Glock trigger woes ....

Teac

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
50   0   0
Hi All,

I have an issue with my new glock shooting left .... some history:

I have a Glock 17 Gen 1 or 2 (dont know) and used it for bullseye style shooting (over 15000 rounds) with as much success as a glock can have ....

I just upgraded to a G17 Gen 4 and it shoots terribly to the left... I just dry fired it and notice I always jerk the gun when pulling the trigger. its very obvious during dry fire and likely the cause for the issue ///

Now the weird thing is: This does not happen at all with my Gen1!! They have the same backstrap style. The Gen 4 has a 3.4 lbs connector otherwise is stock. the Gen 1 is totally stock.

I am a bit dissapointed that the newer gun shoots worse .. I can spend more time practicing but since it works with the Gen 1 I wonder if it is the gun? is it me?

Should I install a trigger stop? Cant buy them in Canada and have to self make it and rather not as it reduces reliability ... I dont want to go to a full match trigger for $200-300.


What else should I be looking at? (I want to keep the glocks, different brand gun is not an option)


cheers

Matt
 
Chances are it's you, but lonewolf ultimate adjustable trigger is affordable, uses a polished oem trigger bar, but has a much improved trigger shoe and safety. No need to adjust for reset or overtravel … but you can.
 
My concern is that it works great with the Gen 1 but when the Gen 4 trigger breaks the whole gun jerks ...
 
I never had hands on with anything earlier than gen 3, is there really a difference in trigger reach, or in the break? You could smooth it out by changing the connector and trigger spring, and not necessarily by going lighter. I like an oem 4.5 minus connector and new york 1 trigger spring.
My concern is that it works great with the Gen 1 but when the Gen 4 trigger breaks the whole gun jerks ...
 
I think the triggers are essentially the same but my Gen1 might be well worn and smooth from it or just by chance better.

Do you know where in Canada I can buy the lone wolf trigger? On the website it is not clear how it works. The pictures show just trigger and the part attached to it but the instructions show a block with set screws ... So I am not sure what it actually allows to adjust




I never had hands on with anything earlier than gen 3, is there really a difference in trigger reach, or in the break? You could smooth it out by changing the connector and trigger spring, and not necessarily by going lighter. I like an oem 4.5 minus connector and new york 1 trigger spring.
 
Hi All,

I have an issue with my new glock shooting left .... some history:

I have a Glock 17 Gen 1 or 2 (dont know) and used it for bullseye style shooting (over 15000 rounds) with as much success as a glock can have ....

I just upgraded to a G17 Gen 4 and it shoots terribly to the left... I just dry fired it and notice I always jerk the gun when pulling the trigger. its very obvious during dry fire and likely the cause for the issue ///

Now the weird thing is: This does not happen at all with my Gen1!! They have the same backstrap style. The Gen 4 has a 3.4 lbs connector otherwise is stock. the Gen 1 is totally stock.

I am a bit dissapointed that the newer gun shoots worse .. I can spend more time practicing but since it works with the Gen 1 I wonder if it is the gun? is it me?

Should I install a trigger stop? Cant buy them in Canada and have to self make it and rather not as it reduces reliability ... I dont want to go to a full match trigger for $200-300.


What else should I be looking at? (I want to keep the glocks, different brand gun is not an option)


cheers

Matt

I just learned all about this trigger stuff today and I was befuddled to how much you need to change up the way you shoot and that there is like a double shot to it very neat
 
My knowledge on the earlier guns is limited, but to my knowledge the triggers are virtually the same.
That being said, I have a gen 3 19 with an all factory trigger group including the 5.5# connector. I find when I break the shot it breaks straight to the rear when dry firing.
Now, on my gen 4 17, I have the same 3.5# minus connector and find that sometimes, when I’m not doing my part I can’t tend to jerk the gun to the left when the trigger breaks. For me, not really an issue as I don’t shoot bullseye but I can see it being a big problem for you.

My best recommendation, hold off on buying a bunch of triggers and what not. Either pull the connector out of your gen 1/2 17 and put it in your gen 4, or just order a factory 5.5# connector and see if that changes how your gun shoots for you.

The awesome dudes at Blackbox customs even have the part you need in stock right here.
https://shop.blackboxcustoms.com/products/factory-glock-connector-5-5-lbs

An interesting side note about connectors is that they don’t really reduce the pull weight, but more so how the trigger breaks. Some say with the 5.5# connector you feel that fairly consistent wall, where as the 3.5# minus connector feels very spongy (again this is all subjective to the individual) but swapping in a minus connector from a factory one does not reduce the trigger pull by 2 whole pounds.
 
I will switch out the connectors and see what it does ... Originally I thought the lighter connector would be better ... The guns wont be for bullseye anymore but for steel plates but still I cant have it that the thing shoots 4" left at 10m :(

My knowledge on the earlier guns is limited, but to my knowledge the triggers are virtually the same.
That being said, I have a gen 3 19 with an all factory trigger group including the 5.5# connector. I find when I break the shot it breaks straight to the rear when dry firing.
Now, on my gen 4 17, I have the same 3.5# minus connector and find that sometimes, when I’m not doing my part I can’t tend to jerk the gun to the left when the trigger breaks. For me, not really an issue as I don’t shoot bullseye but I can see it being a big problem for you.

My best recommendation, hold off on buying a bunch of triggers and what not. Either pull the connector out of your gen 1/2 17 and put it in your gen 4, or just order a factory 5.5# connector and see if that changes how your gun shoots for you.

