German Mauser k98k sighting?

dgradinaru

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Hi all, well I have a German mauser k98k that I have been trying to sight in and I need some help at it.

Its a 1939 243 code vet bring back sporter restored.

It shoots perfectly straight on target, but about 1 foot high @ 100yards.

Target is about a fist size and I was aiming at 6 o clock.

With a 150 gr bullet ive shot approx. 1inch @ 100yards and im very happy with the accuracy. - but how would get it to shoot lower?

Ive tried a 200gr bullet thinking it was going to shoot lower but I shot a few inches higher.

Loads are just average European spec power.

Any Help?
 
Hi all, well I have a German mauser k98k that I have been trying to sight in and I need some help at it.

Its a 1939 243 code vet bring back sporter restored.

It shoots perfectly straight on target, but about 1 foot high @ 100yards.

Target is about a fist size and I was aiming at 6 o clock.

With a 150 gr bullet ive shot approx. 1inch @ 100yards and im very happy with the accuracy. - but how would get it to shoot lower?

Ive tried a 200gr bullet thinking it was going to shoot lower but I shot a few inches higher.

Loads are just average European spec power.

Any Help?

You need a taller front sight. This will push the muzzle, and correspondingly, the group downwards. If you can tell me the exact distance between the face front and rear sight blades as well as the exact (as close as possible) distance the POI is from the POA i can tell you how much taller the sight needs to be.
 
Sight radius in inches x amount of error (in your case 12") divided by distance 100m =3900". The 98K has 20" sight radius, so 20x12 divided by 3900 = .061"

So you'd have to add, or find a sight that's .061" taller than what you have.
 
is the barrel free floating? or does the stock have a pressure point at the front? adding or subtracting will also change the impact point.
 
98ks shot a 198 spitzer so you may wish to try this and see if she shoots on target. The battle sights are also in metres so keep this in mind if shooting at a range where yards are used as the measurement.
 
what is ur post size?most of mine Measure .2550" Hit bang on when using tip of highest point on post at 100m

Using 198GR FMJBT and 220GR FMJBT
 
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I guess I will buy a front post sight from Brownells. Hopefully it will work out. Its a bit disappointing as the front post matches the numbers of the rifle.
Just be careful removing the original post and keep it safe. You can buy a nice sight pusher made for the K98k on ebay for like 20-30 bucks. Makes adjusting the windage or removing sights easy with little risk of damage.
 
Wanna do it on the cheap?

Take a pair of side-cutters, chop about 3/16 of an inch off a wire coathanger.

Solder this to the top of the front-sight blade already on the rifle.

Use a dab of cold-blue to blacken it down.

Head for the range.

Should be in the ball-park anyway.

Kar98k was factory-sighted to shoot slightly high at 218 yards with a 196-grain FMJBT bullet.
 
To save yourself some trouble, why not just lower your point of aim ? Instead of aiming for the bulleyes ring, you may wish to aim for the 6 oclock position and see where she shoots exactly.
 
Vee aim at za belt buckle und schiessen

SOMEONE WHO UNDERSTANDS

Why is it that people today do not understand the PURPOSE of military rifle sights and the distances to zero them? A military rifle was designed for a special type of VERTICAL target----enemy soldiers. With the advent of the spitzer bullet and thus flatter bullet trajectories, the usual distance to zero a rifle was at 200 or 300 yards (or meters--take your pick, deepending upon which army you are in.)

The idea was to take out your opponents --kill or wound them so that they were no longer effective on the battlefield ---not see how good of a group you could get on them. And, with the mass attacks of a Century or more ago, there was usually no time to adjust sights under the zero sight distance ---you were too busy trying to keep ammo in the rifle and stay alive. In most cases, the shooting was to the center of mass of a human body --- not precision shooting to hit him in the third button down on his overcoat.

Soldiers were taught to adjust their sights when the Enemy was farther than the zero distance, but when that Enemy closed to under the zero distance, the Soldier was trained to aim at the belt buckle so that their bullet would hit above that point of aim ---the stomach and chest area ---which is the largest mass of the body. In fact, some Armies, (like the Japanese,) were trained to shoot a bit low when the Enemy was in trenches or on the ground as the bullet would ricochet into the enemy soldier if the aim was off a bit.

Therefore, if someone wants to zero a rifle today at 100 yards or meters, then the original sights really do not allow for that. The simplest way if you want to keep the resale value of the rifle is to replace the front sight with an aftermarket taller one, or modify a surplus sight by adding height to it, while saving the original front sight blade for the future. However, when you do this, the sight markings on the sight leaf for longer ranges are no longer accurate so you will find yourself shooting way low at the longer targets.

An alternative method is to put a second target about 12 inches below your impact target, and use the bottom one as an aiming point. Back in the 1800s when target shooting was an Art, this aiming point target was known as a "Bud" and was an accepted practice amongst shooters. It does not have to be another target, just a well defined aiming point.

.
 
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The reason I want it zero at 100 yards is that I'm planning to hunt with the rifle. I have had many other 98's in the past that shot on target @100 yards and the ladder still worked pretty decent even to 400 yards.
 
Strip some 14guage wire, a length of it about the same as the length of the front blade. Split the empty insulation in half. Epoxy it (flat side down) to the top of the blade. Should get you pretty close.

To remove: Hair dryer or heat gun and peal it off.

You can stick with the black insulation to make the mod less noticeable, or use the insulation from a red wire for a bubba hi-viz.
 
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