Getting a K98 ready for the Range

Wallenstein

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Hi, looking for some advice from K98 Owners.

I bought a 1939 Sauer made K98, RC, most parts matching.

The previous owner said he test fired it, but I have not yet taken it to the Range.

What would be good preparation steps to ensure it is safe to fire ?
 
For all old warhorse rifles, first and foremost, when in doubt take it to a qualified gunsmith to examine the chamber and bore, headspace, trigger/sear engagement, firing pin protrusion, locking lugs condition and engagement, and so on.

At home, you can check the fitment of the barreled action to the stock....any wiggle or slop, horizontal or vertical movement of the metal within the wood, or is everything snug? You can also remove the barreled action from the stock and inspect the stock inletting for damage, cracks, splits, and so on. Inspect the exterior of the barrel and receiver for significant pitting or damage, cracks, etc.
 
When checking the stock, inspect the area behind the recoil lug. I've had two crack on me, and set-back in that area is common. If not addressed, the tang will eventually split the stock behind it.
 
K98k. The K98 was a Polish rifle not made by Sauer.

Clean the bore, check screw tightness, as mentioned check stock and bedding condition, obsessive headspace gauging before firing with a matching bolt is a waste of time. If you notice issues on fired cases it might be worth while. Firing pin protrusion can be checked at home with a caliper. Trigger safety can be roughly checked by cocking the rifle and bouncing it on a mat or giving the cocking piece a light smack with a soft mallet but it’s unlikely to be an issue. You would notice an unsafely light trigger during dry fire. Don’t be afraid to dry fire a RC Mauser for practice.
 
OP, all of the above, if you're a "newbie"

Also, if you don't have the proper tools, such as sharp, snug fitting slot blade screwdrivers, don't start taking anything apart.

Yes, it's an "RC," but it's also from a desirable manufacturer.

Depending on its condition, it may have significant value.

If your tools are not sized properly, they will "gall" the screws, or worse, slip off while loosening or tightening and gouge the stock.

All of these blemishes detract from the rifle's visual condition, and proportionately lower value.

Cracks can be an issue, and should be addressed. Shooting them in such conditions worsens the bedding issues.

If the bedding is already damaged, there are fixes, but they require some skill sets to fix properly, in a manner that doesn't devalue your investment.

North American made 8x57js Mauser ammunition is loaded to much lower pressures than European made ammunition, which is usually marked 7.92x57j, or 7.92x57js or with just an "s" suffix.

7.92x57J (Commission 1888) .319″ Ammunition – …

7.92x57JS ammunition has .323 diameter bullets.

To my knowledge, most North American manufacturers build all of their ammunition using .323 diameter bullets and load them down, so they are safe to shoot from both bores.

Your rifle was made for the high pressure, large diameter rounds.

In Europe, the shooter is expected to know the difference between the two designations. In North America, the manufacturer gets sued.

You need to be careful with the gunsmith you take the rifle to. Many of them are very good at what they do, but don't have experience with milsurps.

One thing you can do is to take apart the bolt and make sure it isn't packed with grease. If it is, get it out, clean up the residue, and add a bit of light oil.

It's usually a good idea to fully strip down milsurps if you intend to shoot them. Grease and oil will harden over the years and eventually cause grief.

Stocks will dry out and should be "seasoned" with linseed oil, which should be allowed to dry for a week or so, before reassembly. At least two coats, sometimes four or even five, depending on dryness.

These rifles are 80+ years old, and you don't know how they were stored after refurbishment by the Soviets.

Do yourself a big favor, detail strip the rifle to its components, clean them, inspect them under good light.

One thing to look at closely are the locking lugs on the bolt and inspect the bases for small cracks. Also check the locking lug recesses in the receiver. They seldom have issues, but the biggest worry, IMHO, is "set back."

You can check for "recess lug setback" by using a stiff piece of wire, such as a paper clip, bent to a 90 degree angle, to "feel" inside for irregularities on the surface engaged by the rear of the bolt recoil lugs.

Most people just take them out and shoot them, after looking down the bores to make sure nothing is stuck. They get away with it because these rifles were so well designed and built from the best materials available at the time.

You're prudent and careful enough to inquire about what issues there may be.

I've given you the most important issues, and the other folks filled you in on others.

Now it's up to you.
 
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