just got my hands on a sako l61r finbear with full stock and the clown that had it before stained the rifle without removing the stain on the inside so the stain never cured and is still sticky... the tip part of the stock had a piece of cotton to avoid rattling im thinking of glass bedding the stock is it possible ?
Glass bedding
- Thread starter 300dakota
- Start date
If it's sticky, it's not likely stain. Stain just soaks in and dries. Even if the guy slathered it on thick.
I'd guess(almost bet) the guy put some raw linseed oil (vs the boiled kind) on too thickly. It tends not to dry well, if at all. Epoxy bedding compounds will not stick to it.
A rag soaked in turpentine(Wear rubber/latex gloves. Keeps the stink off your hands.) and applied to the stock until the linseed oil starts to dissolve, then left for 20 minutes or so, then rinse with warm soapy water should remove most of it. Repeat as required.
Sadly, you're only other option to remove it is sanding. I'd scrape as much off as possible with a hard plastic scraper first.
Once the stock is clean of the goop, you'll want to seal the inside of the barrel channel. It does not get bedding material past the chamber area. Any wood sealer will do. It's just to keep moisture out so the barrel doesn't get pushed around in different outside moisture levels by the stock warping.
Lose the cotton too. Sounds like the twit tried to float the barrel without knowing how. Floating a barrel may or may not improve accuracy anyway, but fixing that part isn't a big deal. Worry about it after the stock is cleaned. Putting a pressure point in isn't a big deal either. That's just a bit of bedding compound put about an inch or so aft of the end of the forestock with release agent on the barrel.
You'll want this too. http://www.sako.fi/pdf/manuals/Finnbear.pdf
I'd guess(almost bet) the guy put some raw linseed oil (vs the boiled kind) on too thickly. It tends not to dry well, if at all. Epoxy bedding compounds will not stick to it.
A rag soaked in turpentine(Wear rubber/latex gloves. Keeps the stink off your hands.) and applied to the stock until the linseed oil starts to dissolve, then left for 20 minutes or so, then rinse with warm soapy water should remove most of it. Repeat as required.
Sadly, you're only other option to remove it is sanding. I'd scrape as much off as possible with a hard plastic scraper first.
Once the stock is clean of the goop, you'll want to seal the inside of the barrel channel. It does not get bedding material past the chamber area. Any wood sealer will do. It's just to keep moisture out so the barrel doesn't get pushed around in different outside moisture levels by the stock warping.
Lose the cotton too. Sounds like the twit tried to float the barrel without knowing how. Floating a barrel may or may not improve accuracy anyway, but fixing that part isn't a big deal. Worry about it after the stock is cleaned. Putting a pressure point in isn't a big deal either. That's just a bit of bedding compound put about an inch or so aft of the end of the forestock with release agent on the barrel.
You'll want this too. http://www.sako.fi/pdf/manuals/Finnbear.pdf
Thank you I'll take that route ... Just to be clear turpentine and not varsol?
WHOA!!!! WHOA!! Before you start -- recognize that if this is a Sako FACTORY full stock it is in TWO pieces and the joint between the tip and stock is hidden by the forward stock band. That rattling might be nothing more than a loose screw (or two)!! that secures the connector between the parts at both ends. As you have probably deduced the foresight has to be removed to get that band off and to remove the stock...make sure you have the proper fitting screw drivers and a drift (nylon preferably) to remove the foresight or you will surely bugger it up! I would also place a VERY small witness mark to get the foresight back in the same place later.
ALSO regard the action screws and their spacers - when this stock (correction: action) is properly brought back to the recoil crossbolt and the action screws are correctly torqued .. you may not need any bedding --personally I wont buy rifles bedded by a third party because I have seen too many BS jobs where probably a little rubber wafer or two under the action and barrel would suffice
ALSO regard the action screws and their spacers - when this stock (correction: action) is properly brought back to the recoil crossbolt and the action screws are correctly torqued .. you may not need any bedding --personally I wont buy rifles bedded by a third party because I have seen too many BS jobs where probably a little rubber wafer or two under the action and barrel would suffice
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Varsol and acetone/lacquer thinner are different solvents and will not dissolve the same stuff. Lacquer thinner etc. are organic solvents and varsol is not and don't do the same thing. Acetone is one of the safest solvents while lacquer thinner has toluene etc added and is a bit nastier and varsol is not real user friendly either. Use gloves and good ventilation with all of these. Price is irrelevant. Mind you do as I say and not as I do!!
