semi-aotos and machine-guns. Full-length sizing is a MUST too before you re-use it.

I wouldn't pay more than about $5 per 50 in Canada. In the US, guys are paying $20 per 500 or 1000 depending on the seller.
 
garand

All of the brass is once fired from my garands, no machine gun here:mad: none of my garands will even come close to closing on a no-go and were all inspected by KK. I have swaged about 1k now with an RCBS swager(nowhere as good as a dillon) and found it no more difficult than any other crimps to remove, but as always ymmv.:D i have used this brass to test the claoms of an RCBS x-die and results were phenomonal. i made up a batch of 100 rounds and after every firing i would pull a couple cases and cut them lengthwise to check for as case stretching. after 6 firings you still couldn't tell tehm apart from any of the preious firings, wow. i ended up firing them 8 times and still had no failures or cases with any noticable stretching, but confirmed that the die does what it says. i don't think commercial would have stood up to that, but who knows. Brass is reasonably consistent too, with pulled down bullets i have no problem getting 3" 8 shot groups @100 IF i do my part.
cueball
 
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Hi cueball,

I don't doubt that you treat your brass well, but a prospective buyer who doesn't know you from Adam isn't going to pay a premium to you for dirt-common LC69 brass that is selling cheap everywhere else.

If you think I am wrong, put it in the CGN EE and find out for yourself :)

Also, I don't mean to say the LC brass swages harder than any other milspec brass. I only intended to say that it being milsurp brass means it has to be swaged. Some reloaders just want to buy commercial grade brass and start reloading. It's an extra step that isn;t required for most brass, so some pple find milsurp brass less desireable for that reason.

FWIW, I use alot of LC brass for reloading, but I know others that won't touch the stuff :)
 
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