glass for shooting 1,000 yards at paper and steel
- Thread starter quaticman
- Start date
Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
24+ power is nice. I would recommend a calibrated SFP reticle over any FFP reticle. Objective size is irrelevant, and is not a useful thing to sort by.
Vortex Razor HD gen II. Excellent glass, overbuilt, unbeatable warranty, and pricey just like every other scope in this category. Can get by with a lesser optic, but the glass quality starts to become evident in less than ideal atmospherics at those ranges.
2-2.5 X per 100 yards is sensible minimum. Target size and type have as much influence as magnification, if you can see it you can hit it. Likewise, optical quality goes a long ways to substituting for magnification.On a similar vein, tracking and repeatability are close to the only things that matter for landing hits. Still, not seeing the hits on steel though the scope would take much of the fun out of shooting steel, so most of my longrange scopes top out around 20-25. Seems to work. Lots of Mark 4s in the fleet.
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
Nightforce NXS 5.5-22x, Leupold 6.5-20 LR/T...either would be good.
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
Quality glass, that is your main need like others have said.
As for magnification, as much as you can handle.A high power variable has lower magnification than the dial all the way to the max, lots of people forget that.Why handicap yourself when you might need more.6-24 , 8-32, 10-50 , not very often you are going to be using the minimums.I find myself between 20-40 with a 10-50 depending on conditions.
Make sure the scope has a good focus adjustment for your desired range.
A good focus and good glass is your keys to clarity.Objective size is relative to light gathering and does have some bearing in regards to exit pupil and magnification BUT , you are almost never shooting targets at dawn or dusk and this is where the big objective can be a benefit(again, glass quality being most important).
Also, you want to look at reticles, one that gives you enough marks for measuring and references but not thick and heavy to obscure your target.
In conclusion, I would get 8-32 or 10-50 , objective doesn't matter, 30mm tube for maximum adjustment and a scope that has quality focus adjustment.
You WILL get more fussy as you use it.
As for magnification, as much as you can handle.A high power variable has lower magnification than the dial all the way to the max, lots of people forget that.Why handicap yourself when you might need more.6-24 , 8-32, 10-50 , not very often you are going to be using the minimums.I find myself between 20-40 with a 10-50 depending on conditions.
Make sure the scope has a good focus adjustment for your desired range.
A good focus and good glass is your keys to clarity.Objective size is relative to light gathering and does have some bearing in regards to exit pupil and magnification BUT , you are almost never shooting targets at dawn or dusk and this is where the big objective can be a benefit(again, glass quality being most important).
Also, you want to look at reticles, one that gives you enough marks for measuring and references but not thick and heavy to obscure your target.
In conclusion, I would get 8-32 or 10-50 , objective doesn't matter, 30mm tube for maximum adjustment and a scope that has quality focus adjustment.
You WILL get more fussy as you use it.
