Glass bedding problem

I haven't done my pillar mounting and bedding job yet. I've researched the products to death and have seen a wide variety of suggestions. I've decided that although I purchased some Acragel, I'm going to use Devcon 10110 as both my pillar anchor and as the bedding compound because it apparently is the most solid, has absolutely no flexibility. For release agent - Kiwi clear shoe polish. I'm also building a simple barrel/action releasing U-clamp just in case.

One additional thing that I plan on doing and would like to run past the experts is this. The actions typically are bedded just forward of the recoil lug about an 1" to 2". The barrel, although free floated should be bedded to at least the point of center of gravity (balance) with the bolt in the action. On a heavy 24" barrel, that puts the point of balance about 6" forward of the recoil lug. This just happens to be right smack in the center of one of the stock vent slots. After building my action bed and it is cured, I plan on making a dam to bed the barrel at that 6" mark and free float forward of that. Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
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I don't mean to steal the thread but can you use JB weld as a bedding compound ? as a can of devcon cost 50.00 and I would not need too much of it and the JB is 7.00 for the two tubes
 
TAC said:
I don't mean to steal the thread but can you use JB weld as a bedding compound ? as a can of devcon cost 50.00 and I would not need too much of it and the JB is 7.00 for the two tubes
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yes you can but ensure that there is adaquote release agent and no chances of mechanical lock. also make sure that the sruface is roughed up good and degreased better.
this is just my opinion your milage may vary
 
For the Savage factory stock, just bed the recoil lug and back. The forend is hollow and building up material just adds a lot of weight for no real benefit. A 24" heavy barrel is easily handled by this action and the action screws.

If you feel motivated, you can bed the recoil lug area in a few steps and build up in front of the lug. I have built it up enough to even support under the barrel nut but that didn't improve things any when compared to just supporting that lug.

When you start putting on 28" or longer no taper barrels, then you need to start moving the bedding ahead of the lug.

For a wood stock where there is some material under the barrel, I have bedded the first 1 to 2" of barrel. No better, no worse for common taper barrels 26" and shorter. Must do for super heavy and long pipes.

gth, never worry about what products you find to work. Most every fluid used in the gun industry is repackaged or remixed stuff from a major industry.

Some of our gun cleaners are merely rebottled industrial/automotive solvents with some additives.

So with so much new stuff coming out everywhere else, doesn't surprise me that a better product can be found, even if it is not a gun industry recognized/packaged product.

Adhesives and finishes are likely the biggest areas for this.

If it is good, someone will likely put it in a shooting industry specific container and charge several times what it is worth.

Jerry
 
I'm using the Devcon 10210, for the bedding, tho' I'm going to pick-up a tub of the 10110 for when I need the no-sag performance.

For the release agent, I've used PVA; but I found I sometimes had a build-up that was quite thick in spots, I've used PAM and automotive grease and they worked well enough; but then I took the advice of Ian Robertson. I don't know anyone that needs mould release as much as that guy.

He recommended Synlube 531, and I'll never go back. It's super fast to apply, and even after a couple of coats ('cause I'm a chicken) the detail in the bedding comound has to be seen to be believed. The smallest tool marks and scratches are faithfully reproduced. Detail just not possible with PAM or PVA. Now I've no doubt that floorwax and shoe polish users can get as thin and hard a coat as the 531, and they do save some money, the Synlube is about 16 bux for a spraycan; but seriously, even if it cost me $1 extra to do the bedding job, it's worth it to me.
 
guntech said:
AeroWax - but I think any floor/furniture paste wax will work fine...
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I have used turtle wax also with good results. Apply, Buff, Apply, Buff, Apply, Buff, Apply, Buff, then just apply. I probably over doing it but I really didnt want the action glued into the stock.:D Worked fine.
 
gitrdun said:
I haven't done my pillar mounting and bedding job yet. I've researched the products to death and have seen a wide variety of suggestions. I've decided that although I purchased some Acragel, I'm going to use Devcon 10110 as both my pillar anchor and as the bedding compound because it apparently is the most solid, has absolutely no flexibility. For release agent - Kiwi clear shoe polish. I'm also building a simple barrel/action releasing U-clamp just in case.