The awesome dudes at Blackbox customs even have the part you need in stock right here.
https://shop.blackboxcustoms.com/products/factory-glock-connector-5-5-lbs

An interesting side note about connectors is that they don’t really reduce the pull weight, but more so how the trigger breaks. Some say with the 5.5# connector you feel that fairly consistent wall, where as the 3.5# minus connector feels very spongy (again this is all subjective to the individual) but swapping in a minus connector from a factory one does not reduce the trigger pull by 2 whole pounds.
 
Do a $.25 trigger job on it. I use a 3.5# connector and NY1 spring for a decent trigger feel. Polishing the sh#t out of the contacting bits of the trigger helps a lot
 
Lots of videos on youtube, the adjustment screw is at the top of the trigger and can only be adjusted with the slide off and near the locking block. It comes assembled with trigger bar, they are easy to swap. I got mine a few years ago via brownells, they may have them in Canada now at some shops, but I don't know.

I think the triggers are essentially the same but my Gen1 might be well worn and smooth from it or just by chance better.

Do you know where in Canada I can buy the lone wolf trigger? On the website it is not clear how it works. The pictures show just trigger and the part attached to it but the instructions show a block with set screws ... So I am not sure what it actually allows to adjust
 
The trigger pull in my original Glock (a Gen 2 G17 from 1991) had a much lighter first stage (when the striker safety is being raised) than all of my Gen 3 and later Glocks due to the striker safety return spring being stiffer in those Glocks. I clipped a couple of coils on one of those and it did make a difference—I think replacement springs are easy to find too.
 
I think the main issue is not the trigger ia hard or mushy or anything else Glock but that when the trigger breaks it keeps going too far and that makes the gun jerk ...
 
I did few experiments:

- switched Gen 1 connector to the Gen 4 (it had a stock -)
It feels a little better. more defined trigger release, less jerking

- put the Gen 4 Zev connector in the Gen 1. It got a bit worse but it may be imagination. still is better than the gen 4


- Polished all trigger surfaces and removed burrs.
A bit better. There are more defined points in trigger I can feel rather than a constant mush



All in all the Gen 4 is better to the point where it hardly jerks but I am still not happy. will try it on the range and see if its good enough

I am toying with the idea to just put in a Zev fulcrum but it feels weird to put a $300 trigger in a $600 gun ...
 
I did few experiments:

- switched Gen 1 connector to the Gen 4 (it had a stock -)
It feels a little better. more defined trigger release, less jerking

- put the Gen 4 Zev connector in the Gen 1. It got a bit worse but it may be imagination. still is better than the gen 4


- Polished all trigger surfaces and removed burrs.
A bit better. There are more defined points in trigger I can feel rather than a constant mush



All in all the Gen 4 is better to the point where it hardly jerks but I am still not happy. will try it on the range and see if its good enough

I am toying with the idea to just put in a Zev fulcrum but it feels weird to put a $300 trigger in a $600 gun ...

Now imagine adding an 850 dollar red dot sight, a 500 dollar cerakote job and 1200 bucks worth of milling to a 600 dollar gun.
Hope that makes you feel better, and sorry the connector didn’t totally resolve the issue for you.
I don’t recall off hand but I do believe there is a slight difference in the gen 3 and previous triggers compared to the gen 4 which could be what you’re noticing.
 
OK I will take a shot here. The Gen 4 guns have a bump on the trigger bar that other Gens do not have. With every Gen 4 I have had, I take out the Gen 4 trigger bar and replace it with a Gen 3. That seems to smooth up the trigger and takes that hitch out of the pull on a Gen 4. It also makes the slide easier to put back on when field stripping as it frequently gets caught on that little bump. A Gen3 trigger bar should work fine in a Gen4 pistol as long as the magazine catch is on the normal left side.

Just my .02 cents.
 
Now imagine adding an 850 dollar red dot sight, a 500 dollar cerakote job and 1200 bucks worth of milling to a 600 dollar gun.
Hope that makes you feel better, and sorry the connector didn’t totally resolve the issue for you.
I don’t recall off hand but I do believe there is a slight difference in the gen 3 and previous triggers compared to the gen 4 which could be what you’re noticing.

you have a point ... just ordered a Zev Fulcrum....

you are not helping! hahahaha
 
I did few experiments:

- switched Gen 1 connector to the Gen 4 (it had a stock -)
It feels a little better. more defined trigger release, less jerking

- put the Gen 4 Zev connector in the Gen 1. It got a bit worse but it may be imagination. still is better than the gen 4


- Polished all trigger surfaces and removed burrs.
A bit better. There are more defined points in trigger I can feel rather than a constant mush



All in all the Gen 4 is better to the point where it hardly jerks but I am still not happy. will try it on the range and see if its good enough

I am toying with the idea to just put in a Zev fulcrum but it feels weird to put a $300 trigger in a $600 gun ...
Shoot the heck out of it and you will see an improvement..
 
you have a point ... just ordered a Zev Fulcrum....

you are not helping! hahahaha

What can I say, I’m an enabler. :D

Enjoy the new trigger! I’ve tried and tested most of the after market triggers available and the Zev is the only one I’d spend my money on.
 
What can I say, I’m an enabler. :D

Enjoy the new trigger! I’ve tried and tested most of the after market triggers available and the Zev is the only one I’d spend my money on.

I dont need much ... if the glock trigger did not have a massive overtravel after it breaks it would be perfectly fine. I put some plastic pieces between trigger and trigger housing (what is this even called?) to simulate a trigger stop and it was perfect. no jerking at all. After some dry firing I also got it to the point where it was better, but I did not want to mess around and just got the Zev ...

If this was the US I would have gotten a trigger from Johnny Glock but Zev seems like the next best thing
 
Back
Top Bottom