One additional thing that I plan on doing and would like to run past the experts is this. The actions typically are bedded just forward of the recoil lug about an 1" to 2". The barrel, although free floated should be bedded to at least the point of center of gravity (balance) with the bolt in the action. On a heavy 24" barrel, that puts the point of balance about 6" forward of the recoil lug. This just happens to be right smack in the center of one of the stock vent slots. After building my action bed and it is cured, I plan on making a dam to bed the barrel at that 6" mark and free float forward of that. Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Do not induce any stress by clamping your barreled action into the stock... just let it lay there with no pressure after pushing it in by hand.. support the barrel in the wood with layers of tape to center it and hold it up first.

Where did the idea of bedding the barrel in the manner described come from? I would suggest free floating the entire barrel or at the most bedding an inch. The more of the taper you bed, the more point of impact/accuracy may change as the barrel temerature changes.
 
When I bed a rifle I clamp the barrel ( with blocs) in a vise and install the stock from under the action , that way there is no stress on the bedding compound in the stock. The barrel carries the weight on the stock instead of the other way around
Bob
 
Hi, I've attached a link to the glass bedding procedure that mentions bedding to the point of balance. It does mention that if it is further out then 2 1/2" a barrel bedding block should be used. I'm just now waiting for the pillar bedding to cure. I'll be bedding the receiver after complete. For the final receiver bedding, I clamp the barreled action upside down and place the stock on top. I have put several wraps on electrical tape around the barrel at the foreend to give the the desired float clearance and achieve a stress free full seating of the receiver atop both pillars. To put some load on the stock I tape it down (with tape reversed so sticky side faces outward) around stock and barrel. Just like mentioned earlier it puts the weight of the stock on the bedding compound. I may have found some stuff that will work well with tupperware stocks (as we know them to be difficult to glue to). I have my spare stock to play, I'll drill the normal anchoring holes which is a must with synthetics and try Scotch Weld 2216 2 part epoxy by 3M. It has a really nice flowing consistency that gets into a the little nooks and cranies, I think it would have been a good pillar bond.

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/bedding.html
 
I wouldn't worry about your 6" bedding block, especially on a heavier barrel, it is stiff enough. I agree with GUNTECH, go for an inch in front of the recoil lug at most, if you really want to. Just make sure you put a couple of thou worth of electrical tape on the front and bottom of your recoil lug. This allows you to easily remove your action and barrel from the stock, and keeps mechanical stress off the action. just don't put the tape on the sides or back, that is where it is nice to have contact. The sides especially on round bottom actions.
I am still a fan of grey, marine-tex.:D
 
Just keep an eye on the action screw holes in the stock.

Some will use inletting screws in the action to align the action and the screw holes, keep the holes plugged in the action and the stock holes pretty well cleared.

If you just put the action and stock together without any alignment pins or use the action screws, you run a real risk of having the holes not align after. That is a royal pain.

Jerry
 
Can anyone recomend a gunsmith to do a savage le2b with the mcmillan stock?

I can't get anything to group under an inch with this gun, and it looks like the fit is quite excessive. I would do it myself but I have no luck with glue/epoxy or anything like that. It gets everywhere somehow lol.
 
Not saying I agree with Guntech, but he recently bedded a M700 SPS 25-06 for me in a Ti stock. Bedded the action and floated the barrel.

So far 9 3-shot groups with 75 grain bullets have averyaged 0.55" with 3 groups under 0.4". I think he may be onto something! :D
 
I would definitely agree with what Guntech says, and mysticplayer as well. I have followed their guidance, none has led me down the wrong path. My 22-250 shoots under 3/8" with factory stuff. My daughter's 7-08 in the "ugly" Stevens 200 tupperware stock shoots 5/8" with Federal Fusion factory. Can't argue with those results. I'm not a gunsmith nor do I pretend to be, but I have 2 other rifles in waiting, and all I ever wanted to do was make "my" rifles shoot tight.

I did a bit of "my own" design thingy as far as bedding the recoil lug. I'll post some pics when I get time. Anyways, you follow Guntech's or Mysticplayer's recommendations...you won't go wrong.
 
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